I did it

[Pete M]

I mention it because you'll need to redo some of your handiwork to install the other options (the fittings changed over time).  if you do it all at once, you only need to run lines once.  

[Sir Sam]

29 minutes ago, Pete M said:

yes.  you can also go with an aftermarket inline prop valve for the rear so you can dial it in juuuuust right.  

 

also, also, also, now is the time to contemplate a rear disk brakes swap.    super easy using ZJ parts

 

just imagine how awesome things will be will a whole new updated brake system

I’m loving my all disk setup with the WJ big brakes. Even with my heavy load range E tired it stops very well. 
 

to the OP. I bought a set of stainless steel lines for a newer Cherokee, also grab a newer Cherokee brake booster and master cylinder and you are off to a good start on replacing the brake system. I had to modify and extend the Cherokee rear line to the back. I added a couple of extra bends to clear the MJ bump outs on the frame rail, and straighten the rear part a little and then run the last few feet of line myself. 
 

I bought stainless steel line to match the new Cherokee lines that were stainless. The cupornickle stuff already mentioned is also good and softer than the stainless. I bought a quality bending tool and flaring tool to make life easier, but I also have other projects that need brake lines custom made. 
 

welcome to the Comanche world. 

[NewcomerComanche]

Another (possibly) dumb question that I can't seem to find a consistent answer to. 

 

Break line diameters, are they consistent between hard and soft lines on the '88 or am I frankensteining a few fittings?  I'm seeing 3/16, 7/16, and 3/8 on different write-ups. 

 

Is it simply a bad idea if I'm swapping out lines to grab new lines all similar diameter? 

And is there a reason soft lines are different size than hardline?