Jump to content

AC Compressor Service Valve


Recommended Posts

Trying to get my AC going but the low side service valve is froze up. I can tell at one point it had some vice grips put on the valve stem so I said what the heck I’ll try it again but still will not budge. I ran across this particular one on EBay that appears to be a plug n play replacement:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/BACK-SEAT-ROTOLOCK-YORK-R210L-A-C-COMPRESSOR-SUCTION-FITTING-FORD/280963786818?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D8f05ca875cb444979047aa9433803f1d%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D280963786818%26itm%3D280963786818&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Abf667721-6cd4-11e8-9084-74dbd18011bd|parentrq%3Aeac4e98d1630aa48d8bfe9d9fff08cc7|iid%3A1

 

Can someone give me some proper guidance on the steps after replacing. 

 

I’m thinking the following:

 

1. capture all the coolant if there is any which may be a problem if I can’t get the low side open,  hopefully this can be done on the high side, I’ve checked and it turns freely

2. Replace service valve and pull vacuum, ensure no leaks and refill system which appears to have been swapped to 134a just looking at the fittings. 

 

Thing I have questions on since there is no nameplate data on the compressor itself. 

 

1. How many ounces of 134a to use

2. How to check the compressor oil, per the FSM to shows a special tool which of course I don’t have. 

 

Any other suggestions on shortcuts or performing the service valve replacement would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks in advance,

Griff

C4A91AD4-4D00-490D-88BC-8A84DC0D7143.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try tightening it looks open to me. Because when you swap to 134a it switches that valve out that wouldn't have a Schrader on. So free on wouldn't come out until you open the valve so if you press on the Schrader valve and Freon comes out or air valve is open.

Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To open the service valve you turn it cw. Check out the below for instructions on filling. If the valve is shot, I have a used pair, suction and discharge that fit your compressor that are in great shape if you need them, w. o-rings too.

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm

 

https://comancheclub.com/topic/50780-ac-r12-to-r12a-refrigerant-recharge-results/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MuddFoot said:

Try tightening it looks open to me. Because when you swap to 134a it switches that valve out that wouldn't have a Schrader on. So free on wouldn't come out until you open the valve so if you press on the Schrader valve and Freon comes out or air valve is open.

Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk
 

I’ve tried turning both ways with no luck. You are probably already aware of this but this is a 3 position valve...all the way out or in the backseated position it blocks off the service port, mid-way in and it is in the service position for adding freon, the full-in position blocks the system from the compressor, that is the position I believe it is in. 

 

Thanks for the reply. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

To open the service valve you turn it cw. Check out the below for instructions on filling. If the valve is shot, I have a used pair, suction and discharge that fit your compressor that are in great shape if you need them, w. o-rings too.

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm

 

https://comancheclub.com/topic/50780-ac-r12-to-r12a-refrigerant-recharge-results/

I know I need the low side one but if you can spare both I’ll take them. How much do you need to get out of them? Will need shipping quote to 31707?

 

Thanks,

Griff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So need some help from the AC gurus. 

 

Got another service valve. Before replacing I checked the pressure on the high side, vehicle not running and it read “0”, could not check the low side because of the service valve stuck in the closed position, I would “assume” it would also be at “0”. When I removed the valve for replacement no noticeable freon came out so I’m assuming the system was bone dry. 

 

From what I’ve read anytime a system sits for an extended period while empty it is best to replace the accumulator/drier?? I ordered one today. 

 

Before replacing it I wanted to check the system for leaks, pulled vacuum for 20 minutes, got to 30 inches, closed system off and in 20 minutes it leaked down to 25. So I shot can ine can of 134 in it with leak detector dye, will check tonite with light and try to pinpoint and repair leak(s).

 

Once I’m sure leaks are corrected I’ll install the new drier, re-vac, and recharge which I should be good to go. 

 

Here’s my questions:

Is it necessary to replace drier as I’ve read all over the place?

 

At the amount it’s leaking, 30 to 25, in 20 minutes, wonder how it long this 1 can charge will last....The system was readying  at 30psi on low side with compressor running. 

 

thanks

Griff

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the new accumulator/drier and installed today. Prior to replacing it I had shot some dye in the system and found a leaking o-ring on high side hose fitting and replaced it also. Pulled vacuum and isolated system which held at 25 for 30 minute, I’m good with that. Ran vacuum another hour and then recharged system, man it’s nice when the AC works in southwest Ga. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...