Replacing switch trim covers (instructions)

[ghetdjc320]

Apologies if this is in the wrong section. Please move it if needed. Just wanted to reference an installation guide for those who are replacing your switch trim covers with the new replacements. 
 

It’s fairly straight forward to install but here is a step by step:

1. Remove dash trim. There are a couple of screws just above the gauge cluster and a few others that will need to be removed. The bezel itself pops off once the screws are removed. 
2. Remove the existing switch holder. (You can skip this step if you don’t have an existing switch holder and will be installing a new one) Each switch holder will have one screw and two tabs holding it in.

3. Using a thin metal instrument like a razor blade or utility knife, gently remove the switch trim cover from the switch holder. The cover is held on with adhiesive from the factory. Here is a pic for reference:

 

4. Optional: clean up the switch housing. Would also recommend cleaning up the blank face of the switch housing for proper installation of the new cover.

 

5. Test fit your new switch cover. Do not glue it down yet! You want to get an idea how it’s going to align on the housing. The switch cutouts need to be lined up As close as possible with the housing. This will ensure that the symbols are fully illuminated by the backlighting. Here is what that looks like:

This alignment is crucial for the for proper oem appearance and illumination.

 

TIP: align the switch trim cover switch cutouts with the plastic switch base. Each panel has been tested to align with the switch cutouts. If they are aligned well then everything else will line up just fine. 

 

6. Glue the switch cover onto the switch holder. I specifically opted not to include the factory trim tabs for alignment. After testing them on different housings it became obvious that the moldings are not always 100% identical. I recommend using a gel type super glue. Place small dots of glue on the switch holder as shown:

 

NOTE: be very careful not to use too much glue so that it doesn’t squeeze out when installed. If any glue gets on the face of the switch cover it may ruin it and be almost impossible to remove without damaging it. 
 

NOTE #2: Spray adhesives such as 3M “45” or “Super 77” among others also work well but don’t let you play around with alignment very much. The most critical aspect is making sure not to get any adhesive on the front of the cover. The back of the switch covers is a poly material that is fairly safe using a wide range of adhesives. 
 

The gel type super glue gives a few seconds handling time. As soon as you set the cover on, check and align the symbols so they are fully visible while looking through the light cutouts on the back. Each unit is test fitted before shipping out. 

7. Once the glue has cured (make sure you follow the glue manufacturers recommendations) you can reinstall your switches and lights. 
 

If you also purchased new oem switches at the same time, the wiring from top to bottom is: ground, load, positive. These switches can be used to control just about anything. 
 

A note on lighting: these bezels have been made to recreate the factory yellow/green color using the standard original “74” bulbs. If you decide to use a standard white LED the glow will be slightly blue and will not look as good as the original filament type bulbs. I recommend sticking with the original types as this will produce the most oem appearance. 
 

We spent many hours and went through literally hundreds of different materials until we found this one that provides the best light difusión and symbol clarity. Using multiple layers, I was able to reproduce a finish that looks like it came from the factory when installed. 
 

 

 

 

[Tex06]

Very cool.

[ghetdjc320]

I was able to add the correct color filter to get these to produce the factory yellow/green as close as possible. I updated the installation notes with this new info. All the production units now come with the color filters.