Adjusting the Parking Brake

[UNL1MTD]

Well, I installed the parking brake main cable in the MJ and it worked good. Then I swapped axles and now I can't get it to hold on a flat surface. It doesn't chagne the resistance in the drums at all.

 

Anyways i followed the instructions in the haynes manual.

 

10 forward reverse stops

5 sets and releases of the parking brake lever

set the parking brake at the fifth click

place MJ on stands

tighten adjustment until cables are taught

set and release, set then test

 

Its not working for me, i have tried tightening the nut more, but it has no affect. I popped off the drums and all the cables are connected for the parking brake, however I can't honestly tell the difference when looking at the drums when the ebrake is set or not.

 

Couple Notes:

-The ebrake cables are slightly uneven, off by .5 inch at most, pass side is shorter.

- The brakes need to be bleed (does this affect the parking brake?) But the bleeders are torn off, so I can't bleed right now.

-The long spring/lever that holds the adjuster level firmly against the adjustment wheel is missing on both drums. I think this might be the root cause.

 

Any help is appreciated, I'm getting frustrated. I got my new windshield and shock bolts installed. The rear brakes are holding it back from getting inspected.

[87manche]

-The long spring/lever that holds the adjuster level firmly against the adjustment wheel is missing on both drums. I think this might be the root cause.

 

this is a problem.

 

As is the brake bleeding. The brakes need to work in order to self adjust.

[UNL1MTD]

-The long spring/lever that holds the adjuster level firmly against the adjustment wheel is missing on both drums. I think this might be the root cause.

 

this is a problem.

 

As is the brake bleeding. The brakes need to work in order to self adjust.

 

Ok, I spent the last hour or so outside futzing with it and still am In the same position. Evidently they changed some things on how the drums work over the corse of 10 years and my friends 97 tj, of which I was doing the mental comparison has a slighty different setup. I compared my drums to those in the haynes manual and they appear to be setup correctly. The self adujustment lever is held in place by two spring on the later drums, and just one on the early drums.

 

I'm thinking the brake bleeding is what is missing here. Its about the only thing that makes any sense of which I know that needs to be done. I just can't get those little friggin bleeders out. I'm really thinking about dissembling the entire drum and replacing it with the other set I have. This can be done right?

 

At first I thought there might be enough room to weld a nut to something, but I'm now very doubtful. Anybody have any suggestions for removing bleeders?

[87manche]

if the bleeders are broke off then you're f-ed, don't bother with them, new wheel cylinders are $12 a pop and will come with new bleeders.

 

I'll take a picture of a complete D35 backing plate I keep around for reference.

[UNL1MTD]

if the bleeders are broke off then you're f-ed, don't bother with them, new wheel cylinders are $12 a pop and will come with new bleeders.

 

I'll take a picture of a complete D35 backing plate I keep around for reference.

 

yea I think I'm going that route for tomorrow. I did manage to get one out though. I beat on a 9mm deep socket (12 point) and it bit into what was left and it turned out. The other side is completely fed up. Looks like the PO snapped it off at the threads. :roll:

 

I'm so close to having this thing road worthy. Just keep hitting these stumbling blocks.

[Eagle]

Ummmmm ... I hesitate to point this out, but y'all DO know, don'tcha, that the self-adjust feature doesn't work worth patooties even when it works at all? You know those little slots on the brake backing plates, beneath and to the front and rear of the wheel cylinders? Those are there, guys, for the sole purpose of adjusting the brakes. You stick a tool called a "brake spoon" into the slot and turn the star adjuster wheel to expand the shoes until they just barely make contact with the shoes. THEN you adjust the parking brake.

 

If the brakes aren't adjusted manually first, you'll never get the self-adjusters to work, even with new wheel cylinders. The self-adjusters are not intended to adjust the brakes, they are intended to maintain] the adjustment once you have set it manually.

