Brake system problems

[Guanaco.13]

My Mj a year ago the brake light turned on and my brakes have been getting weaker and weaker over time I have to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor to stop. The pads, routers, and drums all look fine the routers are in speck and are not warped. The pad are wearing even and have plenty of pad left. I have checked the brake lines and from what i have seen their is no leaks. the master cylinder has plenty of brake fluid so what is the F@#$ing problem. :mad: :headpop: :fs1: :wall:

[Paul Bruchal]

I have the same problem. All I did was bleed the breaks.

Now I stop faster but my light is still on.

[Guanaco.13]

OK I was thinking of bleeding the brakes tomorrow thank you for the help hopefully that is the problem. Will it pass inspection with the Brake light on I have to get it inspected this weekend :wrench:

[Comanche County]

I recommend you flush the brake lines. If they've never been flushed then there's a good chance you'll have condensation in the lines with a vehicle this old. Just get a hand vacuum pump and suck all the old fluid out while having a helper keep the MC full. Start right rear, left rear, right front, left front, suck the old fluid out on each one until you see new clear fluid coming out. You can pick up a vacuum pump at any auto parts store cheaper than a brake shop will charge you for a "power flush".

[flint54]

And, be sure to search here (or elsewhere) for the specific bleeding procedure if you still have the height sensing valve on the read axle. Also, if bleeding doesn't completely solve this, I suspect the master cylinder is failing. Good time for dual diaphragm brake upgrade id so. The brake warning light switch is on the proportioning valve next to the MC.

[jimoshel]

Not sure if he meant the stop lights are on or the dash brake failure light. If brake warning then Flint54 is correct. If it's the stop lights , then the problem is the switch operated by the brake pedal. Remove it. Spread the gripping fingers out a little and re install.

[Guanaco.13]

So today I tried to bleed the brake and I bled and bled the brakes and never got brakes so I found the problem the brake booster had rusted out around the master cylinder and was letting air into the system. so I need help should I order a rebuilt master cylinder and booster or is there a up graded one better than the oem one i can buy. please help I need to order it tomorrow :fs1: :headpop: :mad: :grrrr:

[Comanche County]

I'd go with a Dual Diaphragm booster....from a WJ or similar. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26034&start=0

[Guanaco.13]

I'd go with a Dual Diaphragm booster....from a WJ or similar. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26034&start=0

 

OK so where did u get that handy dandy HF flare tool that I believe only cost me about 8 bucks. :popcorn:

[flint54]

Any good auto parts store (NAPA, for example) should have a flare tool kit.

 

If you haven't flared brake line ends before, I encourage you to make some

practice flares on scrap until you like the result.

 

You will really appreciate the braking difference this mod will provide.

[Guanaco.13]

will my old master cylinder fit the wj brake booster