Jump to content

Engine dies on deceleration

Recommended Posts

We have cleaned the throttle body and have done the following: crank sensor, stator, idle air control motor, oxygen sensor, EGR solenoid (we cleaned the EGR valve), ignition wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor and fuel filter. In addition I've replaced the muffler, heater core, blower, resistor, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, PVC assembly, vacuum harness and battery. Do you think an EGR valve can appear to work but not actually be working... Needing to be replaced?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



Valve Opening Test

1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,

rapidly open and close throttle. Open throttle sufficiently to obtain

at least 1500 RPM. Movement should be noticed in EGR diaphragm.

2) If diaphragm does not move, probable causes are: faulty

vacuum signal to EGR, defective EGR diaphragm or defective

backpressure sensor diaphragm (if equipped), or leaks in vacuum lines

or connections.

Valve Closing Test

1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,

manually depress EGR valve diaphragm. RPM should immediately drop,

indicating that EGR valve is not leaking and had been properly cutting

off exhaust gas flow at idle.

2) If there is no change in RPM and engine is idling

properly, exhaust gases are not reaching combustion chamber. Check for

plugged passage between EGR valve and intake manifold.

3) If engine idles poorly and RPM is not greatly affected by

manually moving diaphragm up, EGR valve is not closing off exhaust gas

flow. Check for carbon between pintle, leaking EGR valve gasket or bad

EGR valve.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...