pingpong Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 WOW..... I am speaking from experience, I have an XJ with a Radias arm suspension on it ( Ford Style) and it does all right, as pointed out due to soft springs, If you consider this type of suspension Limit straps are a must, and so is spring retainers. I had a LA kit on pong that still used the stock uppers and added brackets back at the tranny x-member, and while it flexed Decent, by no means was this ideal, It seemed as if my suspension was always trying to bind under the jeep, especially in hard throttle apps. The setup I am working on now is a triangulated 4 link, I know my numbers have to be right, and a lot is going to depend on me buying the right springs for the coilovers, but there are formulas and stuff out there to help, if you input the correct data Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 I plan a 3 link with a panhard for the front of the MJ, when I rebuild it next. I'm also seriously considering linking the rear, perhaps another 3 link with panhard back there, and airbags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jslamerman Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 I had a LA kit on pong that still used the stock uppers and added brackets back at the tranny x-member, and while it flexed Decent, by no means was this ideal, It seemed as if my suspension was always trying to bind under the jeep, especially in hard throttle apps. The setup I am working on now is a triangulated 4 link, I know my numbers have to be right, and a lot is going to depend on me buying the right springs for the coilovers, but there are formulas and stuff out there to help, if you input the correct data the binding doesnt suprise me, think of the extremely different lengths of the upper vs. lower control arms, and the difference in angles at the rotation points (the joints at the frame and axle) between the upper and lower joints. As the axle drooped, the length of the upper control arm would change drastically (if you imagine an imaginary line horizontal to the ground) as it dropped, compared with a longer lower arm. Honestly, probably one of the best handling long arm suspensions for the street is probably the full traction version. I only used the RE kit because it was new, and bought for cheap from a gentleman that didnt use it, AND it is one of two suspensions that are Jeepspeed approved ( I think that says alot. FYI, the other is the Full Traction kit. It probably wouldve been the one I used if I hadnt located this, or wouldve pieced together a kit from TNT). I wish I still had the video of my short armed TJ wrangler I had with a spool in the rear, on bias Mickey Thompson 35s. It was cool, I cold lift the inside front tire turning on pavement, on comand. I videoed it in my work parking lot, got the inside tire between 12-18" off the ground. It STOPPED doing that after a longarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Dirty did mention stiffer springs being a helper in the fight. I definitely agree with that, no matter the rest of the suspension design. One of my trucks the other day lifted the rear end off the ground (just an inch or so) while coming to an emergency stop and downshifting. My rear end was very light, but also, my spring are like butta. I almost pooped as me rear end was walking away from me. Anyways, yeah, common trade off. On-road manners or off? I prefer off-road manners that are good enough to keep myself and the people around me safe while on-road, and I feel long-arms will still keep safety in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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