Blaine Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 is this correct. when you setting pinion angle. even after SOA. should the pinion angle be parallel to the transfer case output shaft or 2 degree's below so it will be in line driving down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 so for the most part i know what to do for the rear. as to match the front height i know i will need the following items - (adjustable) track bar - (adjustable) upper control arms - (adjustable) lower control arms - longer brake hose - springs - shocks - longer (quick disconnect) sway bar end links where about online should i order these items, Rusty's Offroad seems to have it all but i want to know your opinions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Here's the list i went with, When i lifted mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 do the control arm drop brackets make it so u can use your stock control arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 also thanks, thats very handy!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 do the control arm drop brackets make it so u can use your stock control arms? Yes. Although many people here say you'll want to upgrade your lower control arms at the very least. As they're pretty flimsy. I ended up just getting a set of WJ control arms off Ebay, For about $100~. The lowers are the same length, The uppers are slightly shorter. Havent had any problems with them, Ride quality is really nice now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 so for the most part i know what to do for the rear. as to match the front height i know i will need the following items - (adjustable) track bar - (adjustable) upper control arms - (adjustable) lower control arms - longer brake hose - springs - shocks - longer (quick disconnect) sway bar end links where about online should i order these items, Rusty's Offroad seems to have it all but i want to know your opinions How many inches do you plan on lifting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 plan on doing the spring over axle in the rear, so it depends on how much that will give me. i know it ranges a bit due to spring wear. around 5-6 inch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 and how did you adjust for the slight shortness in the upper control arms, and drop brackets just bolt in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Okay. You are on the right track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 and how did you adjust for the slight shortness in the upper control arms, and drop brackets just bolt in? Took the same length, in shims out of the lower control arms. Yea, They bolt in pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 can't really do ebay. thinking more like uncle henry's or craigslist I ended up just getting a set of WJ control arms off Ebay, For about $100~. The lowers are the same length, The uppers are slightly shorter. Havent had any problems with them, Ride quality is really nice now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 could you possibly get a pic. of what the wj upper and lower control arms look like? ive looked online and there are so many and i don't know which ones they are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 could you possibly get a pic. of what the wj upper and lower control arms look like? ive looked online and there are so many and i don't know which ones they are http://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-18282-21-Front-Control-Cherokee/dp/B0042AHET4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1392258262&sr=8-9&keywords=grand+cherokee+lower+control+arms http://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-18282-20-Front-Control-Cherokee/dp/B0042AF7Y8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Nice thing is, The lowers are curved a little, To help clear larger tires at full turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 okay, i don't see what you mean by shims in the lower control arm? won't that bring my tires back towards the rear more and does it matter what year they come out of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 okay, i don't see what you mean by shims in the lower control arm? won't that bring my tires back towards the rear more and does it matter what year they come out of You can always just get lower arms, Uppers are usually fine stock. There are stock alignment shims in the lower control arm mount, When i added my drop bracket i removed them, to make up for the slight difference in the uppers length. We're talking like 1/4 inch. I THINK its 99+ Grand cherokee control arms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 okay, i don't see what you mean by shims in the lower control arm? won't that bring my tires back towards the rear more and does it matter what year they come out of The shims are packed at the rear of the LCAs. Thicker shims move the wheel forward; thinner shims the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 2* down is best from my research as long as you're staying with stock shaft style and not going SYE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 is that lists constantly updated? i like the drop brackets but i want the ground clearance behind my tire, don't want it to be banging off rocks and getting hung up. but what would the ride be like with just the adj. control arms? for maine pot holes. eh, i guess either way i go i could always change it if i don't like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 so after you do a SOA you put and angle finder on the drive shaft and make differential 2 deg. below parallel? basically you need the rear diff. yoke to be in line with the driveshaft, only 2 deg. off for axle movement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 is that lists constantly updated? i like the drop brackets but i want the ground clearance behind my tire, don't want it to be banging off rocks and getting hung up. but what would the ride be like with just the adj. control arms? for maine pot holes. eh, i guess either way i go i could always change it if i don't like it. I havent done a ton of wheeling on mine yet, Just lifted it about a month ago. But from what i've seen/heard about it, the brackets are close enough to your tires that if your tires are going to clear the object, the bracket will be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 another thought, i have a thread going about driveline angles, and I'm starting to get the drift of it. but will this make it so my pinion yoke is too high to get proper gear oil to it. unless a crossmember drop kit is added. i have a longbed and stock driveshaft, with slipyoke. i don't want my rear diff looking like this which leads me to another Q. what would i do with front driveshaft angle with this much lift, i have my CAD locked in so the shaft is always spinning and i don't too excessive angle on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Here's good resources. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Double-Cardan-Measurements http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 another thought, i have a thread going about driveline angles, and I'm starting to get the drift of it. but will this make it so my pinion yoke is too high to get proper gear oil to it. unless a crossmember drop kit is added. i have a longbed and stock driveshaft, with slipyoke. i don't want my rear diff looking like this which leads me to another Q. what would i do with front driveshaft angle with this much lift, i have my CAD locked in so the shaft is always spinning and i don't too excessive angle on it can't answer your first question, But the front driveline is completely fine. I know a SYE isnt needed for 5-6" of lift though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 If you still have a slip yoke this is completely wrong!!!!! You will have tons of drive-shaft vibrations. When using a slip yoke style you want the pumpkin slightly down from parallel to the transfercase/transmission. If you are using a double cardon drive line and a SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR (SYE) then you want the pumpkin parallel to the drive shaft as pictured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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