cruiser54 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Subscribed Good. We could all learn something.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 I'm a little confused, though. Wouldn't the exhaust manifold being under the intake manifold heat up the IAT in some way? Or does the intake manifold being aluminum (thats what it is, right? Looks like it...) somehow shield off the heat. I'm sure the air being sucked in somehow keeps a steady temp on the IAT as well, though. I've seen people move them to the intake tube itself or the airbox and I've wondered if it effects their performance in any way. I just hope I can figure this problem out, finally. For me and Dadinator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I'm a little confused, though. Wouldn't the exhaust manifold being under the intake manifold heat up the IAT in some way? Or does the intake manifold being aluminum (thats what it is, right? Looks like it...) somehow shield off the heat. I'm sure the air being sucked in somehow keeps a steady temp on the IAT as well, though. I've seen people move them to the intake tube itself or the airbox and I've wondered if it effects their performance in any way. I just hope I can figure this problem out, finally. For me and Dadinator. I always move the IAT. I have monitored the temps with my DRB before and after the move. Way cooler in the airbox. Like ambient. Clean it when you move it. I then put a vacuum fitting in the intake manifold and run a line from it to the MAP sensor using spare plastic tubing. The throttle body hole (lower one) can then be plugged by tapping it 1/8 NPT (no drilling required). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 didn't i see on the forum somewhere tthat someone had used an OEM GM TPS at a far lower price than Mopar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 didn't i see on the forum somewhere tthat someone had used an OEM GM TPS at a far lower price than Mopar? I don't believe it was a OEM. I know an OEM would work if used but the post was about how aftermarket ones are actually cheaper than the 4.0's aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Update time! Cleaned the IAT and put it back in the stock place. While it was out I tested it using my lazer temperature gauge to estimate the temp on the tip. I.left it in the sun until it read a steady 100F and the OHM's were at about 1400. On the CTS I tested it once it got a little over the first line on the trucks gauge. I'm guessing around 130F. The ohms on the CTS were 675. I adjusted my TPS to .84 after the bored out TB swap. 17% of the supply voltage was .83725 so I rounded it out to .84. The truck runs no different. Other than the bored out TB giving a very crisp throttle response... also, new problem has occured. I thought it was a one time thing but its happened the last few times I've ran the truck. At idle it will run fine and then after a few seconds it will idle down real low and act like its going to stall out. During this situation the fuel pressure raises and once it catches itself and idles up the fuel pressure goes back to where it was. This happens 3 or 4 times per crank. Seems to stop once it runs for a certain period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 I also tested the O2 sensor heater relay with the key ON engine OFF (as per the instructions I was sent through PM.) And the orange wire only had like .08V on it when it was supposed to have 12-14. The black wire had the 5 volts it was supposed to though. And the ground had less than an OHM. What should I do about that low voltage orange wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Progress. Gotta get power to the O2 sensor heater or it doesn't work. Have you shuffled the relays all down one slot on the right inner fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Progress. Gotta get power to the O2 sensor heater or it doesn't work. Have you shuffled the relays all down one slot on the right inner fender. not yet, but I will next chance I get and will test the wire again. Will the O2 sensors voltage still fluctuate rapidly if the heater doesn't get the proper voltage? Because I remember testing the new 02 sensor when I replaced it and it fluctuated how it was supposed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Progress. Gotta get power to the O2 sensor heater or it doesn't work. Have you shuffled the relays all down one slot on the right inner fender. not yet, but I will next chance I get and will test the wire again. Will the O2 sensors voltage still fluctuate rapidly if the heater doesn't get the proper voltage? Because I remember testing the new 02 sensor when I replaced it and it fluctuated how it was supposed to. That would seem a bit odd, but when the heater is working, the O2 goes switching in under a minute. How long had it run before you tested it that time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 It ran until it was completely warmed up if I remember correctly. 210 degrees. Probably about 15-20 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 I wonder if it was heated enough by the exhaust. Check the power to the orange wire with it running for fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Should the orange wire have power as soon as the truck is running or will it have to warm up before it gets power, IF it gets power? Planning on checking this soon and was wondering. Since the orange wire actually heats up the sensor (from what I understand) it makes sense that it would be powered as soon as the truck is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 At a bare minimum, it needs to work with the engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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