Electrical, Fun Fun.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Its actually not that bad, this writeup helps a TON if its your first time.

 

 

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

[ftpiercecracker1]

Ok, dash is out. Using my multimeter i tested all known grounds, lowest/most sensitive setting is 200ohms.

 

 

 

 

Black lead of multimeter was on this wire for all tests.

 

 

Every solid black wire i tested read with less than .9 ohms of resistance. Which tells me each of those wires have a solid connection to the above grounding location. But the problem still remains.

 

I will be putting a video up here so you guys can see exactly was is going on.  I have narrowed it down to something in the plug that goes into the back of the cluster, the plug right next to the speedo cable.

 

 

 

The gauges work normaly with HeadLights off, but do this when i turn HL on. Fuel gauge has a mind of its own and is not affected by anything i do. I am starting to think its just the pointometer thingy. 

 

 

 

And the gauge lights don't come on with headlights. Do you know which fuse is responsible for them? A while ago i found a loose fuse to be the culperit for them going in and out, but not this time. All other interior electrical works great, clock, radio, cigarett lighter, vanity mirrors, B pillar lights, floor board lights, even my fancy new rear view mirror with map lights.

[87manche1]

Ill check tonight

[ftpiercecracker1]

After completely tearing into the wiring harness, i found the mother of all wire bundles.

 

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There are about 30+ ground wires here and every. single. one. Goes to that single grounding point.  :shake:

 

I tested my fuel guage itself and it does work, so now its on to the wiring. Is there any definitive way to test the sending unit itself?

[87manche1]

Yea with an ohm meter i don't know the ohm value at what level tho.

Fuse is 5 amps says instrument lights

[87manche1]

http://www.jeeptech.com/electrical/gauges/

I don't know how accurate this is.

[87manche1]

Ok i tested a spare i had 104ohms empty 1 ohm full should ramp smoothly

[ftpiercecracker1]

Yup, I now know for certain it is the pointometer in the sending unit. I am working on a way to make or refresh the old one.

 

Appreciate the info on the ohm reading.

 

I think my multimeter is my new best friend, I never knew it could be so useful.

[ftpiercecracker1]

What am i supposed to put in the report box so i can get these bastards out of here, they are really starting to piss me off.  :mad:  :headpop:  :soap box:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EDIT: thanks mods  :cheers:  Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

[ftpiercecracker1]

Well SOB, i solve one problem only for two more to spring up. Dash lights all work great now as well as all interior lights. But now my blinkers are on the fritz. I have no blinkers to speak of, they don't even click.

 

 

The Driver's side HL, side indicator and lower indicator are all bright and appear normal.

The Passenger side HL works, the lower indicator works very intermittently and the side marker doesnt work at all. The blub, socket, wiring, ground, and crimps in harness are all good all the way to the firewall. The problem is somewhere in the cab. Headlight switch is good as are all fuses (checked three times and replaced any questionable ones)  I did a test using my mulit meter to compare side marker sockets. This is what i am reading. . .

 

 PASS: blue wire - 12 volts   /    Brown wire - 7.50 volts  <<< something is wrong here. :wall:             DRIVER: blue wire - 12 volts    /   gray wire - .13 volts

 

 

P.S. I don't know if this effects blinkers or not but the BED IS NOT ON.

 

The other thing that has arisen is the 'low' setting on my wipers has quit. Before i fixed it only the low and high worked, no intermittent, but now the intermittent and high work, but not the low. Since both the wiper and blinker controls go through the same toggle on the steering column i am starting to look very hard at it.

 

Ftpiercecracker.

[ftpiercecracker1]

I do think i have found the problem. After spending hours tracing i have finally determined what i think to be the problem. This would also explain my strange guage behaviour.

 

 

Where can i buy a new one of these V v V  The copper/plastic thingy that goes on the back of the guage cluster.

 

 

 

 

These are a couple, of what appear to be, broken sections in the copper ribbon.  I actually have known about these breaks for quite a while but havent given them much thought because the dash lights work.

 

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[HOrnbrod]

What are the numbers coppered on the circuit foil? I have a stack of these left over from when I was repairing/calibrating cluster gauges.

