Chrysler 8.25 disc brake swap

[88whitemanche]

I guess i don't understand why you wouldnt just swap in the prop valve from the donor ZJ with discs, and run the "rear" line into an extended braided line at the bracket, down to the wheel lines; retaining the 3/8 connection where it runs into the T and not having to reflare anything on that end. If you took the 8.25 from an xj, the brake lines, splitting block, and even the flexible line should all be attached. You could then remove the excess line running along the frame, the weight valve and all associated lines.

There's a couple guys that have done that,

On the axle end everything stays the same all the way to the rubber hose, there's only a couple of things that change without changing the actual distribution block...

 

Plugging the port at the block, following the line and changing the fittings to fit the rubber hose....

 

There are guys that stick to an xj, zj block for emergency braking purposes if you were to blow a brake line you have the emergency bypass to help you with braking...

 

although I don't have disc brakes, the booster/master cylinder upgrade/load sensing valve delete

Made a world of a difference in braking. Night and day difference

[cruiser54]

What i did originally was install a 95 booster/master. I left the 2 outlets for the front brakes on the MJ prop valve.

I plugged the ports to the rear brakes and used an adjustable prop valve from Summit Racing in a single line back to the rear. Height adjusting valve went away.

 

Later on, I decided to plumb the lines like I always did in the past.

I eliminated the MJ prop valve completely and just "married the 2 front lines together with a T.

The brakes suddenly got way better. The MJ prop valve had rather small orifices in it. Way smaller than the ID of a metal brake line.