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Lift suggestions


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Depends on how much you'd want to trim your sheet metal. Your best bet will be spring over axle in the rear and matching it in the front. This would give approx. 5.5" of lift give or take. This will require control arm drop brackets or long arms as I feel that's too high of a lift to run short arms. Lots of threads about this if you do a search.

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^That, but good adjustable control arms with drop brackets will be plenty fine.  Whether you go long arm, or what I mentioned, it will probably end up costing around the same.  In any case, definitely do some research and decide which option is best for you and your budget.

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Conventional wisdom is that you must use CAD brackets or long arms. Most of that is repeated by people who have no personal knowledge. You can achieve a good ride and good flex with adjustable uppers and bent lowers in the stock locations. I have pics to prove it as well as first hand experience. Those two examples may well be improvements but they are not required. Build in sig.

 

Others areas that may need addressing are tthe rear axle if a D35 and the front axle shafts if they are still 260 u-joints. Some folks do fine on 33's with those components but from my watching them on the trail 33's are pushing the limits of Rhodes

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Conventional wisdom for the drop brackets is based off of simple suspension geometry.  While you can get away without drop brackets or long arms, the angle that the arms ends up at can and will effect ride quality, and can also reduce or limit travel in more extreme examples.  Whether or not a person has actually run either option has little bearing on the facts being what they are.  

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I've ran both setups, so I have first hand experience. My 92 with short arms rode like garbage. The op stated he'd be using it 90% on road. My suggestion would be at least drop brackets to return it to somewhat stock angles for ride quality.

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Adjustable length uppers change geometry. Longer lowers change geometry. Rotating axle end mounting points via adjustable uppers change geometry. ;)

 

 

I double post like crazy on here.

And none of that changes the angularity of the arms in relation to the ground.  ;)

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I'd like 33" tires and I'm not really interested in trimming metal if I don't have to. I really am just looking to add a little ground clearance and change the stance/ride height of the truck. It's my work truck and some times I've gotta drive super uneven acces roads, driveways, or muddy yards... Though I love to trail ride, I don't get very many opportunities.

 

So 5-6" seems to be the recommendation. Which kits are recommended or to be avoided. I'm pretty experienced with Cj, UK, and tj but kinda naive with the mj stuff.

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I'd like 33" tires and I'm not really interested in trimming metal if I don't have to. I really am just looking to add a little ground clearance and change the stance/ride height of the truck. It's my work truck and some times I've gotta drive super uneven acces roads, driveways, or muddy yards... Though I love to trail ride, I don't get very many opportunities.

 

So 5-6" seems to be the recommendation. Which kits are recommended or to be avoided. I'm pretty experienced with Cj, UK, and tj but kinda naive with the mj stuff.

I drive on those kinds of roads with my truck on 235/75-15 tires with spacers and upcountry front springs and new GS leaves with Chevy drop shackles (a hair over 2" front lift, and about the same rear).  My truck looks a little silly, but not like it missed leg day either.  31's would be perfect for me, but I need to regear first (3.07's FTL).  If you still want that much lift, go for it.  You will definitely have ground clearance.

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