dinghyboy

It's a stretch, but the last time I had my valve cover off, I must have somehow leaned on the distributor cap and cracked it badly enough to push a terminal down into the path of the rotor. When I went to start it, it cracked the rotor. After searching for this and that, I noticed the cap was cracked, took it off and was able to spin the rotor by hand. Replaced rotor and cap and she fired. I know it's a long shot, but look at your cap and rotor. Good Luck.

Thanks Skidoo. Those are excellent instructions.

I have to replace the rear shoes and wheel cylinders. The existing brake fluid is a nasty brown color so it is probably time to change it. The truck is a 92 with the stock compensating valve at the rear under the bed. I've seen all sorts of comments on here about how this can be tricky to bleed the brakes and get it right. Can someone give me a failsafe way to keep the original distribution block (at the front) and rear compensating valve and bleed the brakes properly. Thanks Gavin

Geo: there are 4 ebay links in his message. Never seen that before on this site. Gavin

only suggestion I'll add is to place it all together before you go clamping anything. The PO on mine had cobbled a system together and it rubbed the frame over the rear axle. I went with Walker products also and ended up buying a new cat to replace the existing one to get the system to line up properly. Without it the hangers wouldn't line up properly. Good Luck Gavin

Bump. Still hoping one will show up. Thanks!

If you end up changing your mind and getting a different sending unit, I'll buy the 91-92 HO unit from you. Mine is leaking and so far no response to the wanted request in the classifieds. Thanks

Bump. Still no luck. Thanks

Bump - - - Anybody?

Truck is a 1992 Long wheel base 4.0L. From what others have said I will have to use a sensor/pump assembly from either a 1991 or 1992 if I want it to be plug and play. Please PM me and let me know if you have one available and how much. I need to scrape the sealant off mine and see what is going on with the leak but I'm fairly sure I'll need a replacement and want to make sure there is one out there before I destroy this one. Thanks Gavin

Whenever I fill up the tank, i get a gas leak at the sender unit. I crawled under there expecting to see a bad seal; instead I found this. It looks like the sender has had a leak at where the wires enter the unit. I'm wondering if anyone has seen this sort of failure before and if it's a normal and/or repairable failure? If not and I have to replace the unit, are all the senders the same. This is on a 1992 4.0L long bed. Would earlier years and shortbed senders be the same thing? Thanks for any insight. I know I could scrape of the sealant the PO put on to see what's going on, but then I couldn't drive the truck if I screwed it up. For the moment, I'll just keep it below 1/2 full until I can get a replacement. Thanks Gavin

1992, 4WD auto. Stock height. When I bought the truck, it had 255/70-15 tires on it. They are old and a mismatched group. As others have noted, they rub (probably on the control arms) at full lock. Since my 2 daughters drive the truck pretty often I'm considering replacing the tires. I've come across a set of used Uniroyal Laredos for a good price that are in decent shape and already mounted on jeep wheels. They are 235/75-15. I seem to remember that others have commented that this tire size will not rub. Is that correct? Thanks for your help

Thank you all for your help. I'm thrilled to say she's running again and embarrassed to say I probably screwed it up to begin with. I had spark at the coil and had about 9 volts at the input on the distributor connector. The CPS tested just fine with a resistance test. . So what did I screw up? I had the valve cover off and it's quite possible that while I was scraping off the oil sludge from the valve train, I may have put my weight on the distibutor cap. One of the terminals was broken loose and the rotor button was broken into three pieces. The result was that when I cranked the engine the rotor wasn't spinning. Put on a new rotor button and distibutor cap and she'd good to go. Just as a precaution, I did wiggle the distributor shaft but it seemed tight. Thanks again for your input. I learned something from your help. Gavin

1992 4.0l Auto 4WD Went to start the truck. It cranked for 1/2 a second then nothing. no lights, no radio, no buzzers, nothing at all. Disconnected the battery and cleaned terminals and now have all electrics working. Truck will crank over but will not fire. I had disconnected the battery for some other work and had just placed the positive cable back on without tightening the clamp. Disconnected the fuel lines at the fuel rail. When I turn the key to ignition, i get a pulse of gas, then when I crank the motor, it has fuel flow. Pulled plug wire number one and cranked the engine and there s NO spark at no.1 cylinder. Reconnected Plug 1 and tried same test on cylinder 6, same result, no spark. I have tested all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse block and have continuity across all the fuses, none are blown. I switched the starter relay and the fuel pump relays in the fuse box and same results. Where do I look next. IS there an ignition fuse somewhere I'm missing? Just for full disclosure, I had just replaced the valve cover gasket and the truck started after that. Then I installed a wiring harness with relays and 2 Halogen headlamps. The lights worked after installation with no apparent problems. Was starting the truck to pull out of the garage when the problems started. Appreciate all insight. Gavin

Thanks for everyone's input. From the comments, it seems like dropping the oil pan and cleaning it, then running Rotella with either seafoam (short period) or Marvel Mistery oil (maybe 1000 miles) would be the way to go. So you do not think I will need to remove the Timing chain cover and clean there. Right? I have already plugged the push rod holes and cleaned the top of the cylinder head to get all the cunky parts off.

Thanks for answering the questions I've been posting the past few days, now here is why I was asking. I was trying to address oil leaks and removed my valve cover to replace the gasket and found some rather bothersome Oil sludge. I plugged the push rod holes and scraped off what I could access. My plan now is to pull the oil pan and clean that out and install a new rear main seal and pan gasket. while I'm in there I've been advised to check the timing chain slack and rectify if needed. I'll also replace the crank case ventilation components since the were sludged solid. My question to those who know more about this engine, is should I also remove the timing chain cover to remove sludge in that area. It seems the valve train sludge is sort of common but I haven't heard anyone mention sludge under the timing chain cover. After it's all back together I'll probably add some Marvel Mistery Oil or Auto-RX and do repetitive oil changes for the next several thousand miles hoping that the additives will clean out any oil passage sludge. Appreciate any input.

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put picture here http://s1162.beta.photobucket.com/user/dinghyboy/library/Comanche

May be a dumb question, but better my pride suffers than the axle tube.. Truck is a 4WD 4.0L automatic. I need to raise the front of the truck to work underneath. To date I have only jacked up one side at a time with the floor jack and yes, I use stands when under the truck. Can the front be lifted up by jacking in the middle of the front axle tube or do I risk bending the axle tube. Is there a better place to position the jack to raise the front end. Floor jack is a 3 ton high lift model so no problem with capacity or height. May be a dumb question, but better my pride suffers than the axle tube.. Thanks

Just to show my ignorance. When you drop the oil pan, is the timing chain exposed? I would have thought I'd have to remove the timing cover to see that. How you check the slop in the timing chain. Do you just check to see if it's loose on the lower gear? Thanks

It looks like I need to remove my oil pan. I have seen several posts implying there may be a clearance issue in getting the pan off if the truck still has original suspension height. One post had mentioned a method to do it, but now I can't find the post. I know to raise the truck and support it by the frame and let the axle hang down, what else do I have to do? Thanks for any guidance.

I have read a number of the posts on the CCv system but the problem I'm having is that the part numbers listed seem to be for 1987-1990 jeeps. I've been to the websites for NAPA, Advance and Rock Auto and did not see any listings for the hoses and connectors for a 1992 4.0L. Does anyone know the part numbers or even a parts store that has them or are they dealer only. I appreciate any advice. My hoses have all deteriorated and the rear valve cover connector was blocked solid. There is a solid 1/8 to 1/4 inch of sludge over all the valves, springs, rockers and any surface under the valve cover. I don't think I've ever seen an engine with this bad a layer of build up. Thanks for the help. Gavin 1994 Comanche base 4/0L A/T 4WD

Don't think the link worked for the source. Can you tell me which Cat you puchased (brand/ part #). My 92 looks like it has a non stock cat and a straight pipe in place of the muffler pushing the stock exhaust tailpipe back about 6 inches and causing some unique rubbing noises that temporarily drown out the drone from the lack of muffler. I'd like to go back to a stock cat and muffler and have everything back where it should be. Thanks Gavin 92 Base 4.0

Thanks. Appreciate all the effort and the input from all members

I don't think it did. I know the taillgihts were gone. I reallly wish I knew what happened to the pictures. Sorry!