[UNL1MTD]

Ummmmm ... I hesitate to point this out, but y'all DO know, don'tcha, that the self-adjust feature doesn't work worth patooties even when it works at all? You know those little slots on the brake backing plates, beneath and to the front and rear of the wheel cylinders? Those are there, guys, for the sole purpose of adjusting the brakes. You stick a tool called a "brake spoon" into the slot and turn the star adjuster wheel to expand the shoes until they just barely make contact with the shoes. THEN you adjust the parking brake.

 

If the brakes aren't adjusted manually first, you'll never get the self-adjusters to work, even with new wheel cylinders. The self-adjusters are not intended to adjust the brakes, they are intended to maintain] the adjustment once you have set it manually.

 

never hesitate to state the obvious when I ask a question, especially about drums. But I did know about adjusting the star wheel to expand the shoes out. On my passenger side there is always too much drag. So much that I can not turn the drum towards the front of the vehicle, even with the additional leverage of installing a tire it still is locked up. I can turn the drum by hand towards the back of the vehicle. I can drive the MJ and it moves without feeling like there is resistance, but without firm brakes I haven't really driven it on a substaintial test drive. My gut is telling me its all connected to bleeding, adjusting the star wheel, and adjusting the ebrake, but I sorta have the feeling that maybe a return spring isn't working for the secondary shoe or something.

[Wildman]

Some thought on this - Are your wheel cables free, move easy with in the cable, or frozen up, Replace them, about $14 each. Not turning the wheel by hand sounds like a cable hanging up. If you took the equalizer up alot, and ones longer than the other, cable could be hanging up.

 

Are the brake shoes installed properly, there is a leading shoe(front), and a trailing shoe(back){more bonding surface} this could be a problem, and a common mistake.

 

I would not compair a MJ's brakes with a '97 TJ's, that would have anit-lock brakes. 2 diffrent worlds.

 

Do as 87manche saids for the broken bleader, also check ALL of your hard and soft lines, and replace anything that don't look good, easyer to do it all at once, than piecemeal it latter. one step bleading. and could save you a flag on the inspection.

 

For $8-10 each, you could get a complete hardware kit for the springs(each side), and the self adjusters(right and left kit) and what $$ you spend on the kits, would save you HourS of time trying to fix a problem.

 

Also make sure the wheel cyls and the adjuster are on the proper sides(right and left) switched adj's would tighten up a wheel as you drive and cause drag.

 

As Eagle stated, get the brakes working properly first, and Manually adjusted and then fine tune the parking brake adjustment. If the brakes are installed properly, the self adjusters should work on there own, and no additional adjustment should be needed to the parking brake.

[UNL1MTD]

Some thought on this - Are your wheel cables free, move easy with in the cable, or frozen up, Replace them, about $14 each. Not turning the wheel by hand sounds like a cable hanging up. If you took the equalizer up alot, and ones longer than the other, cable could be hanging up.

Are the wheel cables the small cables inside the drums that connect the adjuster lever to the top retainer stud? Or the parking brake cables that go to each wheel? The springs that hold the adjuster levers are extremely tight, not sure if thats a good thing or not.

 

Are the brake shoes installed properly, there is a leading shoe(front), and a trailing shoe(back){more bonding surface} this could be a problem, and a common mistake.

I will have to look when I get home today, but I'm honestly not sure. Besides bonding surface are there any other ways to distinguish the shoes?

 

I would not compair a MJ's brakes with a '97 TJ's, that would have anit-lock brakes. 2 diffrent worlds.

Actually his doesnt have anit-lock brakes, but I agree that was a mistake.

 

Do as 87manche saids for the broken bleader, also check ALL of your hard and soft lines, and replace anything that don't look good, easyer to do it all at once, than piecemeal it latter. one step bleading. and could save you a flag on the inspection.

 

For $8-10 each, you could get a complete hardware kit for the springs(each side), and the self adjusters(right and left kit) and what $$ you spend on the kits, would save you HourS of time trying to fix a problem.

After sleeping on it, I'm thinking of just buying all new shoes, springs and hardware. Rather than fighting with old stuff which I'm not certain of the history, other than its been sitting in a field for 3ish years, I think I'm just going to pony up the cash and replace it all. Be worth the peice of mind alone.

