Knucklehead97 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Managed to score a WJ booster/MC and all four front control arms yesterday! Guy wanted 125 but I talked him down to 90 because I was pulling them myself :D all of the bushings seem be good with some little cracks and one slightly less little crack on one bushing (not sure if I'll change them or not yet) but otherwise in great condition. Only thing is that the BB/MC didnt have the firewall spacer, but I will just use washer when it comes down to it. Next on my list is ZJ gearbox and rear disks or piecing together a Super44 muffler with a Walker tailpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 The WJ Booster doesn't come with a spacer from the factory. I had to use washers to space it mainly because the booster doesn't sit flush with the firewall on my 88 because the brake bracket covers part of the hole and/or the hole for the booster center section isn't quite big enough. In any case, good haul for 90 bucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Without the spacer the pedal sits lower as well, if I remember correctly. Main reason I'm going to space it out. Thanks! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Without the spacer the brake pedal would sit right about where it did with the old booster. With mine spaced out, the pedal sits a bit lower (closer to the firewall). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Oh, I thought it was the other way around! I'll probably space it anyways due to the same reasons you had to. I'm sure the same fitment issues would happen with my 89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 You are thinking of the booster from the ZJ and 95+ XJ, which has a longer rod length distance from the back of the booster to the hole where the pedal bolts to the rod. The WJ and our stock boosters are actually close to the same length in that measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 wJ booster just mount it flush after a wee bit of trimming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 If only that were true for mine. I clearanced that lip, didn't sit flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 I guess I will figure out for myself when I get around to doing that this summer :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 If only that were true for mine. I clearanced that lip, didn't sit flush. I have a bigger hammer... Not really. Where does it hang up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 It hangs up at the hole where the rod goes through, the very end of that center section that the rubber boot covers won't go through the hole. I measured the stock one and the WJ, and the WJ is larger by roughly 1/4-1/3 inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Oh and if nobody noticed in the picture I also got the flexible brake lines going from the WJ MC to the proportioning valve (thats what it's called, right? Lol) I've heard that having them makes the install easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 It does make it a bit easier as you can re-use the fittings (or get new ones) going into the distribution block. I simply cut off the bubble flare end that was going to go into said block, put the fitting from the block on said line, and double flared the end. I Gently persuaded the lines and bends into shapes that worked for my install, and cut them to length as needed. Not difficult, but it took the most time for me. The rest of it was pretty straight forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 It does make it a bit easier as you can re-use the fittings (or get new ones) going into the distribution block. I simply cut off the bubble flare end that was going to go into said block, put the fitting from the block on said line, and double flared the end. I Gently persuaded the lines and bends into shapes that worked for my install, and cut them to length as needed. Not difficult, but it took the most time for me. The rest of it was pretty straight forward. Yup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Great. Hopefully won't turn out to bad :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now