Aluminum

[HOrnbrod]

damn that's a long post.

 

Agree.

[zagscrawler]

lol come on horn quit padding those post #'s :yes:  just kidding buddy :cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

lol come on horn quit padding those post #'s :yes:  just kidding buddy :cheers:

 

 Don't agree on that one mate.  :cheers:

[zagscrawler]

lol   I sure hope I get to meet some of you in person some day.  what a b*@$£ it is to tell when yall are kidding when in writing ;)

[earl*t]

Hey Zag, have you been working on a bunch of beers again? :laughin:  Thanks for ALL that information. :eek:  Actually, I rely on these smiley guys so as to not come off as a smart___. If you can't see a fella grinning when he says something to you, or hear the inflection in his voice, how could you know he's joking? Or in the case of your previous post, when you can't see the blank stare on my face, how would you know I don't have a clue what you're talking about.  And you couldn't hear me snoring because that post was so long  that I fell back asleep. Z-Z-Z-Z-Z-Z :rotf: Thanks Don!  Now, back to the topic.

 

You guys have no idea how much I rely on your information. The problem is determining who knows what there talking about and who's just full of hot air. I plan on keeping my MJ for the duration, so I want it right. Some might say, leave well enough along. Few of us here do. But, what is right and here do you stop? That's my dilemma here. My vision for the Eliminator was to freshen up the appearance and keep it reliable. In that vein of thought, I presumed that the ride high would be more pleasing to the eye if it were raised a few inches. That would also allow larger diameter wheels and tires as is the current trend. I want to keep the frontend solid, maintain good ride quality, and protect the investment of expensive tires.

[Oyaji]

But, what is right and here do you stop? That's my dilemma here. My vision for the Eliminator was to freshen up the appearance and keep it reliable. In that vein of thought, I presumed that the ride high would be more pleasing to the eye if it were raised a few inches. That would also allow larger diameter wheels and tires as is the current trend. I want to keep the frontend solid, maintain good ride quality, and protect the investment of expensive tires.

.

Sounds like your target is not so different from mine, but I am not as inclined toward style. I am definitely of the "form follows function" school of thought. If it is performing its intended purpose, then the form it takes will look right - it will look as it should because it performs as it should.

.

There are a number of things my truck will have to do well (or well enough). I need four wheel drive because I still pull trailers not infrequently. I hate getting stuck out behind the barn on wet grass after a rain has caused the tires on the loaded trailer to sink far enough that I'll have to get the tractor out to move it if I don't have 4x4. I also need to be able to drive across sand to launch a boat from the beach. One thing I DON'T need is major flex or clearance: both mountains and boulders are in conspicuous short supply down here on the flatlands of the coastal plain. That is good because I am frugal and out to get the best fuel economy I can, and stuff like high lifts and big tires crush gas mileage and bring with them all sorts of other problems and considerations.

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The Comanche fits the bill as a basic platform, and will need little modification from stock to suit my needs. This is good because some of the best minds in the country (even the world) were hired by the manufacturer as engineers, and it is hard for me to think I could all by myself do a better job than all their combined expertise. When I do depart from the basic platform I want to make sure that I do not degrade the performance already designed in at the factory.

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To that end I am looking to go 31" tires little or no wider than stock, on 16 or 17 inch rims to preserve road handling by limiting sidewall height (and thereby limiting sidewall flex under cornering load). They'll be an all-season road tire (with tread as aggressive as is available for a road tire), 6-ply rating (or better if I can get them) so I can air them up good and hard for load carrying capacity and for reduced rolling resistance to retain or improve fuel economy. I expect I'll be running either 3.55 final drive with a 5-speed, or 4.10s with an AW4 so as to maintain proper gearing. If I can't  lock the brakes, I'll try to find bigger   rotors/drums that will fill the bigger space inside the wheels.  I'll add them if the cost is not prohibitive, otherwise I'll go the route of increasing brake pressure with a better booster so that I can lock the wheels on demand. I may add an inch of lift, but only if it adds load capacity and retains road handling - otherwise I just don't need it. I may "down-cam", giving up some top-end horsepower to boost bottom-end torque and fuel economy, depending on the truck I end up getting and whether or not I can source a cheap VM 2.5 (or better) bolt-in diesel for a swap. I'll probably end up adding a number of gadgets (I think an ABS project with custom chip programming would be really cool) if I find them useful, but I don't expect to depart very far from the pretty darn good foundation I started with by fixing things that ain't broke.