 

Also make sure the wheel cyls and the adjuster are on the proper sides(right and left) switched adj's would tighten up a wheel as you drive and cause drag.

Are they labled R and L? On both sides the adjuster wheel is towards the back of the MJ, does that sound right?

 

As Eagle stated, get the brakes working properly first, and Manually adjusted and then fine tune the parking brake adjustment. If the brakes are installed properly, the self adjusters should work on there own, and no additional adjustment should be needed to the parking brake.

So is the parking brake dependent on a good bleed of the brakes? This would make a lot of sense to me, but just want to get a clear consensus.

[mjeff87]

Here’s a couple shots of the brake assemblies (taken when Jerry, Chuck and I swapped rear axles).

 

Jeff

 

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[87manche]

hah, jeff beat me to the photos, I was just about to post them.

 

That's what they're supposed to look like though.

[UNL1MTD]

Image Not Found

 

Thanks for the photos jeff. Only thing I see that is different in my setup is that the parking break lever, just right of the purple spring in the bottom pic is further away from the shoe. I can get a screwdriver in the space easily. But I think this is because there is air in the lines and the wheel cylinder is not expanding to push it back. This is the passenger side. On the driver's side is the adjuster wheel suspose to be towards the rear of the vehicle aswell?

[mjeff87]

yes, the driverside is a mirror image of the passenger side (the adjuster faces the rear). Like others have said, you have to have the primary brakes bled and adjusted before you adjust the parking brake, so you should spring for new wheel cylinders at this point and get that taken care of. Just be warned that you may end up twisting/snapping the hardlines that run along the axletube when trying to pull the lines out of the old cylinders, and have to replace those as well (it's a vicious circle working on old stuff....). I snapped the passenger side hardline on mine, but just cut it back to good line and used a short piece of pre-flared line (I hate flaring line) and spliced it in with a compression fitting. Been holding fine for going on 3 years now.

 

Jeff

[Wildman]

Great Pictures mjeff87 :thumbsup:

 

Unlimtd - you say that the truck, or axel sat for 3 years, you could have a lot of rust on the drums, or the brake lining is broken down, and that's giving you a problem for adjusting in the first place. There slick, not grabing at all.

 

What I ment by wheel cable, was the parking brake cable it's self, both the right and left are the same part #, not the small auto adj cable inside the drum. You also wrote that the parking brake lever is forward, that should be all of the way back, a bad cable will cause that. it works as a cam on the top of the shoes, which expand the shoe to the drum, thus setting the parking brake.

 

As you can see in the pictures, the brake lining (bonding surface) is shorter on the leading shoe, and more, or longer on the trailing shoe.

 

the adj levers should be tight, a trick is to pull the small cable back with your fingers, and the lever should move up, and release, and the lever will turn the adj screw (star wheel) that way you know that it is all put togeter right, and working. as the lining wears down this cable moves the adj wheel, thus "self adj brakes" and Eagle is right, if it works!

 

The wheel cyl's will have the bleader pointing towards the rear, that's how to tell R from L. The adjuster screw will have a R or L stamped on them, or adj wheel points to the rear, same as the adj lever.

 

Your over all hydraulic brake system will benefit on the system being blead, no air in the system. the parking brakes are indepentent of this system, that's why there also refured to as the "emergency brakes"

 

I know it's a hard pill to swallow, But, yea, it's will be a $100 bill to redo the rear brakes, But then you know it's done, and that first panic stop, you'll be glad you did it. I redo mine because I don't trust what some one else done before me. And I alway replace every thing with the new kits, It's not worth the time messing with old rusted, missing parts. I've pulled drums and see loose, broken springs laying in the bottom of the mess.

 

If you have to redo your hard lines, try to get new lines with fittings, or I buy 25 foot coils of 3/16" line, and hollow nuts and double flair my own lines up, its cost less. A double frair in not hard to do, and the tool costs $20 from harbor fright, compression fitting are not the greatest, and in NY are not legal. Will fail a inspection.

