jslamerman

Yes.

On installation of the newer clip, I see all the studs along the hoodline line up, what about the pair of studs in the front of each fender?? The older slip has two spots beside the headlight, the newer does not??

header panel came back from glass shop cracked (go figure when someone steps there to install a windshield :cry: ), so I'm using it as a reason to update the front to 97 on up stuff (not the fenders though, as they were just painted). More pics to come, new header panel being painted at the body shop as we speak (nice guys, doing it for free as I kinda got screwed immediately after a new paint job!!)

No, I need to take a close up of the frame bracket I had to notch, so that others may do the same. It was VERY easy to modify to fit. Honestly, the hardest part is actually installing everything else after youve measured ten times before mounting the frame brackets, as they all attach to it, and some of the pieces are very close tolerance. The vehicle CANNOT support its own weght via the front or rear suspension during this, otherwise it will move, enough to cause trouble, ask me how I know!! If I were to do it again (and I would), Id support the vehicle on 6 frame mounted jackstands, avoiding the areas to be worked on.

Left to do: -remove original lower control arm mounts, clean/paint frame -brake lines from master cylinder to rear axle, install new braided line, new axle brake lines. -re-install transfer case with SYE installed -fab/have someone fab brackets for rear TNT bumper, install tire carrier and paint -order/install Detours rockrails -install the rest of RE kit (outriggers from frame mount to pinch weld, I already predrilled, just need installed), tighten all bolts, install RE monotube shocks, weld new axle shock mounts on rear -install 1 inch shorter RE HD shackles -order/install front and rear HD diff covers -install new headliner -monkey more with steering -install/find drivers side wing window latch, and sand color ashtray. -reinstall battery -herculine floor -Do SOMETHING about the stained up seat, find another. or.............??? Lots to DO!!!!!!!!!

Then, off to the body shop she went, for paint, and boy work. Since she was there for SEVEN months, I actually did some work on it there. I aquired a new/unused RE 5.5 longarm kit on the internet for cheap, and called RE. They said it had been tried, and required extensive fab work for use on Comanches. Well, its BS, some simple notching/grinding on the rear of the frame mounted brackets, and ouila!!! I installed a longarm kit on it, along with a JKS over the axle track bar bracket, and shortened the RE extreme duty track bar. The angles are still not right, but close, I have a few more tricks up my sleeve. Ill try and get more photos soon. Installed a new windshield, and Rustys flares, and during body work had the rear of the truck trimmed for a TNT bumper, but I have to make brackets, as they don't have any (for cherokees only). My tailgate is really mangled, so I didnt have it painted, and plan for a bedmount fabtech spare tire carrier to be installed. Final pics (last one of spare carrier in my old Toyota) tire carrier

Then I worked on the steering for a bit, buying a used Tera high steer knuckle, one ton tie rod ends and fabbing up tie rod/drag links

OK, uploaded a few to photobucket, its all I'm doin tonight. here's a few when I first installed the short arm lift, and then 4.88s, lockers, alloy shafts front and back, and warn hub conversion, along with 35 pro comp xterrains on 15x8 cragar soft 8s. [/img]

It took like 3 hrs to upload the after body shop pics to shutterfly, I have no patience to upload 70 pics to photobucket, that would take 2 or 3 straight days. I'm tryin to figure something out so I can get to the final paint and RE extreme duty long arm pics.