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Earl, as I read you I think your goals for a street MJ are not so far off what I am after. Here is one more consideration for you - if you do go with aluminum for your tie rod, expect electrolysis between dissimilar metals, made worse by the road salt in your environment. I think you could spend your money more wisely on other upgrades that will do a lot more for you, but what the hell - buy you some "man-bling" if it makes you happy. :)

[earl*t]

Post edited

 

[earl*t]

"Man Bling" :jump: You slay me Oyaji! Let me first state that the deed has been done, $ wise. The unit is just waiting for a home. Excellent point on the dissimilar metals. I'll coat the threads with a generous amount of anti-seize. I agree that we're not that far off on our goal. The 17s I'm running are equivalent in diameter to 32s. Pretty close by my standard but probably a mile off by engineering standards. :dunno: I've been trying in earnest to follow the path of enlightenment those helping here are leading me. :thumbsup: To this end, I understand that all the components were engineered to work together for efficiency, reliability, and so on. Now that I have lifted and installed larger tires, I've compromised the original design of the steering system. This much seems elementary. My solution to correct this issue as stated before is overkill and expensive. I know it is possible to accomplish this correction much more cost effectively, but hey, I can't take it with me. For the sake of argument, lets call the draglink/tie-rod assembly a done deal and move on to the associated steering components. While I'm at it, I may as well go all the way. Next is an aluminum track bar ................ :teehee: Please, you have to know I'm just kidding!!! I'm looking toward a JKS track bar, Kevin's Offroad (KOR) steering brace, steering stabilizer, and sway bar mounts. I think (need to do more research) I'll mount the driver's side tie-rod over the knuckle utilizing a Goferit kit.

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/xj-front-adjustable-track-bar-4-lift-normal-shipping-p-1164/

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/hardkor-steering-box-brace-for-8401-xjs-powdercoated-p-839/

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/hardkor-replacement-steering-stabilizers-xjzjtjyjljjk-outstanding-death-wobble-resistance-p-417/

~ http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

[Oyaji]

ummm... why?

[HOrnbrod]

"Man Bling" :jump: You slay me Oyaji! Let me first state that the deed has been done, $ wise. The unit is just waiting for a home. Excellent point on the dissimilar metals. I'll coat the threads with a generous amount of anti-seize. I agree that we're not that far off on our goal. The 17s I'm running are equivalent in diameter to 32s. Pretty close by my standard but probably a mile off by engineering standards. :dunno: I've been trying in earnest to follow the path of enlightenment those helping here are leading me. :thumbsup: To this end, I understand that all the components were engineered to work together for efficiency, reliability, and so on. Now that I have lifted and installed larger tires, I've compromised the original design of the steering system. This much seems elementary. My solution to correct this issue as stated before is overkill and expensive. I know it is possible to accomplish this correction much more cost effectively, but hey, I can't take it with me. For the sake of argument, lets call the draglink/tie-rod assembly a done deal and move on to the associated steering components. While I'm at it, I may as well go all the way. Next is an aluminum track bar ................ :teehee: Please, you have to know I'm just kidding!!! I'm looking toward a JKS track bar, Kevin's Offroad (KOR) steering brace, steering stabilizer, and sway bar mounts. I think (need to do more research) I'll mount the driver's side tie-rod over the knuckle utilizing a Goferit kit.

 

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/xj-front-adjustable-track-bar-4-lift-normal-shipping-p-1164/

 

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/hardkor-steering-box-brace-for-8401-xjs-powdercoated-p-839/

 

~ http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/hardkor-replacement-steering-stabilizers-xjzjtjyjljjk-outstanding-death-wobble-resistance-p-417/

 

~ http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

 

Consider the Addco #570 1-1/8" dia. front sway bar too along w. 1996 Ford F350 rear sway bar end links.   The larger dia. bar does a great job stiffening up the front end, and the longer beefier Ford end links are perfect for a 2"-3" lift to keep the bar ends away from the coils.

[earl*t]

Thanks Don. I'll look into it. Any insight you can offer will be greatly appreciated.

ummm... why?

Which why? By the way, this Jeep will not see salt, maybe sea salt, but definitely not see salt.

[HOrnbrod]

The front swaybar is an MJ-specific ADDCO 570. The best price I found was from Kolak (Nick). http://Kolak@aol.com.  It also included greasable center bushings.

 

The end links I used were MOOG K80035 (Fit 1985-1997 Ford 350 Rear Bars)

 

This setup works real well for me.

[Oyaji]

 

 

 

ummm... why?

Which why? By the way, this Jeep will not see salt, maybe sea salt, but definitely not see salt.

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Good deal regarding salt. Though you are still on the warm side of the Mason-Dixon line, I feared you might have salted roads in winter.

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You said you wanted to protect your investment in tires as the reason for front end upgrades, but I don't think you have any worries from the added height from the tires. Have you put a lift under it already? If so, then these guys can advise you, but if not, again you have no worries about protecting tires unless they rub. If they do, I think you'd be better off to just adjust your steering stops instead of lifting a street truck.

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Maybe I am misreading your goals?   

[earl*t]

The front swaybar is an MJ-specific ADDCO 570. The best price I found was from Kolak (Nick) @ Kolak@aol.com. It also included greasable center bushings.

 

The end links I used were MOOG K80035 (Fit 1985-1997 Ford 350 Rear Bars)

 

This setup works real well for me.

 

:thumbsup:  On it. Don, would you care to weigh in on my "list of ridiculousness"? In all honesty, I don't know which components are subject to fatigue and which will enhance performance. 

[earl*t]

Oyaji. Your geography is dead on. The road salt here is horrific. My DD is a "rust bucket" as a result. My Eliminator will soon be going into hibernation. We've already experience a few snows of a couple inches last week which quickly melted.

