Zebvance Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 I'm doing a ford 8.8 31 spline disk brake swap on my mj. Blew out the Turdyfive. anyway the Previous own has a huge jumble of brake lines in the rear and I'm trying to weed threw it and simplify it.I have pictures attached. The rear brakes in my 35 were barely working if at all. Can yall help me fig out what i need to do to simplfy this. Pictures would be great along with part numbers,ect. Also I would like to make the ebrakes work too. I'm not sure of the cables will reach or not but I doubt they will. I have 9 inches of lift in the rear of my mj. Also will they even wok with the existing ebrake system? Here are the pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 The stock MJ master/booster will not push enough fluid to accommodate the 8.8 discs. Would should plan on an 95/96 XJ upgrade also. As for the E-brakes. The passenger side cable will be long enough to reach the stock bracketry. It will snap right into place. I removed the driver side cable off the 8.8, and ordered another pass. side cable. So basically you need to run two pass. side cables and they will work fine. For the brakes, I used a stock 8.8 rubber brake hose and it threaded right into where the oem MJ rubber brake hose attached to the hard line. I removed the hard line attaching bracket and pulled it down lower to accommodate my 4.5" lift. Your lift might be too much for the stock rubber hose, but should be able to source a longer one easy enough. I left in my load sensing valve, and am using it to fine tune how much fluid goes to the rears. Once I find the perfect angle of the lever, I will lock it down. If I end up removing the rear load sensing valve, then I will swap in an XJ proportioning valve to compensate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Wait about all the extra lines I have in the pictures. Can you take a picture of yours. Also I want to bypass the load sensing valve. And I have also been told I don't need a proportion valve with disk brakes. Just drums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 I'm still learning this as I go, so probably not the best person to advise you about the proportioning valve. From my research, I have come to the conclusion that if you can run either valve with equal success. If you want to delete the load sensing valve, then you need to plug one of the ports on the MJ proportioning valve so that there is but a single line going to the rear. I think there are some good threads in the DIY section. Like this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 I'm still learning this as I go, so probably not the best person to advise you about the proportioning valve. From my research, I have come to the conclusion that if you can run either valve with equal success. If you want to delete the load sensing valve, then you need to plug one of the ports on the MJ proportioning valve so that there is but a single line going to the rear. I think there are some good threads in the DIY section. Like this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/ So the driver side e brake cable looks to be way to short of course. But the pass looks to be way to long. Do you have a long bed mj? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 A progress shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 I'm still learning this as I go, so probably not the best person to advise you about the proportioning valve. From my research, I have come to the conclusion that if you can run either valve with equal success. If you want to delete the load sensing valve, then you need to plug one of the ports on the MJ proportioning valve so that there is but a single line going to the rear. I think there are some good threads in the DIY section. Like this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/ So the driver side e brake cable looks to be way to short of course. But the pass looks to be way to long. Do you have a long bed mj? Short bed. The cable on mine starts out pointing to the front, then in a long sweeping arc, goes back to the top of the pumpkin where it is attached to an oem addell (sp?) clamp. After the clamp, it makes a loop so it can change direction and go straight into the bracket. The other side mirrors it. If you need a picture, i'll take one, but can't at the moment. This was the cheapest way I could figure to get e-brakes. Only having to purchase one cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Another update photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Still need help with the brake lines guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Those axles have a habit of the tubes spinning inside the diff. Either weld the truss to the pumpkin, or weld the tubes the whole way around to the cast where they enter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Here is what mine looks like now: No more octopus of doom. I swapped in a ZJ proportioner upfront and eliminated the one of the two rear lines from the MJ distro block. I chose to get rid of the line that came directly out of the front of the distro block. The second rear line screwed right into the ZJ proportioner and then I just hooked my braided line to the other end. Pretty simple, just be prepared to fight the line fittings. My Jeep has no rust and the lines were still a major pain to do. 6 hr total no joke. Sorry kinda crappy pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Those axles have a habit of the tubes spinning inside the diff. Either weld the truss to the pumpkin, or weld the tubes the whole way around to the cast where they enter. I should be good. The diff is plug welded to the tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Here is what mine looks like now: No more octopus of doom. I swapped in a ZJ proportioner upfront and eliminated the one of the two rear lines from the MJ distro block. I chose to get rid of the line that came directly out of the front of the distro block. The second rear line screwed right into the ZJ proportioner and then I just hooked my braided line to the other end. Pretty simple, just be prepared to fight the line fittings. My Jeep has no rust and the lines were still a major pain to do. 6 hr total no joke. Sorry kinda crappy pics. Ok so I'm confused. Why didnt you just plug the line where it went into the load sensing valve instead of removing it? What was the purpose of swapping the proportion valve? And why did it take so long just to do what you did? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Lol the time was because every fitting was corroded and wanting to strip. I swapped the zj prop cave because it provides proper front rear proportioning for disc brakes. The stock MJ "prop valve" is just a distribution block. The proportioning gets done at the rear load sensing valve. I wanted to eliminate the junk I didn't need, so I just removed all the stock mj proportioning stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 can u take a picture of the prop valve? sorry if I'm being a pain. just trying to fig this out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 can u take a picture of the prop valve? sorry if I'm being a pain. just trying to fig this out No big deal at all. I'll snap a pic when I go to lunch. The valve is connected to the lines coming right out of the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 cool thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 This is what I got. All original MJ lines and a ZJ proportioning valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 What year zj prop valve so I can get one. And is your rear a disk 8.8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 93-98 I believe. And yes mine is a disc brake axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Did your stopping power improve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjustinx Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I feel like its pretty good. I can lock em up no prob with 33 inch km2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Yea I have never been able to lock up my mj with 32s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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