Reverse lights and Cruise now working!!!

[87MJTIM]

Reverse lights:

 

"A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away..." No, wait a minute.

 

"It was twenty years ago today..."  That's not it either.

 

A while ago, the wiring for my reverse lights close to the transmission switch contacted the exhaust pipe and melted the wires.  I tried using the heat shrink connectors with the small bit of solder inside.  The solder did not melt very well and the connector finally separated.  I discovered this when backing up one day and noticed in a window behind me that the rev. lights were not on.  After multiple tests - lights, connectors at the rear, tracing back to the transmission - I determined it was my crappy soldering connectors.  To fixed it and the botched  soldering job, I used U-shaped copper ring connectors and heat shrink tubing.  (Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Tnisesm-Terminals-shrinkable-Electricity-Automotive/dp/B0CSFDT5CS/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis?th=1)  Now my reverse lights work. 

 

Cruise control:

 

My cruise control has not worked for YEARS.  I have looked everything over for years trying to determine why it wasn't working.  It had me stumped.  Once every year, I would try again without any luck...until now!!

 

I want to send a thanks out to @Eaglescout526 for sending me a AM-PC-1-R tester.  Also, if anyone else is have trouble with their CC, I highly recommend going to NAXJA.org.  TJMotter has an excellent write up on testing the CC on a Renix MJ/XJ.  Link: https://naxja.org/threads/how-to-test-repair-renix-era-cruise-control.1160060/

 

After performing all the recommended tests - most all repeatedly - I found two problems with my CC.  First, the vacuum dump valve at the brake pedal was not pushed in all the way.  The system was not holding vacuum.  This one issue probably arose long ago when I had brake work done.

 

The second issue I found was the ground wire to the engine block was frayed and not getting a good connection.  I discovered this when performing one of the recommended tests for resistance on the ground wire.  I had 24 Ohms when it should be 0 Ohms.  (I am sure Cruiser is looking down on me saying "I told you to check and update the grounds.")

 

Test drove it and it worked.  

 

A new problem - but a nice problem - is when I set the CC, the truck accelerates by about 7 mph above my set speed.  It will hold that speed for a mile +/-, then it will gradually start to drop to the set speed.

 

But that's a problem for another day.

[eaglescout526]

Heck yeah!!! That little cartridge comes in handy. I really should look into getting that reproduced in some fashion.