dragonrider477

thanks for the detailed info.my mj was d35-3.07 open when i got it.even with the short 205-75-15 tires it was terrible.5th gear was for downhill runs only.i cannibalized the 3:55 posi internals from the xj last fall and transplanted the parts into the mj housing.btw,the xj was c-type and the mj was'nt.everything went together ok despite the mismatch and after about 5k miles it's still ok.i suppose i could put the aw4/transfer case combo in the mj and leave the rest of the 4x4 stuff off.other than the extra weight of the t/case,i would'nt see any problems.if i did that,it seems all that i would need would be a mj long box specific 4x4 rear driveshaft.if i decided at a later time to finish the 4x4 conversion,i would have a jump start on it.just out of curiousity,would i be able to use low range to the rear end without a front drive hooked up? i'm just thinking if i needed extra torque to pull something at low speed(assuming i could get the traction),i would have the extra pulling power.if so,would the d-35 explode with the extra "juice" being sent down the d-shaft?

wow,talk about finding a needle in a haystack!!!a new 2.1 diesel motor for 75 bucks!!with that kind of luck i would have had to buy 10 lotto tickets(theyd be sure winners!) and find the prettiest girl in town and ask her out on a date.(of course she would say yes and pay for the dinner and movie!!!

well,i also like white on mj's but i understand if you are bored with it.how about a screaming corvette yellow!that will wake it up!and you won't have any problem finding it in a crowded mall parking lot.just don't rob a bank with it,that color stands out and they would nab you quick!.

my 88 mj 4.0,4x2 5 speed trans is on the way out(no big surprise huh?).i would like to swap in an automatic when it finally pukes.the trans is still working but i feel it only has maybe 10,000 miles left before it grenades(if i don't beat on it).this should give me plenty of time to get all the needed parts rounded up and make this a late summer project after the weather cools off a bit.i have an 88 xj 4x4,4.0,aw4 that has a lot of the parts i will need.what will be different,that is,what will i need to get for this swap that i won't be able to use from the xj? will i need to use the renix ecm from the xj or can i still use my present one?will the aw4 computer out of the xj work ok in the manche?how much of the wiring harness will i have to change? i am not interested in making the mj 4x4 as my yj fills that need just fine. i want to make this as simple as possible and keeping it 4x2 is simpler!btw,the mj is the long wb.

mine was broken when i got my 89 too. the spare was in the bed. i found a piece of retangular scrap steel,driled a hole in the center,ran the cable through it and attached a couple of hardware store cable clamps to the cable end.total cost about 2 bucks.my spare now rides where it is supposed to.under the bed.

have a chance to buy a mint '96 xj 4 door with a connecting rod sticking out of the block.i have a 93 or 94 xj with a 4.0 ho for parts.can i use the engine or the block from the older xj in the '96? both are aw4 auto 4x4.if the parts will work,will the obdII emission system be ok with the older stuff?i don't want a rig with a check engine lite on that i can't fix due to a bad mix of parts.thanks.

4x4 is a hub assembly only.it is not repairable.also,don't use the cheap ball joints. they have too much friction when you turn so your steering will be "sticky" which will cause a lot of road wander.use the napa premium or moog premium.these quality aftermarket ones are at least as good as original or better.also,make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the hub nut.(180 ft lbs i think).the wrong tightness on the hub nut will seriously shorten hub life.one other thing...when you go to put the axle back in,roll up some sheets of printer paper(kinda like a tube) and insert into the axle tube. this will keep all the crud thats been laying in there for years from being dragged in to the seal area at the diff end by the splined end of the axle.the last thing you want is to have to change that inner seal.no fun!!! btw,if you can't get the paper out don't fret.leave it in there.i've used this trick dozens of times and have had no problems.

when i worked as a tech in upstate ny we replaced hundreds of rusted brake lines a year.also fuel lines,tranny, cooler lines,oil pans,tranny pans,rear end covers,gas tanks,etc.we stocked a huge inventory of brake lines as well as a huge assortment of fittings and adaptors.even with all that we still ended up in a lot of cases custom making lines because the factory used some goofy thread on a fitting that we could'nt get.we would have to take the old fitting off the rusted line(not easy) and reuse it on the new one.one thing i liked was the lines we bought from napa were coated with some hard as a rock black paint that would keep the new lines you installed mint for years. the old style uncoated lines we used to use would only last 1-2 years especially if it was a plow truck that sat a lot.the coated line only costs pennies more than the crap line so it's a no brainer.use the good stuff.if your local napa does'nt have the coated line he can get it at his warehouse for you.when i moved to e. tennessee this year i started looking for a nice mj and found one during a ride in the country.the truck was bought new in alabama and ended up in tn .about 5 years ago.when i crawled under the truck to inspect the underside i almost passed out.it looked like a 2007 model underneath.at that point i knew i would buy it. i did'nt care if it ran or if the trans was shot or anything else(everything was ok though).and my brake lines are original and mint!!!i don't miss all the rust problems from the frozen north and i feel your pain when you have to fix that stuff up there.happy wrenchin'.

thanks for the info.its off to the junkyard we go!!

bought one of those ebay heavy duty reciever hitches last month.just put it on and it is perfect fit and easy to install. came with all hardware and bolts.only fits mj's with factory step bumper as it bolts up to bottom of bumper.(as well as to the frame on both sides where bumper brackets bolt on)now i can get a bigger boat!!!

my stock radio speakers are hosed. what size are they and where is the best place to get new ones?i don't need speakers that will vibrate the paint off the car parked next to me. just something that doesnt sound so crappy like the 20 year old ones in my truck.

what do i need to do this?what year stuff will fit?is my truck "pre-wired" for any of this?