joester1908

I don't know about the first part, but the connector on the back of the HL switch utilizes the interior wiring harness ground. Under the knee panel on the left hand side of the steering column. The HL wiring harness itself could be the source of your problem or more likely the HL harness connector under the hood. The connector is located on the drivers side, right underneath the factory air filter location. Look for a big black connector. Correct. See Tips 3 and 18 for photos. I went through the tips again and read number 18. Thank you for posting that, huge help. I'll let you guys know how it turns out...Gonna start tomorrow after school

I don't know about the first part, but the connector on the back of the HL switch utilizes the interior wiring harness ground. Under the knee panel on the left hand side of the steering column. The HL wiring harness itself could be the source of your problem or more likely the HL harness connector under the hood. The connector is located on the drivers side, right underneath the factory air filter location. Look for a big black connector. You may be right. I know of the ground you are talking about, that will be the first thing I check. As for that harness, i remember it being a little green in there when i did my Wagoneer swap.

I will check that out. Thank you

I have an XJ Wagoneer header panel, the one with 4 different lights. But they're just stock halogens

I basictally have done that. I don't have the C101, but the plug on the headlight switch and blower switch is new, and both switches themselves are new. As for ground refreshing, I have done that with the dipstick and the braded cable. My question is is there a common ground for both the blower switch and the headlight switch? There is a ground lug on the back side of the headlight switch that does somewhere under the dash, but i put my multi meter on it and it was giving me a good ground.

The grounding system throughout the whole truck is severely inadequate. If you havent already I would strongly recommend upgrading/refreshing all current grounding points and maybe even add a few. Also the bulkhead connector that goes through the fire wall can produce significant resistance if not thoroughly cleaned.

Well I flipped my headlights on and they flickered, then turned off...I gotta check the fuse.

So I have a 1990 Comanche. My heater only worked on 1, (2, 3, and 4 were the same as 1). I replaced the resistor. I also checked the heater switch. The plug was melted, so i replaced the plug and switch. I reassembled everything and almost immediately the dash lights flickered and I popped the fuse. I installed a new fuse, and they did not work, but the fuse didn't pop for a minute or 2. I then pulled the headlight switch. The plug was melted and the switch was heavily corroded. (You can see images on my build thread, I can't attach photos from the school computer). I spliced in a new plug and installed a new headlight switch. It worked for a few days, but yesterday i flicked on the lights, they flickered and turned off. Is there any connection between the heater and the headlight switch? Or is it just coincidece that they both went out at the same time.....if there was something like a common ground could that be giving me issues? I inspected all of the wiring in the dash and behind the heater, and I didn't find any shorts or broken wires. But even if there was a short that shouldn't melt a headlight switch, right? I am planning on doing a relay swap soon enough, but in the mean time I only have headlights, no dash lights or marker lights. I have yet to pull the switch I just installed, but thats the next step. Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys....

Thank you! Glad it's back on the road again

This morning, I went out and tore it all back apart. I had to fix a wire in my air horn switch, and i wanted to figure out why the dome didn't click on. Pulling the cluster gave the best access to my wiring. Ends up the ground on the back of the headlight switch wasn't snapped on. It's all working now

So I got everything working. The plug was completely melted. I got a new headlight switch from CarQuest ($18 after my discount) and I started looking on how to fix the plastic. Yes, this is redneck, but its about the best solution I could come up with. I grabbed a hole saw and cut out the recessed part Drilled a hole in a piece of aluminum, which i made much smaller than this, Painted it black and screwed it to the dash. Then I cut the old plug off, spliced on a new one, and installed the plug. It all worked, except for the dome light doesn't click on when you turn the switch all the way to the left. I had to drive it, so I reassembled and decided to deal with it the next morning.

Well tonight after work I went out to pull my headlight switch. I pushed the button, pulled the plunger out. The switch was very loose in the plastic. I tried to get the retainer off, and the headlight switch fell out of the dash... The plastic around it is all cracked. Great. Then I tried to pull off the plug. Totally corroded. At a loss. Ready to be done working on this thing.

Okay, so my heater only works on 1. 2, 3, and 4 all do the same as 1. So I pulled the resistor. Couldn't tell if it was bad or not, but I did notice corrosion on the coils. So I replaced it. After, my heater switch worked on 1 and 3. 2 and 4 were just like 1. After finding this out, I pulled the switch only to find this: After doing some research, I guess it's pretty common to melt that plug. Thinking back, I've owned a few Renix Cherokees, and multiple have had this issue. Well luckily I saved a good plug off an old wiring harness ' Then I had to drive to an auto part store about a half hour away to get a switch. I really just wanted to get it all done so I could drive it to work Monday. So I put it all together and the switch all worked as it should! Then I installed wiring for my air horn. I put everything back together, turned on my dash lights, and nothing. Got out, no marker lights. :fs1: Right away I knew it had to be a headlight switch. I was already frustrated. This didn't help. Decided to call it a night...

