jtdesigns Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I have alot of play in my steering and need to adjust the steering box. I know it has a lock nut over a shaft that uses a allen key to turn. I need to know what specs I need to turn the shaft. What are the procedures to adjust it? Thanks,,,,,jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 One more thing I did check the tre's and ball joints, There is just a little play in the front hub's. It's a 89 2wd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I have posted the procedure two or three times. I know it's impolite to tell folks to use search, and if I had more time I would search it for you ... but I don't have time at the moment. It's here if you look for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 I have posted the procedure two or three times. I know it's impolite to tell folks to use search, and if I had more time I would search it for you ... but I don't have time at the moment. It's here if you look for it. Thanks, I will try again to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 It could be a worn track bar, worn tie rod ends, worn drag link, and/or worn ball joints. Or even a failing hub/bearing unit. However, the steering box can be adjusted. You can check it by parking with the steering wheel straight ahead (this is VERY important), and the engine off but the steering not locked by the ignition. Stand beside the driver's door, reach in through the window, and turn the wheel back and forth gently. The goal here is to not turn the tires, but to see how much free play there is before the tires actually start to turn. If you find much, the next step should be to have a helper continue to turn the steering wheel back and forth while you crawl under the vehicle and check every tie rod end fitting in the steering linkage. The helper should put just enough pressure on the wheel so the tire just starts to move at each extreme. Wear latex gloves and actually put your hand on each tie rod end -- often you can feel it flexing even when you can't see it. Don't over look the frame end of the track bar or the pitman arm end of the drag link. If all the tie rod ends are tight, then you can attack the steering box. It's easier to see if you remove the air box, but not entirely necessary. On the top of the box is a cover plate, held on with three bolts and with a fourth stud sticking up out of the middle. That middle stud is the over-center lash adjustment. To adjust, you loosen the locknut on the stud, then put a hex wrench (I think it's a 3/16 but I don't recall) in the top of the stud and gradually tighten it while you turn the steering wheel back and forth. I prefer to do it with the air box out of the way so I can use my right hand to turn the steering shaft while my left hand turns the adjusting screw. This allows me to feel as well as see how much slop is left. You want to tighten it to where you almost remove all the free play. The box needs a little free play to operate without internal wear. The box is designed to be tightest over the center of the range (hence the name of the adjustment), and that's why this adjustment has to be made with the steering set straight. If it's turned, you'll tighten the screw too far and the box will self-destruct quickly. Once you have adjusted out the slop, hold the Allen key and retighten the locknut. Replace the air box and you're done. If the adjusting screw bottoms out without removing the slop, the steering box is toast. Found it For you its in the last paragraph. Hope this helps. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 It could be a worn track bar, worn tie rod ends, worn drag link, and/or worn ball joints. Or even a failing hub/bearing unit. However, the steering box can be adjusted. You can check it by parking with the steering wheel straight ahead (this is VERY important), and the engine off but the steering not locked by the ignition. Stand beside the driver's door, reach in through the window, and turn the wheel back and forth gently. The goal here is to not turn the tires, but to see how much free play there is before the tires actually start to turn. If you find much, the next step should be to have a helper continue to turn the steering wheel back and forth while you crawl under the vehicle and check every tie rod end fitting in the steering linkage. The helper should put just enough pressure on the wheel so the tire just starts to move at each extreme. Wear latex gloves and actually put your hand on each tie rod end -- often you can feel it flexing even when you can't see it. Don't over look the frame end of the track bar or the pitman arm end of the drag link. If all the tie rod ends are tight, then you can attack the steering box. It's easier to see if you remove the air box, but not entirely necessary. On the top of the box is a cover plate, held on with three bolts and with a fourth stud sticking up out of the middle. That middle stud is the over-center lash adjustment. To adjust, you loosen the locknut on the stud, then put a hex wrench (I think it's a 3/16 but I don't recall) in the top of the stud and gradually tighten it while you turn the steering wheel back and forth. I prefer to do it with the air box out of the way so I can use my right hand to turn the steering shaft while my left hand turns the adjusting screw. This allows me to feel as well as see how much slop is left. You want to tighten it to where you almost remove all the free play. The box needs a little free play to operate without internal wear. The box is designed to be tightest over the center of the range (hence the name of the adjustment), and that's why this adjustment has to be made with the steering set straight. If it's turned, you'll tighten the screw too far and the box will self-destruct quickly. Once you have adjusted out the slop, hold the Allen key and retighten the locknut. Replace the air box and you're done. If the adjusting screw bottoms out without removing the slop, the steering box is toast. Found it For you its in the last paragraph. Hope this helps. Cole I didn't find that one ! Thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 NP i needed the info as well so i figured i could search for you. I have learned a few tricks to searching on here so i can usally find stuff quick. You need to search for post with the Author if you know who it might be. In this case It made it somewhat easy. Now with JeepcoMJ He has ALOT of post per day so his posts can be hard to search thru. Just an idea for you. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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