blakews2217 Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 I got me a 88 mj, 4.0, 5speed, 4wd long bed , rust bucket. Someone cared about it once a long time ago. Needs the gas tank swapped, clutch and brakes bled with fresh fluid, rear driveshaft rebuilt and a tie rod end. Then vacuum leaks, tires, fix the passenger door pin. May have wide tires already. Rust? Check Cloth bucket seats? Check. Cut door pin mount? Check. Floors? Who needs em. More than enough vacuum leaks. Also, PO cut Factory air box for his cold air intake, that’s drawing in hot air under the hood. Gj. Blower motor does not work. Radio is shoddy at best. Wrong shift knob but idc. Non-tach gauge cluster. More pics to come as I get stuff done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks to my phone it decided to post only the one picture. And it was from work. Great. hopefully fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Is it me or did you only post a picture of a “confidential” document? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 all i see too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakews2217 Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Should be fixed now. Phone decided to use the last pic in gallery instead of the ones I was taking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakews2217 Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Update. Got the leaky gas tank fixed, tried to bleed the clutch some but the bleeder wasn’t gonna move so I just pumped the crap out of it for a while. Bled the front brakes. Now I gotta get two new wheel cylinders and adjust the drums, Change the fluid in the trans, change the motor oil, top up the coolant, fix the pass. door pin and @$$ some steel to the floor. If I have the steel I’ll have to get rid of the aftermarket sun roof, it leaks bad. Not I get to catch up on maintenance that’s been neglected. Side note, the pedals are so close together that if I'm In my work boots I hit multiple pedals. Are they always this close?Too it for a test drive and it needs way more work. I gotta do a tie rod end for sure. The steering column is super sloppy, like the tilt mech is sloppy. I get about 1 inch of play up and down. As far as wiring I gotta get all new fuses that are missing in the fuse block and start from there. I noticed it’s got no action from the blower motor, the back lights in the cluster don’t work, and with the hazards on if I hit the brake they stay lit. Vac lines are at bare minimum, map sensor and fuel pressure regulator. I gotta I through all the vac lines and fix a bunch of leaky ones. Without any big vac leaks it idles pretty smooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakews2217 Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 It’s been over a year now and I’ve done very minimal to it. I flipped the spring perched on the rear axle to get rid of the god awful squat. , used an angle finder to get the pinion angle right. Added an oil pressure gauge and a temp gauge, I used a spare late model xj thermostat housing for the temp sensor location. Found it didn’t have an O2 sensor but had the wiring and place for it, I Added one. I swapped the cluster to one with a tach. Found and fixed some oil leaks, converted the AC compressor (it somehow wasn’t sized) to onboard air, I reused the original ac condenser in the grill bud forgot to yank the restrictive tube as I’m reusing much of the factory parts. For the oil feed for the compressor, I’m drawing air from the crank case as this motor has a good bit of blow by and will soak things with an oil mist. It’s got a fresh air draw in the airbox, and a vac source to the manifold. I tee’d the vac source and ran a soft line to the compressor. Lost the ballast resistor playing in the snow so just bypassed it. I also did a little experiment with the axles, as I plan on grabbing a set from my father. It has stock 3.05 gears and open diffs. Front d30 and rear d35 behind a pugot (yuck!) with about 3 pounds of welding wire in the spider gears. I do not plan on reusing these axles. Lo and behold, the weak point is the u-joint straps and bolts to the rear driveshaft. I went to replace the yoke, joint and hardware only to find this has happened before. The pinion is toast, threads are not good anymore, the driveshaft is sized into the t-case, which must have happened recently as I’ve had it out. Never seen one size like that. I’m going to get a set of axles from my father that he saved when he scrapped his zjFront d30, ratchet locker and 4.88 gearsRear Ford 8.8 custom tri-link And disks and set for coilsSet up for coilsRelocate the battery to the bed next to the 11 gallon air tank Swap to a zj master if I canReplace the leaking boosterRun fresh brake lines to the rear as they are rottenReplace most of the steeringFix the columnToss on the winch bumper I have if I can fix itGet a good winchMore to add or change as I progress. End game is deep gears, 33s or 35s onboard air, more flex, a cage, maybe better seats and belts. Essentially make it a badass rig. Also, if you feel bad for it, don’t. I traded a xj for it and this thing is rotten to high hell. No floors, rockers are gone, there’s a spot in the frame that’s looking sad and the non-factory sunroof leaks bad. A big thing for me is being able to stay planted in the Jeep should a roll over happen. I’m thinking bucket seats and 5 point harnesses? Good or bad idea?This is all a long way out as I just moved out from my parents house at 22, working my @$$ off, and bought a new car because the old truck died and was not saveable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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