[ftpiercecracker1]

What are the numbers coppered on the circuit foil? I have a stack of these left over from when I was repairing/calibrating cluster gauges.

 

 

That would be awesome!   

 

OP-088-01

546-0089

[HOrnbrod]

10-4. I'll check and see if I have one tomorrow. From a 1990 full gauge cluster si?

[ftpiercecracker1]

Si senior full cluster, 1990 swb 5spd 4x4 Eliminator, white.

 

Do you think my analysis is correct?

[HOrnbrod]

Si senior full cluster, 1990 swb 5spd 4x4 Eliminator, white.

 

Do you think my analysis is correct?

 

You obviously have damaged traces on the foil so there's a good chance that's the problem. Some of these foils are two layers, so there may be problems on the backside too. It needs to be replaced/repaired for sure. You can't get the foils anymore except from a compatible cluster.

[ftpiercecracker1]

You obviously have damaged traces on the foil so there's a good chance that's the problem. Some of these foils are two layers, so there may be problems on the backside too. It needs to be replaced/repaired for sure. You can't get the foils anymore except from a compatible cluster.

 

That is precisely what i was dreading to hear you say. I assume the only compatable ones are on MJ/XJ from 87-90 with the full cluster? Sometimes i really hate having such a unique truck, :fs1:but i wouldnt get rid of it for the world. :thumbsup:

 

I am just keeping my fingers crossed that you have one to spare. :crossfingers:

[HOrnbrod]

Well, I checked and all I have are for the HOs. These won't work for you. I must have thrown out the Renix cluster stuff some time ago. Sorry mate.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Appreciate you lookin, got any idea where one can be found besides a JY?  What exactly are these strips even called??? 

[HOrnbrod]

They are called Conductor, Printed Circuit in the parts manual, and of course are no longer available. Your best bet (probably only bet) is to p/u a new cluster at the yard or Fleabay.

[ftpiercecracker1]

I have some semi "good" news. In a last ditch effort i did some searching about soldering the connection and found several threads that inspired some hope. I went and picked up an el cheapo soldering iron from ACE and tried my hand at it. Let me tell you, I SUCK at soldering. But either way i got a wire to stick on each side of the worst break. It actually worked, kinda. The light output has doubled but is far from the normal. It went from a barely glowing element to actually visible light. I checked the volts and they went down dramatically, from 7.50volts to .25volts. I think i have done all i can do to salvage the old circuit board so the next step is to rustle up a new one.

 

ftpiercecracker

[HOrnbrod]

Those breaks on the foil circuit board look like they have been caused by heat, i.e. short circuits in the cluster, either the circuit foil and/or the gauges themselves. I think that even if you did luck out and find another correct "Conductor, Printed Circuit" (there are several for the full gauge clusters, even the ones with column shift and floor shift are different), the same thing will happen again. I would suggest replacing the whole cluster with another unit is your best course of action at this point.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Those breaks on the foil circuit board look like they have been caused by heat, i.e. short circuits in the cluster, either the circuit foil and/or the gauges themselves. I think that even if you did luck out and find another correct "Conductor, Printed Circuit" (there are several for the full gauge clusters, even the ones with column shift and floor shift are different), the same thing will happen again. I would suggest replacing the whole cluster with another unit is your best course of action at this point.

 

 

I was wondering this as well. Things don't happen for no reason and i am still fighting to figure out what the reason might be. I am still working on the wiring for the cluster and i am getting some very strange readings. I think i have some seriously crossed wires, which is odd because just about everything works on the truck, that is except the stupid passenger side marker. :fs1:   

 

As of right now All interior and exterior lighting works. I just remembered I downloaded an electrical FSM one of our members posted on here a while back, that should really help with figuring this thing out once and for all.

 

Something i want to run by you is the fact that i have totally removed both the EGR and Emissions Timer wiring. I can't imagine how this could have caused any problems but maybe you have heard something different?

[HOrnbrod]

W/o the Electrical FSM specific to your model I have no idea. Many devices use the same ground, power, and signal sources via multiple splices, as you know. By taking out wiring for one device it may take out a completely unrelated device, especially in the Renix system with it's kluge of 100,000 sensors that all interact with each other.  :yes: