Slave cylinder bleeding?

[Bonkers]

As part of my continuing failing Ax15 swap

i have developed yet another issue. When the

transmission heats up i lose clutch pedal.

I replaced the line during the swap with a

Sachs 95 Xj "pre-bled" combo. Over the weekend

I squeeze bled the slave for about 30min and it

worked great. Woke up this morning and its back

to failing. There is no bleeder valve on the

slave, just a notch that looks to need to be

drilled out. I don't know what size drill or what

kind of fitting is needed to seal it.

 

My question: is this worth the hassle or should

I just replace with new. The place where i bought

it will not refund an installed part so if i buy

new ill have to eat the $150 already spent...

Opinions?

[Jackrabbit41]

Not sure but I've bought 3 pre bled kits and they've always been perfect. On mine there is a hex screw that looks like a bleeder screw

[87Warrior]

No need to drill and tap, you can bleed by hand. This maybe what you refer as 'squeeze bleed'. If this doesn't/didn't work, I'd wager you have an air leak.

 

- Remove the slave from the bell housing.

 

- Unscrew clutch master cylinder cap, make sure fluid is topped off.

 

- Go back under the truck and hold the slave vertical with the rod end pointing down. Gently push and pull the rod to simulate the slave working. Any air in the system will work it's way up to the master.

 

For $150 you could piece together a hydraulic kit from Napa (Clutch master, hose, slave, and brake fluid) for a 95 XJ. This is the route I took on my 86 since I didn't trust those pre bled kits. Even the replacement slave cylinder bought individually won't have a bleed valve and you will need to do the same procedure above.

[Bonkers]

Yes, i found a Sachs instructional video

on how to "squeeze bleed" a one peice unit.

They said to mount a steering wheel puller

to the bellhousing mount and go from pedal

to slave to pedal until the master has no

air bubbles. Did this for 30min. If it has

a leak i have not been able to find it.