The tire fitment necessitated a lift, 3" worth, as previously stated. Stay focused Oyaji! :laughin: I'm just messin with ya. I see you're on a bazillion threads and I'm sure the facts run together.

You're also correct on the tire rub. It is minor. Your suggestion coupled with a little massaging of the fender flares will suffice. That is until I acquire a little more "man bling", aluminum control arms. :shake:

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-COMANCHE-MJ-HEAVY-DUTY-7075-ALUMINUM-FRONT-LOWER-ADJUSTABLE-CONTROL-ARMS-/260993261893?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc4692145

[earl*t]

How about one of these bad boys? Man bling to the nth. (of the 2 wheel variety)

 

 

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product596.aspx?id=4172

 

Don't be alarmed Oyaji. :rotfl2: Just more ridiculousness, if one were so inclined.

[Oyaji]

Oy vey - you've already fallen down the rabbit hole then. You're in good company though, and I am sure the guys out there ahead of you will be full of advice.

.

         

[earl*t]

What a terrific diversion! Funny thing is, my post this morning was incomplete. I unwittingly got lost in my own head, I mean thread, and was about to return to the original topic: "ALUMINUM".



In the cyber world, it's all free...but, it leads to mental warpage. :eek: And yes, I have unfortunately fallen down the rabbit hole.

Hey Oyaji, it kinda sounds like you're about to bail? Hang on there dude. I'm thinkin the only major difference in our goal is engine selection. It seems there are only a few 2 wheel guys here, one of whom is Mr. Hornbrod and he is light years ahead of me.

FYI - the Hesco head application is for HO engines only.

[HOrnbrod]

 

The front swaybar is an MJ-specific ADDCO 570. The best price I found was from Kolak (Nick) @ Kolak@aol.com. It also included greasable center bushings.

 

The end links I used were MOOG K80035 (Fit 1985-1997 Ford 350 Rear Bars)

 

This setup works real well for me.

 

:thumbsup:  On it. Don, would you care to weigh in on my "list of ridiculousness"? In all honesty, I don't know which components are subject to fatigue and which will enhance performance. 

 

Good products all on your list. However I opted for the OME steering stabilizer bar and Teraflex track bar on my rig just because I've had good results with both manufacturer's products.

 

And the below (as shown with the rollers) is next up for the stroker:

 

[earl*t]

I recall a post in which you installed sway bar mounts that improved the bar's location, I think JK's. I assume the diameter matched the 1 1/8" Addco bar.

 

Kevin of KOR claims his offering is equivalent to Old Man Emu in quality for less $. I'll reconsider and check out Tera Flex as well. Thanks again.

[earl*t]

Would you mind directing me to your thread so I won't ask rhetorical questions?

[HOrnbrod]

Here's the thread for the relocation brackets. I bought them because I anticipated clearance problems with my JK rear sway bar adding the thicker OME shocks. Turned out it wasn't a problem, so I reused them on the MJ sway bar since I had them. They raise the sway bar ends to about 20* above horizontal which supposedly is the ideal, but they are not really needed.

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/38552-sway-bar-relocation-brackets/?hl=relocation

 

As far as posting pics on the site, it rejects images not tagged with .jpg, .gif, or other graphic file extensions. So you have to copy the pic and upload it to a host site like Photobucket.

 

I know Kevin, good guy. Bought my headers from him years ago. He wasn't sure they would fit an MJ at the time but sent them to me anyhow to try out. I played his test pig, they fit perfectly, and he gave me a good discount.   :yes:

[earl*t]

Is any of this needed?  :laughin:  I really like how approachable so many Jeep vendors are and often willing to work with you.  Photobucket = :fs1:

[Oyaji]

What a terrific diversion! Funny thing is, my post this morning was incomplete. I unwittingly got lost in my own head, I mean thread, and was about to return to the original topic: "ALUMINUM".

 

 

In the cyber world, it's all free...but, it leads to mental warpage. :eek: And yes, I have unfortunately fallen down the rabbit hole.

 

Hey Oyaji, it kinda sounds like you're about bail? Hang on there dude. I'm thinkin the only major difference in our goal is engine selection. It seems there are only a few 2 wheel guys here, one of whom is Mr. Hornbrod and he is light years ahead of me.

 

FYI - the Hesco head application is for HO engines only.

.

No, I think it best to just read as you go your own way. It will be interesting to follow your progress, but you are going down a path I won't be taking. I am interested in economy and utility, and am reluctant to depart from safety and reliability. To be honest, I am not sure where you are going... but it looks to be fun,  a bit dangerous, and expensive. :)

[HOrnbrod]

Oyaji, I don't follow your posts that much, but from the little I've seen you do post an interesting comment occasionally. Thanks for taking the time to do that; it makes for interesting reading for some of our members on the forum. Unfortunately I've seen nothing in your signature regarding your personal MJ(s) and have never seen any posts detailing your rig. I'm just curious as to what model you have, any modifications you have made, and would love to see some photos of your rig.

 

If you have introduced your MJ previously, I apologize for for missing it. Obtuseness maybe on my part.