I figured since Ive made significant progress, I might as well start posting pictures. I paid (too much) $800 for the begining, a 1991 Comanche Pioneer Shortbed, HO 4.0, AX-15, NP-231, non-disconnect D30, and rear D44 (although it had 3.07s :cry: :cry: ). It had a boatload of issues, ranging from severe deathwobble (resulting from a 3 inch superlift kit, and blown shocks, and a loose steering box), no rear brakes at all (rusted rear brakeline along the fuel tank), drivers door barely shut (striker post had broken off at the sheetmetal on the doorframe, and had been BRAZED back on!!), and a leaky @$$ windshield with 6 cracks, along with a the typical amount of rust (actually, not THAT bad considering I'm in Maine!!) Here is what I started with: Looks are deceiving though!!

the binding doesnt suprise me, think of the extremely different lengths of the upper vs. lower control arms, and the difference in angles at the rotation points (the joints at the frame and axle) between the upper and lower joints. As the axle drooped, the length of the upper control arm would change drastically (if you imagine an imaginary line horizontal to the ground) as it dropped, compared with a longer lower arm. Honestly, probably one of the best handling long arm suspensions for the street is probably the full traction version. I only used the RE kit because it was new, and bought for cheap from a gentleman that didnt use it, AND it is one of two suspensions that are Jeepspeed approved ( I think that says alot. FYI, the other is the Full Traction kit. It probably wouldve been the one I used if I hadnt located this, or wouldve pieced together a kit from TNT). I wish I still had the video of my short armed TJ wrangler I had with a spool in the rear, on bias Mickey Thompson 35s. It was cool, I cold lift the inside front tire turning on pavement, on comand. I videoed it in my work parking lot, got the inside tire between 12-18" off the ground. It STOPPED doing that after a longarm.

I still disagree. There is alot to suspension design, and I am by no means an expert, but the type of behavior you are speaking of NORMALLY is the cause of the direction of engine torque (relatitve to the direction the engine, and driveshafts turn) applied to an axle that is softly sprung, in the rear (we normally run around on the street in 2wd). Its really bad on the street in a high traction stiuation, and is also worse when a spool/welded/automatic locker is installed in the rear. Youll find that street manners are CONSIDERABLY better when running around open (or something like an OX or ARB is installed so its open on the street). A properly sprung leaf sprung setup in the rear counteracts alot of these characteristics. Yes, Ive even had this behavior on my leaf sprung Yota (ALL LEAF SPRINGS, ALL 4 CORNERS), and it was because it was so softly sprung, and had a Detroit in it. I just feel this thread is taking a technically incorrect turn. The behavior you all are discussing is attributed to more by soft springs and high, postivie traction by both rear wheels on pavement. Sorry........... FYI: An installed swaybar in the front will help considerably on the street as well.

See, this is what happens when one reads too much, but not enough. All the squat/anti squat stuff on the street stems directly from TJs, linked in the REAR with long arms. It is then exajerated by the unloading of the front. You will NOT have these issues with just a long arm in the front and leaves in the rear.

Claytons will work on an MJ, but the RE kit IS NOT designed for the MJ, and they will tell you so. (They don't advertise a long arm for the MJ, just the XJ). I fitted one I got off ebay to my MJ, and with some fab work, itll fit, just have to use some patience, and a plasma helps too.

Got a really good start on the long arm kit today. Thank god for plasma, had to trim a bit off the ends of the control arm brackets where the MJ frame splays outwards (as opposed to the XJ), but man.................this kit is VERY time consuming. I spent the better part of 7 hrs mounting the control arm brackets. Had to modify the nut strips that bolt the control arm brackets to the inner framerail pinchwelds (5 on each side), they were WAY too wide, shaved at least a quarter inch off the entire length of the nutstrip in order for them to fit. It gets kinda involved with test fitting that big freakin crossmember all the time to make sure it integrates with the control arm mounts properly. I hope to finish it this coming weekend. Pics to come then!

