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1995 4.0 Fuel injection to carb


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I know the efi will run with out the dizzy hooked up with a HEI, however I don't know if the ecu can calculate the timing curve on advanced timing with out sensor information. Unlike a vacuum advanced timing like a HEI has, you would loose mpg while traveling at highway speeds or under light load. There is no info to let your ecu know it is ok to advance timing because your RPM's are increasing under a light load. You only have mechanical timing advance.

 

However a HEI system that has a vacuum advanced, you can get as close to max advance as possible. I my self when using a HEI with a carb set start around 9 degrees on the 258, then I adjust up the timing to get the best vacuum before it drops. Then I will retard timing just enough to drop rpms 75 to 100. That is ported. However you can do the same way but needs a little more tuning when you use manifold. Most of the HEI's I have use have a 16 degree mechanical timing, with 6 to 10 advance vacuum timing. So setting right around 9 to 11 you can get as close to 36 as possible.

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Luckily most of our parts are still available...but....I see the OP idea albeit maybe for a different reason...what happens when it's decided that all the sensors for the "old Jeeps" don't make enough money anymore. Yeah, we can all figure who the hoarders members on here will be.    

 

The 4.2 in my 89' Wrangler was a mess with "technology" until I ripped it all out and went aftermarket.  It wasn't like our EFI but that computer controlled Carter was just insane.  

That little YJ ran GREAT after all of it was removed for a Motorcraft 2100 some re-wiring and an MSD box. Still have the broken pinion gear to prove it!

 

Often worried about that poor Jeep and who got it next.  If they were not Jeep dedicated and did a little research ( all of what I did had been done MANY times before ) to the un-Jeep-educated it probably looked like a major back-yard/redneck job. 

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well the kit got delivered today.

 

Contents:

 

HEI distributor (and pigtail for power and tach) 

Set of spark plug wires

 

Carburetor adapter plate along with gaskets and hardware

Motorcraft  2100 carb with electric choke and gaskets 

 

Fuel injector hole plugs (basically set screws big enough to thread into the ports and rubber caps to cover them up

 

rear pull linkage bracket (with this i was able to just snap my stock throttle cable right into it and it was the perfect length)

 

 

only thing that didnt fit was the air cleaner that came with it, I'm going to have to space the hood a little to make clearance for the carb.

Everything bolted right up fired right up and went to a idle with almost no adjustment  

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  • 3 years later...

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