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Overhead console for '97-01 swap


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I finished adding an overhead console from a 2001 XJ in to my 1997 swap. You can probably apply some of the same principles to an older generation, but I've never looked at one, so you'll have to compare yourself. If you are planning to do this, when looking for a junkyard console, look for one that has the same wiring as your year; it makes things so much easier. There are three possible differences (mine had them all). At some point in the years, different wires were moved to different plugs. If you find that your new harness is different, you can disassemble the plugs and move the pins where you need them. That one isn't too bad. Backdraft took these pictures; I hope he doesn't mind me using them for this DIY.

 

To unpin the leads, pop the little plastic retainer clip up from the connector like this...

Then pull it completely out like this....

 

After that just go into the the backside of the plugs to push down the little metal keeper that holds the wire in place.

 

It really helps to have a precision screwdriver set to do this.

 

Another possible problem is the keyless entry. The 2001 wiring has two less wires than the 1997, so I had to remove the overhead console wiring from the 2001 harness and integrate it into my 1997 harness - big pain. The other and final problem is that the lighted vanity mirrors switched from one wire to two wires at some point (which is why I put the overhead console wiring into my '97 harness instead of putting the '97 keyless entry portion into the 2001 harness).

 

The other thing you need to check is to see if there is an available plug for your ambient temperature sensor at the front of your truck. I was lucky and already had it. I'm not sure if all of the vehicles have this or not.

 

So when you figure out your wiring, just loosely plug everything in to make sure it works. Then you can dismantle the console.

You have two main pieces that will need to be trimmed down approximately 10" - the main outer frame and the rear portion with the map lights.

 

I suggest you make the frame modifications first and then cut the rear panel down to fit when you're done. I made first cut by removing the rear portion just after the kick up on the panel and then installed it on the roof to get an idea of how much I needed to section out.

Here is the breakdown of where I made my cuts. Take note that I kept the tabs on the rear portion to hold the rear maps lights in place.

You will also want to remove the cross bracing as well. Once you have your length down you will need to epoxy the rear portion back to the front. The front section is wider than the back so I used some zip ties to hold it to the right width.

I used vice grips for the first hour of curing to hold everything in place. I use a two part plastic weld epoxy and then filled the gaps with JB weld. Once it dries you should end up with something like this:

You will have to make a lot of little trims here and there to make it fit correctly. Here you can see a little trimming and shaving that I did on the back of the sunglass holder:

Here is the trimmed down outer portion with the rear map lights:

My epoxy skills are severely lacking, but here is a shot of some relocated mounting holes for extra strength on the bottom of that same piece:

At this point you want to make sure that everything fits well together and your sunglass holder will open (because of the tapering). Then you can apply your headliner material.

You will need to cut a slot in your headliner for the rear mounting portion and some additional slots for the wiring, but this is what you get:

Now you'll notice that 1. I've got the keyless entry board in the garage door opener spot (still need the cover) and 2. there is a gap between the console and the headliner. The headliner curves while the console does not. I'll have to do a little work to make it match (I may just end up using some velcro strips).

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