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So, the big difference between fwd and rwd 3.8's is the location of the starter. It swaps sides. While the fwd and rwd blocks are more or less the same, they may not be drilled to have the starter on the "wrong" side. But the bolt pattern will be the 60°V6 pattern, with maybe a slight and insignificant difference due to the relocated starter.

Awesome sleuthing! Definately going into my "Possible Franken-Jeep" file. Thanks!

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To throw some more info on the fire pile. S10s 4x4s with 2.8 or 3.4 used a 700R4 trans and usually NP231 tcase (slightly different from the Jeep version) '89 up 2.5L came with AW4 auto as an option to the 904, which will also bolt to the 2.8.

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This is going to seem like a cop out.....but, it depends.  On what, you ask:  How flat/peaky is the torque curve of the mill you're throwing under the hood?  Peaky?  You're going to need 5 or more very tightly spaced gears to keep in the power band.  Is the torque curve relatively flat?  You can get by with a standard 3 or 4 speed auto in most conditions with an engine like that. 

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Keeping the 2.8? You're brave., brother. ;)

 

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/60degreeV6/

 

Check that site out. Basic tricks, but cool nonetheless. For the 2.8, I'd go with a 700R4, a manual valve body (my personal preference) and, just to weird y'all out, a Toyota T-case. Why the toyota box? Well, there are a lot of cheap ultra low gearing options for toyota cases, adapting them to GM tranny's is easy now, and they're pretty tough. Also, having an ultra low low range may be a benefit with the 2.8. Even though it had more HP, it was basically on par with the 2.5 4 banger when it came to torque.

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