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Radiator Water Flow Problems


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Located on the cylinder head? Then it might be possible, probably need the corresponding plug then work out if you can wire it in. The old jeep system is dead simple all of the gauges go to the gauges and not a ecu. Unless you've got some early ecu . I. Now the 2.5 in 1886 were renix, California emission should be the only worry with the 2.8.

Alternatively find and swap back the 2.8 sensor. All of them should match up to the wiring harness. If that's not possible then gm has all kinds of plugs and pigtails available you would need to hunt down a catalogue on line of check a few stores. Probably very common.


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does anybody know what the original connector to the temp sensor on the 2.8 is ?

nyb9uc.jpg

 

if i can find that connector then maybe i can connect those two wires to my new sensor and get my temp dash gauge to work 

16ivayd.jpg

 

and Green Mesa XJ you say that on the 86 all the sensors get wired directly to the gauges in the dash ?

if that is true then what I'm trying to do is definitely possible 

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It's that red wire with flat look spade connector. I see it in your photo, next to the bluish green wire.
a350b8edca48f7a69bfa3a78cb9e3033.jpg

Not sure what that plugs in the picture in to, probably the two prong temperature thingy. This is how mine looks
3e145a05e09841df752b44be15b14148.jpg

Mine harness is 1986 federal emission (no computer).


The beauty of the 3.4 swap beside you can swap it all and it's plug and play is if you ran the Camaro injection with ecu spliced in the old XJ harness would connect to the senders like oil, temperature and alternator like before and work.




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ok so after tinkering around i had connected these two wires like you said

i tried to both sensors but could only get a response with the way its currently hooked up 

 

2cdfkf5.jpg

 

and i was able to get the temp gauge to move from 100 to this 

okv5h3.jpg

 

do you guys think i figured it out ??

how can i be sure i have it hooked up correctly 

i sure wish i could find some info on the two prong sensor so i could read up on it and see exectly what its made for 

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no i don't have the 2.8 engine just a few parts from it 

but i do agree with you that the red wire goes to the gauge 

maybe i just have to pull the coolant sensor out and screw in the correct sensor in its place then connect the red wire 

but I'm not sure what the correct 2.8 sensor that would be  

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Ok I did wright down which one worked for the 2.8 , but I can't find my note book I've been marking down what parts i use.

Looking at my order history....

It looks like 213-80 gm

Lost of firebird guys say this fit their v8s so it on the right track

 

 

 

Or it could be the

G1852

Some say it's for 70s v8 and vortex cylinder heads.

 

I'm almost certain it's 213-80 gm, it looks just like the part in the engine in my garage.

 

But I can't guarantee it just be fairly sure. Shop around on price and maybe a local shop will have something on the shelf.

 

Took me years to find that sender, all of the catalogues I hit were wrong, even got the 4.0 sensor you posted earlier on my shelf

 

 

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hmmm well that sucks I'm hoping somebody would actually know that way it would save me the pain 

but i guess i will buy it at orileys and return it if i can't get it to work

so theoretically i can get the sensor 

replace it where one of the other sensors are 

connect the red wire and then see if my temp gauge responds correctly 

guess that will be my plan 

 

is this it right here 

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-80-Original-Equipment-Temperature/dp/B000C9L7DI

how do you connect the red wire to it?

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On 9/11/2017 at 11:08 PM, AMC86Kid said:

i got the carb working by putting in a bypass pressure valve so the fuel constantly cycles and the carb sounds like it just sucks in gas as it needs it 

i don't think its the radiator the guy who sold it to me said that he took it to a shop and got it pressure tested

also when i squeeze the bottom hose wich i think is the inlet hose i see the air bubbles pushing threw the rad and coming up to the cap  

 

the radiator or the fluid inside of it is not hot just the engine is, thats why i think something is blocking the flow because if it was flowing then the fluid would warm up as well 

 

i would guess that the temp of the engine gets around 150-175

 

You do realize that the normal operating temperature is around 210 degrees (F), right? And the temperature at which water boils at sea level is 212 degrees. All internal combustion engines are too hot to touch at normal operating temperature. You can't go by touch, that's why we have temperature gauges.

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yes i have learned that it gets over 180 degrees because i had to buy a new thermostat thats rated at 180 

but how hot is the radiator allowed to get because mine gets pretty hot and i added a big fan

maybe the coolant to water ratio is not 50 /50 and thats why it gets warm very fast 

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Water gets hotter faster then ethylene / propylene glycol . However ethylene / propylene glycol will retain heat longer then water. Never have more then a 50/50 mix unless your in places like Alaska. Here in Texas I run a 20/80 Mix since we never get below 0. I also use water wetter or hyper lube super coolant in all my cars. I use 1 bottle in my 4.0 jeep. The water wetter or hyper lube super coolant  makes the coolant/water more conductive, by ridding the bubbles between the metal and liquid.

 

On our dirt track truck we play around with, we use 3 bottles of hyper lube super coolant with straight water, it is 4.0 and runs at 190 even when it is 110 outside.

 

Never go by tough lol use a gauge of some kind. They have thermal readers that you can check the temp of the metal to see the difference in temps.

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when you say 20/80 mix do you mean 20 coolant to 80 water mix 

 

also i called orileys and they don't sell the ACDelco 21380 temp switch but they crossed referenced it to this 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/bwd-3123/lighting---electrical-16777/switches-16486/a-c-switches-16500/coolant-temperature-sensor-sender-switch-11362/temp-sender-gauge/wt359/2617460/1994/pontiac/firebird?q=Wt359

my only concern is the part where it says this: Temperature Range (Deg F):  Closed At 100 Degree, Open At 220 Degree

does that mean it will only keep track of my engine temp up to 220 and then it won't go any higher?

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Sounds like an idiot light temperature range. Dunno.
I've had trouble sourcing the correct sender so my guess of 213-80 is only a guess as I haven't installed the new motor yet.
If oreilly has a temp sender with gauge in their book for the 86 I guess give it a try


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ok so here is where I'm at 

i got a new temp sensor this one:

http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch/duralast-temperature-switch/129205_173479_10199_5673?&searchText=tu66

the guy at autozone told me that its an OEM equivalent to the AcDelco 21380

i screwed it in and connected the red wire and ran my motor with no luck the gauge in the dash stayed at 100 degrees 

2laaamt.jpg

 

i do believe that this is the correct sensor to use however i do not know how the gauge in the dash works 

it could be something simple like my gauge is not grounded or my vehicle is not grounded properly but who knows 

 

also i found this remember the hole in the corner that you were talking about 

fdwqoy.jpg

 

it looks like the 2.8 sensor would screw into it since the hole appears smaller 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=930679&cc=1181393&jsn=384

but of course i would have to connect it to my gauge in the dash and i don't think it would work anyways 

 

so at this point id say i should get a new gauge and try to hook it up to one of my temp sensors 

any suggestions on what gauge i should get and how to hook it up so i can get a good measurement at what temp my engine is running at 

 

 

 

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