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89 Comanche external slave swap

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I've got everything together my only issue is that i can't connect the clutch line from the old master cylinder to a newer style slave. I spent 85 bucks on a kit from advanced adapters that was supposed to work but it doesn't. I can't seem to find anything on it.. i bought a pre bled system fit a 94 cheokee that's what year the trans is from. The master almost fits but i think the bolt holes are just slightly offset. Best bet to drill out the holes in the master and try that way? The rod connector is a different size though i think, so i don't think it will connect to the pedal. What have you guys done to get this job out of the way?


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I know you said you used a lot from advanced adapters. When I did my swap I used individual parts. 

When going from an internal slave to an external slave, there are various ways to go about getting the clutch master cylinder and external slave connected. One method is to buy the complete kit. The issue that I have heard with this is that it requires the drilling of a new upper mounting hole in order for the later clutch master cylinder. I have no personal experience with this so I cannot confirm this. 



To avoid headache and making unnecessary holes I went the second option. AdvancedAdapters sells hydraulic fittings that allows youth retain the year specific clutch master cylinder while mating it up to the slave cylinder at the bell housing. You can order the complete setup (Jeep Slave Cylinder Assembly For NV3550/AX15 Bellhousing, P/N 716340) or you can purchase the parts individually. Why I don't know but, I had a brand new slave cylinder laying around so I purchased the individual parts. To connect the stainless steel hose (716130-60, 60" length or 716130H, 42" length) you will need the early master cylinder fitting that is a 7/16 inverted flare style (P/N 716130F). This fitting will thread right into the clutch master cylinder.



Then to connect the stainless steel hose to the slave cylinder you will need the TJ Master Cylinder Fitting and Slave Cylinder Fitting (P/N 716130 TJ) and O-ring (P/N 716130OR).



Once its all connected you will need to prime the hydraulic system. The slave cylinder does not have a bleeder valve. In order to prime the hydraulic system you'll need to let the push fully extend (don't cut or break the retaining straps that come with the slave cylinder). While holding the slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle, pour the fluid into the slave until its full. At this point insert the fitting, o-ring, and hose. And place in the retaining pin. Once secured with the retaining pin hold the slave in a vertical position with the rod pointing down to the floor and slowly push the rod inward about 1". After about 10-15 strokes there should not be any air bubbles in the master cylinder reservoir.


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The kid I got looks exactly like yours, The issue I had with it was that the line wasn't exactly long enough, and the fitting for the slave cylinder was to big and didn't match the hole. I did try to grind down the tip and got it in place but the rest was smaller so it just pissed fluid out. I got the hose connected but its stretched pretty tight. I wonder if I just had the wrong slave fitting and if they have what I need individually. My master is new, I also have a new master for a 94 cherokee that came with my slave. The 94 holes don't lign up and i'd rather keep it as stock as possible so I will be looking through their fittings and hopefully I can get one soon.

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1 hour ago, Killernoise said:

Thank you for the replies, i'm 99% sure that TJ fitting is what I need and I just ordered one. I figured I was doing something wrong, I also am pretty sure I have the braided hose on backwards and thats why its having a hard time reaching.

I hope that the TJ fitting solves the issue with the fluid leaking out. Which end of the braided hose do/did you have connected to the master cylinder? The end with the 90 degree bend should be connected to the master cylinder. 

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I'm pretty sure I have it backwards with the bend at the slave, I was in a hurry and tired and wanted it done. Thinking about it now, it makes sense for the bend to be at the master because I lost a lot of hose by it sticking up and then dropping down and around the booster.

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