SomeNew Name Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 As far as I knew when bleeding brakes.. you start with the brake where the fluid has to travel the furthest and then work you way to the shortest... but appearently in my MJ Maintenance Manual.. it requires that the front right caliper bleed screw must be open throughout the rear bleeding process... this is so that the pressure differential valve is in a full forward position, and helps with the height sensing valve... can I ignore that jazz.. and just do the normal bleed procedure?.. or should I do it the way thte book wants me too?.. which I think is retarded.. cause height sensing valve isn't even hooked up... Also this is my first time bleeding the brake on a car.. I've done this many times on an aircraft but they're to totally different animals. Anything I should keep an eye out for beside the resovior going dry... what should I look for in the fluid that is comming out of the bleed screw to know that it's time to move on to the next bleed screw? and anyother lil bit of info would be nice.. thanks guys Cheers Eugene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 two words: speed bleeders goto your local parts store, I know that advance carries them, in the Help! section you'll find speed bleeders. They are by far the handiest thing I ever put on the truck when it comes to maintenance. Just crack the bleeder, and keep pumping the pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomeNew Name Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 nah.. I'm doing it to old fashioned way... just waiting for someone to answer my questions before I start.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 As far as I knew when bleeding brakes.. you start with the brake where the fluid has to travel the furthest and then work you way to the shortest... but appearently in my MJ Maintenance Manual.. it requires that the front right caliper bleed screw must be open throughout the rear bleeding process... this is so that the pressure differential valve is in a full forward position, and helps with the height sensing valve... can I ignore that jazz.. and just do the normal bleed procedure?.. or should I do it the way thte book wants me too?.. which I think is retarded.. cause height sensing valve isn't even hooked up... Also this is my first time bleeding the brake on a car.. I've done this many times on an aircraft but they're to totally different animals. Anything I should keep an eye out for beside the resovior going dry... what should I look for in the fluid that is comming out of the bleed screw to know that it's time to move on to the next bleed screw? and anyother lil bit of info would be nice.. thanks guys Cheers Eugene I agree, that is retarded. My FSM does not say that. And my load sensing valve is functional and works fine. Start with the RR wheel, then LR, RF, then finish off w. the LF. I always get Mama to help me out with the pump, hold, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, then release. One thing I do is fit a piece of clear plastic tubing over he bleed screw, and insert the other end in a clear plastic glass with an inch or so of brake fluid in it. Makes it easier to see when the bubbles stop, and having the tube in the brake fluid prevents sucking any air back into the system if you're slow closing the bleeder screw. Then I repeat the process on all four wheels to be sure all the air is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 but appearently in my MJ Maintenance Manual.. it requires that the front right caliper bleed screw must be open throughout the rear bleeding process... this is so that the pressure differential valve is in a full forward position, and helps with the height sensing valve... can I ignore that jazz.. and just do the normal bleed procedure?.. or should I do it the way thte book wants me too?.. which I think is retarded.. cause height sensing valve isn't even hooked up...If the height sensing valve were hooked up, you would have no choice if you wanted your brakes to actually work. Since it's not hooked up, you should be able to skip that step. But how did you deactivate or by-pass the rear height-sensing valve? Are you certain you by-passed it correctly? If not, you might be surprised to find that you have NO rear brakes, and that you will be unable to bleed the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sorry to bring up old thread. I replaced the two lines going to the rear. Cut the bad out and union'd the new ones in by the fuel filter. I have a solid stream coming out of bleeder screws, gets firm with engine off, spongy with engine on. I have the height sensor angled a little above horizontal so it supplies more pressure to the rear. I read that I need to crack open a front bleeder to get the safety feature to allow more pressure to rear and bleed the rear with the front bleeder open and then bleed the whole system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Hi Blaine, It's been a while since I've bled mine, but what you wrote sounds right. I remember, generally, lots and lots of time and frustration involved. And lots of brake fluid! Good luck Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 You did double flare the tubing, right? Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 thanks gene ans yes I did. I noticed while driving a pump or two orit will stiff'n up a bit with somewhat decent braking they won't lock up though. Ill try the procedure and see how I fair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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