2.5L running like c@#p after head done.

[Grant]

I had my head done after an overheat/head gasket failure. It actually ran prety well with the blown gasket, spit water out of the manifild side center though. The coolant was milk shake looking. the oil was untouched. The head was out .010 so it was planed, the presure test was good after.

 

I took the opportunity to replace all the manifold bolts with new ss 1.25's and all new washers. The special belliview for the intake and the machined washers for the exhaust. it went together real well. no issues with the assembly. I did not disassemble the intake manifilod at all. Left it and the exhaust as one unit and put it back as so.

 

Is it possible that I have wires from the harnes in the wrong spots. I don't think so by the different size connectors etc but who knows.

 

Also the brass fuel fitting on the right side of the tbi broke so I had to extract the threads and replace. Whats inside that opening that might get damaged by an easyout?

 

I replaced the plugs as well. that made it start better but it still have a big miss or two

!

[dakal]

crap. i hate it when you do work and you still have a problem or problems.

[Grant]

especially when you don't have any left over bolts, nuts, washers, or parts and it all goes bak together nicely!!

[500 MJ]

check for vac leaks, all sensors hooked up?

 

I don't dwell in the 2.5L world often, don't know much else to look at.

[Grant]

I did the visual vacume leak inspection. all hoses were back where I took them from. I thought about the propane detection system aka unlit burn-a-matic :)

as far as all the sensors go, I'm sure they are all connected. just hopeing that I didnt cross any connection. I don't see how I could with the harness and the plug types the way they are though.

[alleydog]

I used to run into this problem all the time with the old GM 2.5 like in a cutlass cierra. I think the problem there was with the lifter not adjusting in far enough after grinding the valve and seat. I think the right way to fix it is to put in new lifters, but you can cheat a little by shimming a little under the rocker pedestal. I used pop or beer cans sometimes. Start by doing a compression test to see if thats even the problem.

[Grant]

Wasn't bad lifters. It was bad eye sight and feel

2 of the pushrods 1 on cyl 1 and 1 on cyl 4 weren't sitting in the lifters! It's much better but not real smooth like before the overheated.

now it runs on all 4 cylinders BUT it smokes something fierce.

 

Any ideas.

 

I might be looking for a 2.5L short block vin "H" if somebody has one.

[alleydog]

is your exhaust system full of coolant? If it is, just beat it down the road a couple miles, it'll clean out.

[Grant]

I have scored a 89 2.5 w/ 100K on it. running, 400.00 delivered. it's on the rtuck now. I'm happy!

[Grant]

I scored a 110k 89 2.5 and swapped that out. did now clutch kit and had the flywheel ground(flat) it works fine. Now I'm siffering from no power tot he fuel pump. I've even spliced in a ground just behind where the wires come down through the cab. all sealled and everything. The tail light ground is also all clean and sealed. I sprayed them with rubberized undecoating. I need the testing sequence for all the fuel pump wiring. any got it? I have no voltage at the pump with the key on. No voltage at the relay, the orange/black wire either. where do I go from there?

[maddzz1]

I would check the fusible links. I have read a few times where no power to the pump was a bad fusible link. Give then a good pull they should come apart if they are bad.

[Grant]

I undid, cleaned with my dremmel, and reconnected every ground. I tested both sides of the green and red fisable links with a multimeter. They all checked out ok.

I replaced the relay too. Still no fuel pump at ignition on. I ran the pump with a long feed from the battery. That proved that it is good and it's ground is good. I added one to the bottom of the cab just in front of the gas tank. I'm stumped.

might be the cps. I did replace it but this one doesnt seem to test out with an ohm meter now.

[Grant]

I tested all the fusible links, there are 5 of them by the battery. The alltested 12+v on either side of the link. I have no ballast resistor for the fuel pump. doesent look like there ever was one. no cut wires, no old mounting location on the drivers frnder or the firewall.

I tested the CPS with the ohm meter and it reads 22. I'm not sure if thats right ot not. they only info I could find was for a 3 wire 4.o cps. I only have 2 A & B. anybody know what the CPS is supose to ohm out to?

Never the less, I still don't have any fuel pump initialization. The coil and the control unit are both New. The omnes I waranteed out were only a few months old but I traded them in anyway to be absolutely sure.

Is there sonething with the actual ignition switch on the colum that I might be missing in my testing?