77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 i had this issue with my 96 but thats to late of a model to matter here and i actually lost power to one of the feed wires on the ignition switch it would run just fine with it turned to start but as soon as i would let off the key every thing would lose power Ill test those tonight. What terminals are supposed to have power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 The wire that goes over to the fuse block? or something else? It was a while ago, but I'm almost positive it was one of the small red wires next to the battery, going to the starter realy okay thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 This may sound like a stupid question, but where is the Ignition switch? it is dark out side and I am quiting for tonight, but i didnt see it on the bottom of the collum did i miss it? or is it located else were? I know on the ford i had to change the ignition switch on it was mounted to the bottom of the collum... Last time i bought one of those book's it was a waste of 20 buck's Ill never do that again, and yes it is a Auto, but i had a 97 that the NSS went out on and it wouldnt turn over at all, this one does turn over sometime'sWhen you have questions like this, you need a simple reference with pictures and step by step instructions.. Thats what I was referring too. More power to ya using other methods.. i agree that steps and pics help. but never had luck with haynes manuals. didn't mean to come across as a smart @$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 The ignition terminal (I) on the solonoid and the Ground (G) terminal should have a resistence between the two of around 22 ohms with the wires disconnected. From either of those two terminals to the neg battery cable should read infinity on the meter. If none of the above, then the relay is bad. (or not grounded?). If the relay is good, with the Ground and ignition wires hooked back up, and the solonoid (SOL) wire disconnected, you should read battery voltage with the key in the start position. If not, then your ignition switch is bad or not adjusted correctly. One other option would be a bad connection at the bulkhead connector. All this assumes your NSS is operational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Since it does crank sometimes would that eliminate the nss? Forgot to mention. can't get my turn signals or brake lights to work either. head lights work fine thou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Since it does crank sometimes would that eliminate the nss? Forgot to mention. can't get my turn signals or brake lights to work either. head lights work fine thou Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 I just went back and saw this post. Sure makes me believe you need to clean some connections somewhere. Did you test for battery voltage at the I terminal wire at the relay with the key in start? If no voltage there, work your way backwards and you will find the problem. , truck was laid on it's side Saturday in a mud pit, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 No gauges, fuel pump not priming, turning over intermittently and all of it in a very brief period of time. Sounds to me like a faulty battery ground. How old is the cable? When was the last time you refreshed the terminal clamps and cleaned the studs? You would not believe the kind of havoc a slightly loose or corroded battery terminal can cause. battery terminal looks alright. it is tight. ill check the other end tonight. I'm not sure how old the ground from the battery is thou. Looking does nothing, you have to physically remove the ground cable and thoroghly clean both contact points, I would HIGHLY recommend getting some new battery clamps as well. There are several other grounding locations to be aware of as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Look for "ground refresh". The more i have come to know my MJ the more i have come to relize 90% of all the problems i have had have been ground related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 I just went back and saw this post. Sure makes me believe you need to clean some connections somewhere. Did you test for battery voltage at the I terminal wire at the relay with the key in start? If no voltage there, work your way backwards and you will find the problem. , truck was laid on it's side Saturday in a mud pit, it ran fine for 2 days thou so i don't see that being the issue. not saying some connection aren't bad but not do to the roll over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 No gauges, fuel pump not priming, turning over intermittently and all of it in a very brief period of time. Sounds to me like a faulty battery ground. How old is the cable? When was the last time you refreshed the terminal clamps and cleaned the studs? You would not believe the kind of havoc a slightly loose or corroded battery terminal can cause. battery terminal looks alright. it is tight. ill check the other end tonight. I'm not sure how old the ground from the battery is thou. Looking does nothing, you have to physically remove the ground cable and thoroghly clean both contact points, I would HIGHLY recommend getting some new battery clamps as well. There are several other grounding locations to be aware of as well. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Look for "ground refresh". The more i have come to know my MJ the more i have come to relize 90% of all the problems i have had have been ground related. By look into it i meant take them off an take a wire brush or grinding wheel to the surface an connectors. the battery clamps were recently changed maybe 2-3 months back when the new red top optima was installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Since it does crank sometimes would that eliminate the nss? Forgot to mention. can't get my turn signals or brake lights to work either. head lights work fine thou Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds. bulkhead connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Since it does crank sometimes would that eliminate the nss? Forgot to mention. can't get my turn signals or brake lights to work either. head lights work fine thou Makes it sound more like a power distribution problem or a ground issue. I'd pull the bulkhead connector apart and clean it. I'd really look into the cables and grounds. bulkhead connector? The very farthest right hand corner of the engine bay. Its where all the wires run into the cab compartment. It is held on by a single 1/4" hex head bolt, in the very center of the connector. You will need a deep well 1/4" drive socket and ratchet to loosen it. The bolt itself does not come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Okay thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 I can't get it to turn over at all this afternoon. got a ground or 2 i have to relocate or something because i can't get broke loose. also i got a aroma of burnt wire smell around the main fuse panel beside the battery.... also no power anywhere to my ignition switch none of the prongs have power to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Then i would say some, if not all of the inline fuses are burnt on the wires going to your starter relay. You would never know it because of the heavy duty insulation that covers the "fuse" section of the wire. You did say the starter relay is new right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 The one in the fuse block there? no, only thing new is the starter it's self. i pulled the bottom off the fuse block and could not see anything that was burnt, but i disconnected the battery and the smell eventually went away, or atleast i think it did, reconected the battery and it seemed to of came back. is there a diagram some where so i can see what prong on the ignition switch is supposed to have power to start with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Isn't there a fusible link in the battery area? All my YJ's have them, so perhaps if there is one on the MJ, you melted it. I'll look at the electrical diagram in a bit.... Edit: I see three fusible links listed in the starter relay area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Isn't there a fusible link in the battery area? All my YJ's have them, so perhaps if there is one on the MJ, you melted it. I'll look at the electrical diagram in a bit.... Edit: I see three fusible links listed in the starter relay area. Then i would say some, if not all of the inline fuses are burnt on the wires going to your starter relay. You would never know it because of the heavy duty insulation that covers the "fuse" section of the wire. You did say the starter relay is new right? I said the same thing. :dunno: and there are definately more than three, i will have to check mine later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77mud Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Ran a new power sire to the ignition switch, cranks every time now, also stays running, Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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