[Renix] EGR Tube Fix

[Parei_doll_ia]

I installed Pacesetter headers back in 2019, and when I pulled the stock headers out, I discovered they were cracked in 2 places and the EGR tube had rusted away to nothing on the exhaust side. Since I didn't have to worry about emissions in Ohio, I blocked it off and had no issues. Now that I'm finishing school and accepted a job in CA, I needed to figure out a way to fix it. First I tried a used one I found on Ebay. I found out the hard way that the Pacesetter's bung is in a slightly different spot than it's supposed to be, and I couldn't get the tube to fit and ended up destroying it. Then I came across this Miata EGR reroute and figured I could make this work on the Comanche. https://miatafied.com/projects/posts/engine/flexible-egr-tube-reroute/#comment-4322

 

Parts needed:

1. 2x m22 male to 1/2 npt female adapters https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/m22-12-npt-steel-thread-adapter.html

2. 12" flexible gas line https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-ProCoat-1-2-in-FIP-x-1-2-in-MIP-x-12-in-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Connector-5-8-in-O-D-180-000-BTU-CSSC54-12/205217437

3. 1/2 npt male 90deg elbow https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QLD8ZJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4. high temp exhaust sealant https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-80335

Optional: 3/4" heat sheath for the fuel line. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010403 (It is closer to the lines and I had the fuel system open to replace the manifold gasket, so I added some insulation to be safe) 

 

Step 1: Remove the paint from the gas line. Aircraft paint remover works great, and I soaked the ends in some MEK that I had left over from painting my truck to get the paint out of the flares. If you have the stock tube, mock it up close to what you'll need to make it easier to install.

 

Step 2: Remove the air box to gain access, install the intake m22 adapter with the O-ring it comes with, since that shouldn't get too hot.

Install the exhaust side adapter and fittings with some of the sealant on the threads.

Install the flare nuts without sealant or just some antiseize. They're flared, so they don't need it and should be easier to remove later down the road without it. 

 

Step 3: Let the sealant dry for 30 minutes, then run at idle for 10 and leak check. Open the EGR valve with a flathead and the truck should sound like it's going to stall.

 

We'll see how long it holds up now. I have a 2300 mile drive ahead of me soon, so that should be a good test. I'm keeping the plugs on me just in case though.

[big66440]

COOL! Let us know how it works out for you, I have a Doug Thorley tri Y header I've been thinking about installing but haven't exactly because of this reason!!. By the way welcome to California! which part will you be moving to?

[Parei_doll_ia]

14 hours ago, big66440 said:

COOL! Let us know how it works out for you, I have a Doug Thorley tri Y header I've been thinking about installing but haven't exactly because of this reason!!. By the way welcome to California! which part will you be moving to?

It seems good so far. I'm going to San Diego, don't know exactly when yet

[AVjeeper]

Awesome idea. Thanks for sharing. I need to do this on 89' Cherokee.

How long has the flex gas line lasted for you?

Passed smog?

 

Much obliged,

AVjeeper

[Salvagedcircuit]

Wow. This is a pretty neat idea. I had to source a used egr tube on ebay because the captive nuts on mine dissolved.