Nope, youre not rambling, not to worry! I wouldnt have run it because of cost, but got a deal!! Like I said, Ill post up some pics, gotta remedy a situatuion with the upper control arms (looks like they were never put in the box by RE, and they won't do anything for the seller that I purchased this from because they expect missing parts to be reported within 5 days of shipping arrival, and the customer had the kit, albeit unopened, for almost a year. Sooooooooo, gotta remedy some missing upper control arms..................Ill start by installing the crossmember while I'm waiting!!! Pics to come

Ding, Ding, thats it!! I started to test fit the brackets together, and I see two SMALL interferance points. Number one, I have to notch the cab mounts (slot just beside the frame) so that the brackets will slide up against the frame fully, no biggy, and number two the brackets go past the point where the frame starts to bend outwards, still doesnt look like its going to be any problem, if it is, Ill trim the aft end of the bracket with a band saw. Ill post some pics. Boy does this kit look beefy............I love internet disinformation, I NEVER would have bought this kit because of all the negative internet hype, I am VERY impressed with the design of this kit. I hate listening to all the self proclaimed internet 4x4 engineers, who never have laid eyes on the product before, just regurgitating the information theyve heard before................. :bowdown:

I bought a new, unused XJ Rubicon longarm kit, and was wondering why RE would say it won't fit?? The kit uses the bolt holes for the transmission crossmember to bolt the control arm brackets to, and then the skidplate bolts to the brackets/transmission mount, and then the skid/control arm brackets bolt to braces that mount from the uniframe to the pinch weld using nutstrips. I was under the impression that the basic architecture of the frame up to the crossmember was the same, any thoughts??

Lots more room in the rear, issues with track bar length (obsticles like coils, axle pumpkin), and clearance above (oil pan), and front to rear clearance(all sorts of stuff, swaybar endlinks, again coils, shocks, all welded on axle brackets, steerink drag link/tie rod, etc.). I think its just a big compromise, and a good attempt at strength, and NOT having the track bar bottom out on a bracket or run out of angle like a tie rod end will.

I'm not arguing why you feel those two are better than the other two, but it still hasnt been stated why??? The ONLY differences are as follows: -RK has solid stock bar for track bar -TNT moves track bar forward at frame, uses BOTH a rubber bushing and RE end. Bracket is arguably the strongest, as they design it with no horizontal welding for a sturdier construction. -RE uses chromoly .250 wall tubing (BEEFY), and BOTH are RE joints) -Kevins is a combination welded on factory mount (weakest of all, just by design), and both ends use rubber bushings TNT/RE/RK all use fabricated HD track bar brackets, and RE has an available brace that bolts on to its bracket and crosses to opposite framerail. All above are adjustable, all use a horizontal bolt/joint at frame rail to avoid binding at full passenger side droop/driver side stuff. These are the FACTS. Sorry, not bashing, I just like the facts!! :D

I think the mis-information is in the VERSION they used. You obviously used the best version, a direct competitor to the TNT/Kevins (acutally, time frame wise, they compete with RE!!). They have (as memory serves me) two other lower priced versions that compete with "other"track bars, at least in price point (wise decision, at least from a marketing standpoint). You are correct, its down to a joint to joint comparison. The only bad thing Ive heard about the RE HD version is that the bracket come loose easily (don't know if this trait follows the other makers bars, or if its a installers problem. I'm installing this bar along with my RE longarm kit, and Ill be tack welding the bracket on on all three sides of the drivers side frame rail to hopefully avoid loosening, along with either red locktite or self locking nuts to avoid this reputed trait). The only positive design feature that I can find after some "computer research" on all of them, is that if you move your axle forward a bit (I believe TNT says up to like 1 3/4"), the TNT is the best choice, as they move the mount at the frame forward to avoid clearance issues.

That would cost like 100 bucks here!!! I hate the northeast............

Actually. looks like a Puegot would be a little over an inch shorter!! Anyone have a rear d-shaft out of a 4.0/Puegot truck??? (shortbed)

Ive got a shortbed commanche, thats now sprung over with an add a leaf. The driveshaft is WAY too short, leaving me with about an inch of spline engagement at the tcase. My question is, in order to try and avoid making a new shaft, what could possibly work for me?? I have a 4.0/ax15 combo, would a puegot/4.0, or auto/4.0 be any longer??? I have a shortbed, but I know the longbed would be WAY too log. If I have to do a new shaft, I'm going all the way, with an SYE as well................

Man, I like those.