 

As you can see, there are enought people here to help you get thru this, and it's just typical Jeep repairs. ;)

 

Then we can start on the front brakes :brows:

 

And if you can wait a couple of days, this will save you a few $$'s

 

http://www.rockauto.com/

 

But heavy items, like drums, you can get local, and save on the shipping.

[UNL1MTD]

What I ment by wheel cable, was the parking brake cable it's self, both the right and left are the same part #, not the small auto adj cable inside the drum. You also wrote that the parking brake lever is forward, that should be all of the way back, a bad cable will cause that. it works as a cam on the top of the shoes, which expand the shoe to the drum, thus setting the parking brake.

How can a cable go bad? Other than it snapping I'm clueless. But I'll definitely turn some attention to this when I go back at the project tomorrow. Something of note here is that yesterday when I was futzing with it the neighbor came over and pressed in the ebrake while I watched the drums. On the driver's side the ebrake lever barely moved, but it did move. On the passenger's side there was no movement. I've been chalking this up to things just not being adjusted right, but maybe its a sign.

 

As you can see in the pictures, the brake lining (bonding surface) is shorter on the leading shoe, and more, or longer on the trailing shoe.

Good info, again I'll be looking at this tomorrow.

 

the adj levers should be tight, a trick is to pull the small cable back with your fingers, and the lever should move up, and release, and the lever will turn the adj screw (star wheel) that way you know that it is all put togeter right, and working. as the lining wears down this cable moves the adj wheel, thus "self adj brakes" and Eagle is right, if it works!

I was playing with these today and they are definitely hooked up right and working as best they can.

 

The wheel cyl's will have the bleader pointing towards the rear, that's how to tell R from L. The adjuster screw will have a R or L stamped on them, or adj wheel points to the rear, same as the adj lever.

I did buy a new cylinder today, but I got the wrong side. As a note, the left is the driver's side. The right is the passenger's side. I definitely should have went back to drama class with the whole stage right, stage left thing when picking this up.

 

Your over all hydraulic brake system will benefit on the system being blead, no air in the system. the parking brakes are indepentent of this system, that's why there also refured to as the "emergency brakes"

Great info. Its what I assumed originally, but was beginining to think the opposite for while.

 

I know it's a hard pill to swallow, But, yea, it's will be a $100 bill to redo the rear brakes, But then you know it's done, and that first panic stop, you'll be glad you did it. I redo mine because I don't trust what some one else done before me. And I alway replace every thing with the new kits, It's not worth the time messing with old rusted, missing parts. I've pulled drums and see loose, broken springs laying in the bottom of the mess.

 

If you have to redo your hard lines, try to get new lines with fittings, or I buy 25 foot coils of 3/16" line, and hollow nuts and double flair my own lines up, its cost less. A double frair in not hard to do, and the tool costs $20 from harbor fright, compression fitting are not the greatest, and in NY are not legal. Will fail a inspection.

 

As you can see, there are enought people here to help you get thru this, and it's just typical Jeep repairs. ;)

 

Then we can start on the front brakes :brows:

 

And if you can wait a couple of days, this will save you a few $$'s

 

http://www.rockauto.com/

 

But heavy items, like drums, you can get local, and save on the shipping.

 

Today I bought new springs/hardware, adjuster screws, and a wheel cylinder for the driver's side :headpop: The wrong side. I removed the passenger side wheel cylinder without having the hardline getting stuborn. Just turned right out, I almost pissed myself I was so happy. The wheel cylinder had a fair share of rust all over it and inside the rubber grommet which holds the rods on each side. I was surprised, so I decided that I would inspect the other side. I took the driver's side all apart and the wheel clyinder there is 'brand newish' on the inside. Shinny metal, so I opted to just leave it and exchange the wheel cylinder for the correct side tomorrow. When reassembling the driver's side I put all the new springs and hardware in. I opted to not get new pads. I honestly feel like the current pads have more than 50% of their life left. Tomorrow (weather permitting) I will button everything up inside the install the wheel cylinder, put together the drums, manually adjust the drums, bleed the brakes, then check the auto adjust, and last check the parking brake. In that order. Hopefully the parking brake cables are good and I don't have to take everything apart again.

