pingpong Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 The front half of the frame is only 3.5 inches tall... Just a heads up on that. also where are you getting your DOM from.. thats a decent price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 The front half of the frame is only 3.5 inches tall... Just a heads up on that. also where are you getting your DOM from.. thats a decent price. Dom is source locally from a welding shop. They usually do me right. I realize that the front half of the frame is only 3.5", but, my rockers are trashed, and the pinch seam is going to have to go. The plan is to bend the top of the channel over so I can weld it ino the floorpan, and then build the rock rails into the rockers from that, and the existing cab supports. probably with a few more supposrts ran to the side of the newly plated frame rail. I might go with 2x3 and then bend another piece to fit, but going with 2x4 or 2x5 and bending the one leg may be easier. I've got a friend that runs a cnc brake at a local shop, so if it will fit in his machine that's what's gonna happen. Probably do 3/16 stuff on the frame rail, maybe even 1/8, but I don't know if 1/8 will stand up to the rocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 I was just telling you that.. I don't know what kinda of equipment access you have. I would see if you could get 1/8 or 3/16 bent like the TNT frame stiffners are for the XJ. That way you can drill lots of small holes and put lots of weld on them(kinda like tempermental racing has done for their front frame stiffners). While you are doing research you might want to look at this months Offroad magazine.. they are doing a 4 link on a Ranger.. might give you a few ideas. As for DOM prices you have to buy in bulk to get that good of rate locally. I mean like 300 feet or more. That adds up quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Dunno if this comes out cheaper...? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/pro ... t=0&page=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 MIght not be cheaper, but easier to source al the parts from one place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 cost is a big deal right now. So I'll be doing all the work myself. Besides, I'm not sure if all that would fit under my junk. It's easier to make the right parts, than modify someone elses that don't fit. anyway, I think I've come to a few decisions. Rubber on the frame side shanked rebuildable on the axle side 2x4 crossmember for the uppers. probably going to tie the lowers to the plated frame rail on the inside. that leaves me with a few questions about the crossmember. That section of the frame will obviously be plated, but I don't think I want to weld the crossmember in place. Was thinking of putting a flange on the ends that wrapped around under the frame rail. 4 sleeved bolts through the frame rial, and then 2 or 3 on the bottom into weld nuts. We're probably talking 5/8" grade 8 bolts all the way across. Strong enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 Sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 I wouls go with 4 grade 8's on the bottom, and 2 on the side. When you weld in the weldnuts... reinforce the area with 3/16 to give you nutserts plenty to hold onto. I know a couple of ppl who tried the poly bushing and jj o each end.. they said the bushing would be hashed after a few rides Do lots of research and talk to ppl who have built rigs similar to yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted September 15, 2007 Author Share Posted September 15, 2007 I wouls go with 4 grade 8's on the bottom, and 2 on the side. When you weld in the weldnuts... reinforce the area with 3/16 to give you nutserts plenty to hold onto. I know a couple of ppl who tried the poly bushing and jj o each end.. they said the bushing would be hashed after a few rides Do lots of research and talk to ppl who have built rigs similar to yours best way to weld in the nuts? I was thinking of making a "nut strip" and then welding that to the frame. Just use the unibit to drill holes to clear the nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 The probelem there would be getting the Nut strip in there. THey sell eld in bungs through many different vendors. I have found some that are just round threaded bushings. from a stock car place o pirate... auctually they have lots of stuff and the prices are decent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 yeah, I wouldn't be sandwiching the frame rail, I'd just clearance the holes in the rail, and weld the nuts to the back of the frame rail plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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