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Fuse Panel Repair


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 I have fixed or figured out the issue with pretty much all of my messed up wiring, and it all always comes back to the fuse panel. In a few fuse slots one of the ends the fuse slides into is either entirely missing or is broken so the fuse can't sit properly. There is also at least one scenario where a wire is just simply cut and not connected to the back of the fuse slot. I'll give detailed explanations about each issue next to its picture, but that's not the main thing I'm here for. One way or another, I have to get behind the fuse panel to put in new wires or female fuse slots.(ACTUAL QUESTION) Is there any way of getting easier access to the back of the fuse panel that I should know about? I have had a hard time just getting a mirror behind it to see everything, if I'm gonna mess around with wires back there, I need to get better access.

 

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The pink wire circled on top I believe is supposed to run into the back of the HZ/STOP fuse so it can actually supply power to the flasher. I have jumped it to the front and the hazards work fine.

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Because the brake light switch gets it's power from the HAZ/STOP fuse too, the brake lights didn't work. The previous owner "fixed" this by just tapping off of the brake switches hot wire and giving it power from the front of the fuse slot.

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Here is one of the weird ones. The TURN/BU fuse slot, is missing the bottom female end. So how did the previous owner "fix" it this time?

                                                                                                                                                                                      

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                                                                                                                                                                                     (bottom up fuse)

They took the hot wires that were supposed to be in the fuse panel, and connected them into one and then connected it to the output side of the fuse slot. At least they included an actual fuse now.:beerbang:

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Lastly, the DOME fuses input side is broken and is pretty dirty. After some time and luck, it IS possible to get the fuse to sit just right where it has connection, but I still want to fix the bottom whenever I figure out how I am going to access the back.

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I just started doing the same thing, although mine isn’t as jacked up as yours.

To pull the fuse panel apart, undo the screws at the top left and bottom right, pry up on the tabs on the side of each screw location, and then pull the front of the panel off. There’s enough slack in the wires to work back there.

For the broken terminals, get some ATO / ATC fuse block terminals and replace the broken ones.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Thanks, I forgot to mention a few things regarding that. I'm missing the bottom screw, and the top one is already out. I got it out of the pry tab from the right screw, I didn't notice if there was one on the top by the left screw, maybe and hopefully it's actually there and that's whats keeping mine so close to the fire wall.

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Thanks, I forgot to mention a few things regarding that. I'm missing the bottom screw, and the top one is already out. I got it out of the pry tab from the right screw, I didn't notice if there was one on the top by the left screw, maybe and hopefully it's actually there and that's whats keeping mine so close to the fire wall.

There are tabs by each screw. Zoom in of the top left screw on the picture I posted and you can see a little notch / slot going down parallel to the screw. Slide a very small flathead screwdriver down that notch and it will open up the tab.


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3 minutes ago, rmb2485 said:


There are tabs by each screw. Zoom in of the top left screw on the picture I posted and you can see a little notch / slot going down parallel to the screw. Slide a very small flathead screwdriver down that notch and it will open up the tab.


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Thanks, I'll go check now

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16 minutes ago, rmb2485 said:


There are tabs by each screw. Zoom in of the top left screw on the picture I posted and you can see a little notch / slot going down parallel to the screw. Slide a very small flathead screwdriver down that notch and it will open up the tab.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright, yeah I never saw the tab on the left one for whatever reason. Thank you very much

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