 

Hell I might just get new shoes and ebrake cables tomorrow to avoid having to do this again, ever. Or I'll pull the cables from the parts MJ. I'm getting quick. If i could just get that last step of conencting the adjuster cable to the lever to go quicker. ;)

[mjeff87]

The trick to installing the e-brake cable to the lever is a pair of needle-nose vise grips. Get the nose between the spring end and the barrel and push the spring back, then clamp down on the cable. Pop it thru the slot in the end of the lever and release. Works slicker than frog snot :D

 

(thank jerry a.k.a. tjbliley for that little trick :bowdown: )

 

Jeff

[Wildman]

A parking brake cable is bad when it will not slide/pull easy they corrode on the inside of the outer sleve, there trash, cheap replacement, and you seen the right side not move, it's replacement time, the lever arm NEEDS to be in the rear position, when the cable pulls the lever, it only moves about a inch or less to apply the parking brake.

 

On my E350, the right side wheel cable had hung up, I didn't know, just driving around and I was having problems with the rear brakes, I pulled the dulleys (fun job) and popped the drum, and ended up replacing the drum at $80, and the shoes on both side, and notice the wheel cyl on the left was leaking, one that I replace 3 months earlyer new, got a new wheel cyl free, but no labor, and had to redo everything.

 

So new wheel cyl's go bad, cables hang up and cause more costly problems, and when I did the rear brakes 3 months earlyer, the cables were working as they should be. And this is on about 6k miles.

 

The rule of thumb is to replace both wheel cyl's at the same time, same as the shoes, it's not a good idea to only replace one side.

 

You wrote that the wheel cyl bleader screw was broken off, just replace it so that you can blead the system, even if it looks shinny, now's the time to do it.

 

"Quote"

"Hell I might just get new shoes and ebrake cables tomorrow to avoid having to do this again, ever"

 

That is the whole idea, that's what we been trying to tell you, just replace every thing, and your good to go. Redo the whole rear brakes, with the parking cables and you'll be done for awhile.

 

But it's a Jeep, and you will "do this again" ;)

 

UNLIMTD - You did not answer my question, if this truck was parked for 3 years, if it was, then you should redo all of the brakes, because the "organic" material in the linings will collect moisture and swell.

[UNL1MTD]

A parking brake cable is bad when it will not slide/pull easy they corrode on the inside of the outer sleve, there trash, cheap replacement, and you seen the right side not move, it's replacement time, the lever arm NEEDS to be in the rear position, when the cable pulls the lever, it only moves about a inch or less to apply the parking brake.

I think that makes sense to me. I am going to replace them. Once again I slept on it and the aching muscles was enough to not want to have to do this again.

 

The rule of thumb is to replace both wheel cyl's at the same time, same as the shoes, it's not a good idea to only replace one side.

 

You wrote that the wheel cyl bleader screw was broken off, just replace it so that you can blead the system, even if it looks shinny, now's the time to do it.

I am replacing the pass side with the broken bleeder. Its already out. I wasn't going to replace the other till I read this. Still don't 100% follow why to do this other than I should cause I'm in there. I think that the hardline attached to this one will be a lot more stubborn, so since it looked fine I was just going to leave it. I'm sure you can talk me into it, just try harder. ;)

 

"Quote"

"Hell I might just get new shoes and ebrake cables tomorrow to avoid having to do this again, ever"

 

That is the whole idea, that's what we been trying to tell you, just replace every thing, and your good to go. Redo the whole rear brakes, with the parking cables and you'll be done for awhile.

I wish I listened the first time. This is going to make for 3 times taking apart the drums. Calling for rain today, its going to suck sitting in the rain doing this tonight.

