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Clutch repair/replacement


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Hi guys, you've helped me out with questions before. So surprised there is no DIY thread for changing a clutch. My head is spinning with all the searching and reading about different situations others have been involved in with their clutch repair/replacement.

 

I've got a '87 Comanche 6 cyl 4x4 with the original Puegueot 5 speed tran.

 

I've bought an Exedy complete kit from Amazon, it just arrived today. While waiting for it, I've learned throughout here of possible reasons to change Clutch Mast cyl and slave cyl. also changing the cable, and changing the rubber hose between Clutch Master Cyl and slave cyl. I've read your guys' reasons for going with a OE replacement Clutch Mast cyl and the slave cyl(that's also the throw out bearing right?) that comes with all both Clutch cylinders and all hoses involved in the entire system?

 

I plan on keeping this truck as long as I can. I've come to the conclusion our Clutch systems are not like most other vehicles either US or Japanese. I want to confirm all parts that probably should be changed out so I won't have to deal with old/original failing components in the near future.

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So, here's my list of possible things to be changed.

 

1-Disc 2-Pressure plate 3-Slave cyl/throw out bearing 4-Pilot bearing 5-Flywheel(necessary according to Exedy warranty requriements) 6- Clutch Cable 7- Clutch Master Cylinder 8- Clutch hose

 

I'm still not completely clear on this, but #'s 3,7,8 would be done with the purchase of a Complete Clutch Hydraulic Assembly from a Jeep dealer?

 

I do live in semi-rural Alaska and part orders can take as few as 2-3 days and as many as 3-4 weeks(possible but rare) so I want to dive into the job as few times as I'd have to and would like to acquire all necessary parts before starting the repair.

 

Family and friends have said it's not necessary to replace the flyweel. Exedy warranty say it should. Not sure which way to go with that.

 

If I've missed something please, please point it out to me

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What clutch "cable"?

 

You should have a master cylinder, a combination throw bearing & slave cylinder, and a tube/hose to connect them. The connector should have metal tubing on both ends and a length of flex hose in the middle.

 

Definitely replace all three. I skipped the flex hose on my XJ when I did the clutch, and halfway from home to a trail ride in Maine the hose blew at a toll station on the Massachusetts Turnpike. I had to drive 100 miles back to home with no clutch. Possible, but not fun.

 

I'll also suggest using DOT-5 silicone brake fluid instead of regular brake or clutch fluid. It seems the aftermarket and rebuilt clutch hydraulics don't typically last very long, and if the master cylinder leaks it'll likely ruin your fuse panel. IMHO the silicone is not as likely to leak, and if it does it won't corrode the electrical connections.

 

The safe approach is to replace the flywheel. If it looks good and doesn't show any heat spots or cracks, you could probably re-use it. Problem is, you won't know until you have it out. I didn't replace it on my XJ, but I bought that new and I'm the only driver, so I knew I had never slipped it or overheated it. For my 87 MJ, I bought that used and the clutch was funky from the day I got it, so I'll put a new flywheel on that when I do the clutch as insurance.

 

Whatever you do, DO NOT resurface the old flywheel. The factory service manual specifically says not to, and many who have tried it anyway have regretted it.

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Thanks Eagle, the clutch cable I listed shows my earlier confusion with this job. You've helped me simplify it so easily.

 

I Contacted a Jeep dealer near me in Seattle. They're quoting $185.39 Master cyl with a short shaft and

$262.71 Slave cyl.

 

Tried to get a complete system like BLHTAZ was taliking about in another post- Master cyl, hose, slave cyl- but found out he was referring to a complete clutch hydraulic system for a '94(ext slave cylinder).

 

Besides their length, what is the difference between the long shaft and the short shaft? Which do I need?

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Ok Eagle, so glad you have the time and patience to reply to my questions and concerns.

 

Best dealer price I've found for a Clutch Master Cylinder w/short shaft is $252(in Cali). Slave Cylinder for $232(Seattle area) is the best price I've come across.

 

Based on the measurement given by one of the Jeep parts guys- the short shaft(approx 3 1/4"- 3 1/2") appears to be what is what is on my truck.

 

While searching I'd come across some dead links to what were desscribed then to be decent dealer parts at great prices. Does anyone have a current place to buy Jeep parts that are not marked up all that much?

 

This clutch repair/replacement is nearing $600-$700 just in parts alone, glad I'm planning on doing all the labor myself, . Not sure if that is the norm, sure seems pretty steep.

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While looking for the better prices online Ive come across rebuild kits for both the Cluth Mast cyl and the Slave cyl. I wonder how that would work out?

 

If I'm the one doing the rebuild on both units I would know how well the work was done. Just trying to tackle this problem from a different angle.

 

Like most of the other posts I've read, it doesn't hurt to save a lil' bit of money if the job can be accomplished without sacrificing the end result of competent replacement/repair.

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The problem most people report from using either aftermarket clutch hydraulics or rebuild kits is that they start to leak after six months or less. The originals in my '88 Cherokee lasted from January 1988 to somewhere around 1999 or 2000 ... a modest 204,000 miles, with no leakage. Finally did the clutch at 204,000 because the release bearing part of the slave assembly started growling. I asked my retired Jeep service manager friend what he recommended for parts, and he said, "How long did the factory parts last you again?" I may not be the brightest bulb in the string, but I can take a hint when you whack me over the head with it.

 

Trouble is, the old XJs and MJs have been out of production so long that aftermarket now seems to be the only choice. That's why I favor using DOT-5 silicone brake fluid in the clutch (as well as the brakes). It isn't corrosive, and it isn't hygroscopic. It costs more than regular brake or clutch fluid, but who wants to drop a tranny and transfer case every six months to replace another leaky slave cylinder?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, the parts that needed to be shipped to me are slowly coming in. I've got a Clutch master cylinder and a Slave Cylinder from a Jeep dealer in Cali.

 

Here's a pic of the 2, the Clutch master cyl looks correct as it's easy to see right under the hood. Does the Slave cyl look correct?

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Need confirmation from someone before I tear into this project. I don't want to start the job without having the correct parts in hand. It's not as easy as driving over to a Jeep dealer and getting the correct parts if I find any sent to me are wrong or broken. Any clarification would be appreciated.

 

I've been searching for proper pics or diagrams, hints, tips, pointers and suggestions when I have a chance for weeks now. Even the most current posting for help didn't really address the issues that he had asked http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?uid=29710&f=2&t=31810&start=0

 

Was glad to find out that jimoshel suggests to only raise the rear of the truck as it may keep the transmission closer to level when removing it. He also suggests to use a couple of studs or bolts with their heads cut off to help with the aligning of the transmission when pulling and also putting it back on.

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87 model with an external slave cylinder? Better double check that. Just finished that project on my 89 MJ. The top 2 bell housing bolts are a 6 point star head (14MM) when you get them out, throw them away and get you a couple of 3/8 bolts the same length. Got my slave and master cylinder from ClutchCityOnline.com. fast shipping and works so far.

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