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NEW TO THE CLUB!


JEEPERZ
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Hey everyone,

I just bought myself a jeep comanche two weeks ago. Ive been on this site a ton trying to firgure the thing out. what i know so far about the truck

 

1990 sport 4x4

4.0l-rebuilt 2 months ago (with paperwork!)

D30 front D35 rear

3" pixie? lift in front-AAL rear

28x10.5x15 radials

a few dents here and there-some minor rust on the floorboards and a dead mouse under the mat. still haven't removed it yet.

I ordered a new power steering pump. (loud and leaky)

4x4 won't engage-looks to be a vacuum issue-ordered new vacuum switch-hope thats it!!

i also ordered new suspension bushings for the front-the power steering leak destroyed alot of them and the rest are just really old.

 

I'm glad i found this site, i appreciate all the info ive been able to find here.

dan

 

:cheers:

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Welcome to the club! Make sure you get your stickers from Pete :brows:

 

I would have tried to fix your pump before getting a new one. My 88 XJ leaked a little and whined very loud, and also got to needing to be revved above 2k to work.

 

So I spent the 8 bucks on the Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, and I poured it in(while running) and instantly the whine went away, and I could turn the wheel with one finger at idle. Stopped leaking too.

 

For the 4x4, I think you can bypass the switch, so that the axle disconnect is always engaged. They ended up just doing away with that setup anyway. I have a D30 from a 94 XJ on my truck and it doesnt even have the Disconnect.

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yea, i went a little crazy at first. i also bought a new steering gear box that ill probly return. I'm very interested in bypassing the switch. how would i go about that and is it still ok to drive on the street if the axle disconnect is engaged all the time? right now to get it into 4x4 i have to put it in 4, then pull a vacuum hose off the acutator.

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I'm not entirely sure how the bypass works, but if you have to pull a vacuum hose to get it to engage, then just leave the hose off all the time, and cap the actuator so nothing gets in there. When you put it into 2wd in the cab, the transfer case will disengage from the front axle, then you have nothing to worry about.

 

And yes, having the axle itself engaged all the time will be fine. All that's there for is to slightly reduce rotating mass while driving in 2wd. Seems like just one more thing to break to me.

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or you can pull the CAD motor and shim the shift fork over with some flat washers, a hose clamp, or whatever else you can find that'll work. Here's mine with the washer method:

Jeff

 

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