 

But it's a Jeep, and you will "do this again" ;)

Jeeps have a way of making you work on them. They need attention or something. A quote from my other board (NovaJeepers.com) "If its got tits or tires it will cause you a problem"

 

UNLIMTD - You did not answer my question, if this truck was parked for 3 years, if it was, then you should redo all of the brakes, because the "organic" material in the linings will collect moisture and swell

I actually have two trucks. The rear brakes came off of the truck that has been parked for 3 years. Now under persuassion, I'm replacing everything in the rear brakes (save maybe that wheel cylinder on the driver's side ... talk me into it). The front braking system is original to the project truck (2wd axle) it has decent pads left on it and the rotors are in good shape. This truck was inspected 2 years ago. Inspection expired in '06. It was parked for a year without inspection and only driven once a month. I wasn't planning on replacing the pads or rotors on the front, because they look to be in good shape.

 

ps - you got a dulley ... I'm jealous

[UNL1MTD]

The trick to installing the e-brake cable to the lever is a pair of needle-nose vise grips. Get the nose between the spring end and the barrel and push the spring back, then clamp down on the cable. Pop it thru the slot in the end of the lever and release. Works slicker than frog snot :D

 

(thank jerry a.k.a. tjbliley for that little trick :bowdown: )

 

Jeff

 

that is a good tip and I'll put it to good use tonight/tomorrow, when ever I get the parts to put this all back together. Got any tips for getting the adjuster cable onto the adjust lever? This is the last step to putting the drums together(or so I read) and the adjuster lever spring really makes this a PITA. I have been using a screw driver for leverage, but it doesn't really work to well.

[mjeff87]

A good set of brake spring pliers is invaluable when working on drum brakes. One of those tools you buy and use once every couple years, but you can manage the cable without one. Unhook the lower anchor spring, then hang the cable, run it around the cam guide and clip it into the lever. Then install the lever into the hole in the shoe and hold it there creatively (helps to have an extra set of hands for this), while you reinstall the lower spring. I use a huge pair of line pliers to grab the spring on the long flat part between the hook end and where it starts to coil and hook my thumb over one of the wheel studs for leverage, and pull the spring until I can get the hook into the lever. A bit dangerous, but it works (wear eye protection).

 

Jeff

[Wildman]

I think that makes sense to me. I am going to replace them. Once again I slept on it and the aching muscles was enough to not want to have to do this again.

 

What did you get sore muscles from.....it's not that hard of work :roll:

 

 

I am replacing the pass side with the broken bleeder. Its already out. I wasn't going to replace the other till I read this. Still don't 100% follow why to do this other than I should cause I'm in there. I think that the hardline attached to this one will be a lot more stubborn, so since it looked fine I was just going to leave it. I'm sure you can talk me into it, just try harder. ;)

 

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but you stated the real reason..."I should cause I'm in there"

 

 

I wish I listened the first time. This is going to make for 3 times taking apart the drums. Calling for rain today, its going to suck sitting in the rain doing this tonight.

 

I can under stand you putting it back togetter, but the plan would be to take it all apart, do all of the repairs, and put it back togetter for the final time when done.

 

 

Jeeps have a way of making you work on them. They need attention or something. A quote from my other board (NovaJeepers.com) "If its got tits or tires it will cause you a problem"

 

Ah....Yea....it's a Jeep thing, and Now you Understand ;)

 

 

I actually have two trucks. The rear brakes came off of the truck that has been parked for 3 years. Now under persuassion, I'm replacing everything in the rear brakes (save maybe that wheel cylinder on the driver's side ... talk me into it). The front braking system is original to the project truck (2wd axle) it has decent pads left on it and the rotors are in good shape. This truck was inspected 2 years ago. Inspection expired in '06. It was parked for a year without inspection and only driven once a month. I wasn't planning on replacing the pads or rotors on the front, because they look to be in good shape.

 

Ok...Now I understand, about what was parked.