I prepped the driver's side slider for welding, then started working on the passenger slider while my dad continued welding the slider on the drivers side. Another photo on the bottom. I used the factory brackets for the slider. Then I painted the drivers side slider and the entire underside of the truck. Here's the finished product I still want to make a brace on the rear of the slider that goes up to the frame for extra strength. And I haven't even started cutting the passenger side yet, because I need to drive the truck. Hopefully I can get some more work done on it. Once both are completely done, I am considering LINE-X for the sliders. Thoughts?

Ok, so I put a little but of filler in the welds. The thin sheet metal is hard to get a nice weld on against the thick steel. here's a photo from the bottom side. I also did the same cuts to the other fender. I also found the cause of the passenger side water leak Not the prettiest, but it will be hidden under the fender.

We test fit the slider without the fender and it was looking good. So we re-installed the fender and figured out where to bend it I know it looks like the slider is too short, but I'm gonna trim the rear fender to match the other side My dad welded another bolt on for a ground Then I trimmed the rubber inner fender and reinstalled that while my dad did some welding It's pretty difficult to weld the thin sheet metal to the thick slider. Took some improvising but we eventually got it to work The cab is almost all done. But that's all we had time to do tonight. More than likely I won't be able to do much more until next weekend

Testing fitting the metal... Pinch weld cut out Marking the bed. The plan is to cut the bottom off and fold the extra I also ground down this piece of metal, i believe it's for the seatbelt bolt. But it was going to be in the way. I also painted the underside of the rocker Bending the bed Ended up starting to rain, so change of scenery As soon as we started bending the bed, we realized we have to cut the inner fender out Then we ground the primer off the slider where we had to weld.

Thank you! Gonna work on the sliders more today...

Got all the pinch weld cut out I'm using the factory bracket So I have a little bit more clean up work to do tomorrow, then I have to cut and fold the bed. Stay tuned..

My tire has been rubbing on that pinch weld type thing inside the fender. Here's my fix...

So I decided the best way to do it would be to take off the fender....a lot of work but I am such a perfectionist; it has to look good. My dad started cutting... He cut the entire top (below the door) and the front behind the tire, and I did the pinch weld and the back of the cab This channel is inside the rocker panel, and required a Sawzall to cut.

I know, I know it's been a while. I've been busy with school and now that the holidays are over, it's time to get back to work on the Jeep. Besides, I'm tired of stepping over all the metal in my garage! lol So this morning I decided it's time to do my sliders. I have rocker panel damage like this on both sides. To start, i flattened the bottom of the door jam out to make it easier to tape. Then I taped the line where I was going to cut So the plan is to cut the fender and the bed below where the slider is going to be, then fold them on top for strength...I used an angle grinder, and realized how hard it is to make it straight... After taking off that bottom piece, I was going to fold the fender, but the actual rocker panel is directly behind the fender. So I'm gonna have to trim it more...more to come

Worked on the Jeep a bit today. Updated the stickers on the rear window, then continued working on my broken joint... New "X-Flex" joint assembled. Hopefully this one doesn't pop too... Doesn't this look familiar? The threads weren't stripped in the joint, surprisingly. I didn't take a picture of the disk, but it looks just like the other one did. So I unscrewed the old one, measured how far out the nut was, screwed in the new one, put the track bar in and done! Or so I thought... 2 nails. 2 different tires. Luckily the little guy in the tire on the left wasn't leaking. Patched the other one at work, and then finished everything up... Still gotta add some more grease to it. Upon taking apart the old joint, it was bone dry inside. I greased it at least 10 times. I think it's just a poor design and the grease doesn't get around in there like it should. Luckily, I decided to pre-grease the new ones. Next up (which should be not next weekend, but the weekend after) Is gonna be cutting out my rockers and welding in the 2x6 :thumbsup: Stay tuned...

Thank you! My uncle is driving up from California next week and my dad and I are going to install a lift on his JK. So I need my Jeep on the road until then, because we are going wheeling sunday. After that, the rockers are getting cut!

Here's a photo of that lower "X Flex" that popped Rough Country sent me a replacement, so that's gonna be installed today, but the MJ is still dirty from Walker Valley, so yesterday it got a well needed bath Here's the new joint. I couldn't find the tool you use to tighten it, the 4x4 shop was kind enough to give me one :thumbsup: