1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 I replaced my fuel system completely, battery, IAC, TPS, cleaned throttle body. And now she doesn't even want to try to crank. I'm not getting any lights on the dash, I can't check the dash codes because of this and I'm so stuck.. If anyones had this issue or has fixed this issue for someone else, any info is greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Battery charged? If so it could be a bad or disconnected ignition switch or fuse link. Do you have headlights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 Just went out and checked. No headlights, battery reading 14.00vdc its brand new. Is there multiple fusible links or just one? And I was gonna go for the ignition switch soon its just I'm a big guy and cramming in under the dash is big pain in the rear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 9 minutes ago, jdog said: Battery charged? If so it could be a bad or disconnected ignition switch or fuse link. Do you have headlights? I guess my best bet would be find the fuse link first and check there, then move on to the switch, thanks for narrowing it down for me a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Fuse links are near the battery and starter relay if memory serves me correct. But with http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=196 it shows they come right off the starter relay. I would start there. The thing with fuse links is finding the soft spot and see if you can separate it. FYI just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good, had a co worker buy a brand new battery and still have to use a jump to start his ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 7 minutes ago, jdog said: Fuse links are near the battery and starter relay if memory serves me correct. But with http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=196 it shows they come right off the starter relay. I would start there. The thing with fuse links is finding the soft spot and see if you can separate it. FYI just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good, had a co worker buy a brand new battery and still have to use a jump to start his ride. Thanks man, I'll give it a go. If all else fails I guess I'll try another battery. That's what it seems like but before the new battery it was running real $#!&ty and I thought it was fuel issues so I replaced the tank, pump, filter, and injectors. Once I was done I had to jump the old battery to get it to start, it was still a super hard start. So I replaced the TPS and IAC and it felt the same, a real hard start but when it started it backfired and misfired like I was pedal to the medal. I pulled my pcm, and it looks okay not burnt or anything on the board. But it won't give me the check engine light or my guages or anything anymore like if there wasnt even a battery connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 If those check out check your battery cables if youve got a ohm meter disconnect it from the battery and ohm the cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 4 minutes ago, jdog said: If those check out check your battery cables if youve got a ohm meter disconnect it from the battery and ohm the cables Will do, by any chance do you know what the reading should be? If not I can look it up in the Haynes manual, it should be in there i would think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 9 minutes ago, 1991.pioneer.explorer said: Will do, by any chance do you know what the reading should be? If not I can look it up in the Haynes manual, it should be in there i would think? It's going to be SUPER low, like under ONE ohm. Any cable that is got enough resistance to prevent even the most basic electrical functions (like a dome light or parking lights) will measure VERY high impedance, in the tens of thousands of ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 4 minutes ago, AZJeff said: It's going to be SUPER low, like under ONE ohm. Any cable that is got enough resistance to prevent even the most basic electrical functions (like a dome light or parking lights) will measure VERY high impedance, in the tens of thousands of ohms. Sweet, I appreciate the info. This has been the most success I've had in research you guys are awesome here.🤘 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 If you have no lighting at all, you basically have a battery that is not connected to the wiring of the vehicle. I am not as up on the older MJ type wiring, but since they seem to use fuseable links instead of the more modern power distribution block, I am leaning towards what others are saying--one or more fuseable links is blown or disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Any luck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 8 minutes ago, jdog said: Any luck? Wasn't able to get around to looking for fuse links or testing the cables yet, I know it'll only take 5 minutes but gotta get ready for out of town work this week its gonna have to wait till Thursday or maybe 3 in the morning if my ride lags lol I'll let you all know. I appreciate everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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