 

ps - you got a dulley ... I'm jealous

 

Well....It's not that type of Dulley, It's my DD, That thing on the far left-

Oh....and part of the fleet as of mid Febuary :brows:

 

It sounds like your on your way to getting this problem fixed :thumbsup:

[Wildman]

A good set of brake spring pliers is invaluable when working on drum brakes. One of those tools you buy and use once every couple years, but you can manage the cable without one. Unhook the lower anchor spring, then hang the cable, run it around the cam guide and clip it into the lever. Then install the lever into the hole in the shoe and hold it there creatively (helps to have an extra set of hands for this), while you reinstall the lower spring. I use a huge pair of line pliers to grab the spring on the long flat part between the hook end and where it starts to coil and hook my thumb over one of the wheel studs for leverage, and pull the spring until I can get the hook into the lever. A bit dangerous, but it works (wear eye protection).

 

Jeff

 

True point about the brake tools, I've said this to my self every time I work on brakes, One of these days I'll get the right tools :roll:

 

( and Yea, I talk to my self, because no one will listen to me)

 

I like to use 10" vice grips for pulling the springs, less of a chance for them slipping off.

 

wear eye protection

 

Good point!!!, I won't tell you about an old friend, 20 years ago, that was using a screwdriver to pull the springs and where it ended up. He turn out OK after some time of healing.

[UNL1MTD]

I think that makes sense to me. I am going to replace them. Once again I slept on it and the aching muscles was enough to not want to have to do this again.

 

What did you get sore muscles from.....it's not that hard of work :roll:

haha, fighting brake springs is hard work. actually most of the soreness is from doing the axle swap saturday and attempted swap sunday, that just became a suspension project. My mind hurts though from thinking about this so damn much.

 

I wish I listened the first time. This is going to make for 3 times taking apart the drums. Calling for rain today, its going to suck sitting in the rain doing this tonight.

 

I can under stand you putting it back togetter, but the plan would be to take it all apart, do all of the repairs, and put it back togetter for the final time when done.

I have a unique parking situation at my house with my 2 roommates. Evidently we can get ticketed if we park on the street, so MJ gets dirt duty. Which means its got to be rolling everynight. Thankfully I have been able to leave it on stands last night and tonight. I opted to be halfway intelligent and just not work in the rain. I did get my new shift boot on and hurst shift knob. Really cleaned up the interior without the big hole into the trans/ground, also quickly put the anti-sway bar back on after its coat of rustoleum.

 

It sounds like your on your way to getting this problem fixed :thumbsup:

 

Yup, replacing it all (minus the driver's wheel cylinder ... flame me later). Going to have new ebrake cables here tomorrow thanks to Napa. 13 each. Advanced wanted 18 each and 1 month delivery time (insane), delear wanted 35 each and 5 days delivery time. Napa really has done me right throughout this process. I got brake shoes today, but the guy behind the counter at Advanced gave me the parts for the D44. So got to go back there again.

[UNL1MTD]

I am replacing the pass side with the broken bleeder. Its already out. I wasn't going to replace the other till I read this. Still don't 100% follow why to do this other than I should cause I'm in there. I think that the hardline attached to this one will be a lot more stubborn, so since it looked fine I was just going to leave it. I'm sure you can talk me into it, just try harder. ;)

 

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but you stated the real reason..."I should cause I'm in there"

 

wow, I got my @$$ handed to me last night as I was finishing up and the brakes on the driver's side didn't work. Everything was brand new except the wheel cylinder. Yup thats right, had to take it apart again. Didn't get lucky on the hardline this time. Got my parts today at Napa (3 dollars cheaper than Advanced Auto) and got the MJ's rear brakes working top notch. Parking brake works soooo good now.

 

Anyways I wanted to give a big thanks to those posting in this thread :cheers: and no doubt in my mind if I ever have to do drum brakes again on an axle thats been sitting ... everything gets replace on the first go at it. I got a new skill though, I can take apart a drum in 5 minutes or less and put it back together in just under 10.

[Wildman]

Unlimtd - Glad to hear every thing came to a screeching halt for you ;)

 

We have all been there, and know, with old sitting parts, just dump them all and start fresh, saves alot of time and troubles.

 

Now your sure you didn't wear out the brake drum with all of the times you took it off, and put it back on???

 

Only kidding :D

 

Now you can open up a 15 minute brake shop ;)

 

Good luck on your next project :thumbsup: