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4wd Conversion Checklist


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Hey all! Long time lurker of CC and already have learn a TON from you guys. Very excited owner of my 1st Comanche.

 

Have a few questions for my build. I currently have a bone stock 88 2wd 2.5l 4 speed SWB Comanche that I'm slowly trying to restore/upgrade. This model is from what I understand as basic model as you can get.

 

Last week I picked up a sweet deal on and ax5/np231 out of a yj that had very similar mileage to my jeep. I was able to re clock the tcase and stab the assembly under my jeep. Had to cut my rear driveshaft down about 10.25" to make it fit. Transmission works great so far and it's nice be able to have an extra highway gear (even though it's not absolutely necessary for the 2.5l). Also to note my jeep has a Dana 35 with a tag saying it has 3.55 gear ratio.

 

Anyways I'm now in the market for a Dana 30 w/ 3.55 gear ratio, front driveshaft and shifter linkage to complete the 4wd conversion.

My question is if I pick up a Dana 30 from an xj and snag the front driveshaft as well will the length fit to mine? I have a u-pull next to me in Denver that usually has a decent amount of xjs that I plan on grabbing this stuff but I want to make sure it'll work for my setup. Do I need to be concerned if the xj has an automatic trans vs manual? Or if it has the 4.0l vs 2.5l? Or if it has a np242 vs np231? Does this effect the length of the front driveshaft?

 

Also I plan on snatching up the shifting linkage off an xj as well because the tcase was off a yj and the shifting linkage is different. We're there any variants of the shifting linkage for the np231 in the xjs/mjs that I need to pay attention to? 

 

Also on a side note is there a market for a used ax4 and a 2wd solid front axle? Both are in good condition and Ill have no use for them once I finish the conversion and make sure everything works.

 

I appreciate any help!

 

 

 

 

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the handle is the same, the body-side pivot bracket should be the same (someone correct me if I'm wrong there), the links themselves are adjustable and so will likely work, but the trans-side pivot bracket on the AW4 is not the same as the bracket on an AX-5.  :(  so you'll want to track one down.

 

 

but you can skip all this and get the aftermarket t-case shifter instead. :D 

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Agreed! That's kind of what I've been deciding. I'm wondering if it worth trying to pick up a Chrysler 8.25 and Dana 30 together and then regearing. It's just a lot more involved and I would have to modify the spring perches while I'm at it. On the other hand I really don't want to put any money into the Dana 35 :sad2:

 

I'm think about running the Dana 35 and 30 with 3.55 on the stock tires for awhile before I plan to put a mild lift and some bigger tires and THEN put in a better rear end and rear gear :shhh:

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3 hours ago, Pete M said:

guys seem to be happy with the Azzy one. :L:  gotta ask Azzy to be sure if it's universal for the 2.5 and 4.0, but I think it is.

I'm not 100% positive on that statement, Pete... In my case (1988 2wd 2.5, 5-speed) I went with a TJ AX5 and a 242. I clocked the t-case as the OP also did. I first bought the Rusty's linkage, which is the same type as Azzy's, and also was "universal"... It didn't work because the 4 cylinder doesn't sit in the engine bay in the same spot as a 4.0 liter, so the transmission sits further forward as does the t-case. Because of that, the t-case's selector arm sits pretty much right below the 4x4 shifter, making it darn near impossible to link the two together and make it work properly. I got tired messing with it so I finally bought a Novak cable shifter to save myself the headache. For the same reasons, I had a 4.0 front driveshaft that I had to shorten. So safest bet is to start with 4 cylinder 4x4 parts if possible.

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22 minutes ago, OldSch88L said:

 I got tired messing with it so I finally bought a Novak cable shifter to save myself the headache. For the same reasons, I had a 4.0 front driveshaft that I had to shorten. So safest bet is to start with 4 cylinder 4x4 parts if possible.

How do you like the Novak cable shifter? Any complications with it? 

 

I figured the front driveshaft would be a different lengths between the 2.5 vs 4.0 but wasn't 100% sure. The only problem is it's a lot harder to find 4x4 2.5l than the 4x4 4.0l. Well at least at the junkyard that's local to me it is. I might still just grab one out of a 4.0l and get it cut to length though :dunno: 

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14 minutes ago, AverageJoe10 said:

How do you like the Novak cable shifter? Any complications with it? 

 

I figured the front driveshaft would be a different lengths between the 2.5 vs 4.0 but wasn't 100% sure. The only problem is it's a lot harder to find 4x4 2.5l than the 4x4 4.0l. Well at least at the junkyard that's local to me it is. I might still just grab one out of a 4.0l and get it cut to length though :dunno: 

Overall, I love it. It's expensive, but it's a quality piece, so can't really complain there. It's only shortcoming is also it's strong point: lots of adjustability, which is why it's truly universal. It just takes a bit of time and trial and error to fine-tune the adjustment to your needs.

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19 minutes ago, AverageJoe10 said:

How do you like the Novak cable shifter? Any complications with it? 

 

I figured the front driveshaft would be a different lengths between the 2.5 vs 4.0 but wasn't 100% sure. The only problem is it's a lot harder to find 4x4 2.5l than the 4x4 4.0l. Well at least at the junkyard that's local to me it is. I might still just grab one out of a 4.0l and get it cut to length though :dunno: 

And by the way, now would be the right time to consider what you want to do suspension-wise, before you commit to have custom driveshafts made...

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Good to know about the Novak kit. I think that's my better option as the Azzy kit is currently out of stock anyways. 

 

As far as the driveshafts lengths via lift I really only plan to raise it a few inches. Max I would go is 3" of lift. I talked to the driveshaft guy near me who cut my rear driveshaft and he was saying if I was only going to raise it a few inches the stock driveshafts will work fine. I don't plan on doing any heavy off-roading with it so I'm not too worried about over flexing, having driveshafts over extend or popping out at the slip yoke  

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I can confim the Azzy kit don't work on  2.5. 

 

youll also need a 4wd speedo cable. The t case shifter already has the hole in the floor, youll need to uncover and take the cover off. The indents are on the tunnel for the body side bracket that will need to be installed. Youll need to drill them out to accept the bracket. Your existing console should work too, youll just pop out the coin cup and install the shifter cover. 

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4 minutes ago, dasbulliwagen said:

I can confim the Azzy kit don't work on  2.5. 

 

youll also need a 4wd speedo cable. The t case shifter already has the hole in the floor, youll need to uncover and take the cover off. The indents are on the tunnel for the body side bracket that will need to be installed. Youll need to drill them out to accept the bracket. Your existing console should work too, youll just pop out the coin cup and install the shifter cover. 

Are there any alternatives for the 2.5 if the Azzy kit doesn't work?

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21 minutes ago, JYau said:

Are there any alternatives for the 2.5 if the Azzy kit doesn't work?

 

The factory linkage or some form of cable aftermarket kit is all I know about. You might try to look at a TJ Wrangler t case shifter. I'm pretty sure they are cable actuated, but you'd need a case mounted bracket from a TJ to hold the cable as well, and maybe even the case shifter arm itself. I've never heard of that conversion being done, so it's purely just an idea. If you're not good at fabricating things then it may not matter anyways. 

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27 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

Interesting. Too long? Too short? 

 

It has to do with the position of the linkage. The 6 cylinder, the case is farther back,thus giving space for the azzys rod, on the 2.5 the linkage is right under the shifter, and the rod can not be installed. I tried. I ended up selling the Azzy kit I bought. 

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2 hours ago, dasbulliwagen said:

I ended up selling the Azzy kit I bought. 

I assume you're still running the factory linkage? I'm debating whether getting the Novak kit or trying to piece something together with other factory linkage. I didn't realize the Novak kit is priced a little under $200 :eek: and I remember installing one on a tj several years ago for a customer and it was a real pain in the a$$ to adjust.

 

For that price I'd rather fabricate something with junkyard xj linkage. Most of the ones I run into are 4.0l so I know they are different but maybe something will work :dunno:

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