Volt meter erratic

[vaquaro]

This has never happened before :???: Volt meter suddenly dives , blib the throttle brings it back to normal for a while . The belt is not loose . Also on one occasion , there was soft click sounds ( about 30 sec. apart ) coming from the starter area with the hood open and ignition off . I'm not sure these symptoms are related ? So your opinions / experience is welcomed .....Alternator failing ?.....Short in starter or wiring ? :shake:

[cruiser54]

Acts very similar to my 87 just before the diode/rectifier bit the dust inside the alternator.

[vaquaro]

Acts very similar to my 87 just before the diode/rectifier bit the dust inside the alternator.

:( Thanks cruiser , I thought the same thing but was paranoid about MJ electrical gremlins unknown to me . On the positive side , I might as well get the alternator re-wound to 100 amp + at the same time :yes: :cheers: Gord

[cruiser54]

Acts very similar to my 87 just before the diode/rectifier bit the dust inside the alternator.

:( Thanks cruiser , I thought the same thing but was paranoid about MJ electrical gremlins unknown to me . On the positive side , I might as well get the alternator re-wound to 100 amp + at the same time :yes: :cheers: Gord

 

Here's something worthwhile to do so your gauge is more accurate:

 

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground

 

The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it.

 

This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.

 

The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.

 

Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal.

 

Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.

 

Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.

 

**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

 

 

Revised 11-29-2011

[cruiser54]

Acts very similar to my 87 just before the diode/rectifier bit the dust inside the alternator.

:( Thanks cruiser , I thought the same thing but was paranoid about MJ electrical gremlins unknown to me . On the positive side , I might as well get the alternator re-wound to 100 amp + at the same time :yes: :cheers: Gord

 

Here's something worthwhile to do so your gauge is more accurate:

 

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground

 

The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it.

 

This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.

 

The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.

 

Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal.

 

Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.

 

Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.

 

**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**

 

 

Revised 11-29-2011