Garvin

The linkage is the same between combos, the only dfiference is the rod length. The AW4 rod is about an inch longer due to the transmission being about an inch longer than the AX5 and AX15. The AX15 linkage past the first rod is the same between the Cherokee, Comanche and Wrangler. The shifter and first rod are different on the Wrangler due to the floor design if anyone was curious. I haven't found the linkage yet but I'm pretty sure I have one. Used to know where it was until I cleaned up...

Where in NJ are you btw? Not sure how far you're willing to drive, or what your price range is, but I'm heading to Scranton soon to pickup a truck and could bring the roll bar with me if I take a truck to trailer it home rather than just ride the bus out and drive it back. If the truck doesn't sell soon and I pull it, you pay shipping costs and you can borrow them. Unless 86_mj there buys it of course. If it doesn't sell, I'd be interested in borrowing them as well if you don't mind. Would only need them for a weekend to make a replica set but would finally have them in there supporting my roll bar. Might make a few sets if they're easy enough if anyone else would be interested in them.

I might have one set of linkage kicking around still, I'll check later tonight. If I don't get back to you by the end of tonight, send me a PM. It's probably because I didn't have a chance to get back online.

GirsMJ86: I'm a bit of a pack rat when it comes to Comanche parts that I really don't want to let these go. If you're looking to sell yours, I might be interested though. Thanks for the link sparTruck. The seats are only a bit better than mine are right now, would look the same in the next year of use unfortunately. Kkilmer87: Thanks for the offer. I have a full console already, went to a mini console due to my custom transfer case linkage. I really didn't want to cut up my full center console as it was in great condition. Probably should have clarified it a bit more but looking for buckets, don't need the brackets though. From a bit more research, I also need a dash from '84-'86 to bolt right in and hook right up to the current harness, already pieced the TPI and Comanche one together and don't really feel like rewiring plus there were some differences in the firewall for the dash support, curious if the dash is the same also? As for the X emblems, how much is a pretty penny and what condition are they in?

Thanks for the pics. I was planning on putting just the 350 on the back side of the cowl, kinda hidden but kinda visible (main reason for the red color). I'll have to definitely look into those ones though but would have to find a nice place to put them. I actually currently have 5 of those older full caps COMANCHE emblems, I can't seem to find a pair of the newer ones at junk yards for my '92 even though they're more common! lol

I'm in no real rush for these but figured I'd put this out there in case someone has one. I'm sure the list will grow over time but this is the current one. Maroon dash ('84-'86 pref) Maroon bucket seats (mainly need drivers side) Maroon mini console X emblem that goes on fender Red Chevy "350" emblems I'm located in Wrightstown, NJ. The larger items would be better if they were closer due to shipping, have no issue paying the actual shipping cost on the others though.

That much flex sure looks nice for a mall crawler but is useless once the spring comes off the perch (many will argue before that happens but that's always a nice and easy spot to point out). Looks like a single triagulated setup from the picture with the uppers triangulated, looks kinda close on the minimum angle that you reall want on it though.

mvusse pointed that out and you guys are correct, not sure why I was thinking DW. Probably because I'm still hunting the DW issue down in my Jeep...

Which side the heim is on doesn't matter so much as the bend in the track bar. The rubber is just there to isolate the body from the road to make for a slightly smoother and quieter ride even though I don't notice a difference with heims on both ends of mine. I'd also stay away from grade 5 bolts with a bolt as small as 7/16". While it's most likely plenty strong, catastrophic damage and injury can happen if that bolt fails. I went a little on the over kill though with 5/8" grade 8 bolts. :yes:

Just make sure you match the drop of the track bar bracket to the pitman arm also or you will get horrible death wobble.

As long as you buy the 84-96 ones then they will fit with no real mods besides the hinge as I believe the Warrior ones use a rod to fit into the frame side hinge (been a while since I looked at them though).

Make sure you take a real close look at where the thread ends on the manifold (where the O2 sensor starts to thread into) as I've seen many threads that look good yet they were screwed up just enough at the end where it wouldn't catch the sensors threads. If both the sensor and manifolds threads are good then it should go in when you get the correct angle. Auto parts stores (atleast the ones around me) do sell an O2 sensor thread chaser to clean up the threads in the manifold.

That's one hell of a list, hope you got that Jeep for cheap. A lot of those parts can be found at junkyards for fairly cheap. I usually buy the new parts from Advance Auto Parts, I order online using their coupons and pickup in store but you can get them to ship to your house. If the passenger door lock assembly is the tumbler (the thing you put the key in) then you might be better off either getting a used one and rekeying it or getting yours fixed. I have yet to find a company that sells the correct tumblers for the Renix era Jeeps.

I don't know too much about the RC track bar but if the heim has a shank (same as the heim in the picture) then all you need to know is the width of the mounting and shank size/thread pitch and can replace it with any heim that matches. I'm running Barnes4wd heims on both ends of my panhard bar and haven't had any issues with them.

With an 8" lift, you will want to do a drop track bar bracket and will have to go to a flex or rubber bushing at the frame end as the tie rod will be maxed with the stock bracket. You will then want to get a drop pitman arm based on the size of the drop track bar bracket to keep everything in line. When I had an 8" lift on my Cherokee, I had a 3" drop track bar bracket and 3" drop pitman arm on it. That's about the max drop you can get with aftermarket Cherokee arms. Other aftermarket arms might give more than that but I ended up going to one tons and high steer before really looking any further into those and now am running a stock WJ arm (1" longer but not as much drop).