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Tips for removing a 4.0?


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With, or without the trans depends on preference.

 

It's simpler to leave the trans attached,

but it makes it more difficult to swing the whole thing in/out of the engine compartment.

 

Tutorial depends on what you are pulling it for,

if you are R&Ring it, take pictures, and label every wire/hose/cable for reinstallation.

 

Basically disconnect EVERYTHING (don't forget stuff you might not be able to see, like the CPS, and the trans vent line),

if it's 2wd, cap the end of the trans slip yoke,

if it's 4wd, pull the T-case off first.

 

Remove whatever looks to be in the way of pulling the engine (radiator for sure).

 

If you completely remove the trans crossmember, make sure you support the back of the trans somehow, till the crane is lifting it.

 

Then attach you chain (usually one end of the chain at the front of the head, and the other at the rear),

slowly raise the engine, pulling it forward slightly as you go,

raising as the bellhousing, and trans clears the firewall/trans tunnel.

 

At some point you may realize the hook should be slid forward, or back along the chain to better balance the load, and angle the engine.

Unless you have one of those fancy hand crank balance chain-things,

that means dropping the engine back onto the motor mounts, and repositioning the hook once the load is off it.

 

Definitely some trial and error,

but pulling an engine isn't hard.

 

Always know where everyone's hands are in relation to where the engine is moving

don't get under the load

always keep in mind where the load might go if the chain breaks (use chain rated for the load), or if one of the attaching bolts lets go.

 

Also, watch the back wheels of the hoist, if the engine is snagged, they could come right off the ground before you notice.

 

The whole thing had to be angled a lot just to clear the front bodywork when going out/in in my MJ.

 

I'll let the pics explain:

 

Out with the 200k renix + Peugeot

 

 

In with the 36k mile HO + NV3550:

 

 

tight squeeze:

 

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Get an engine leveler so you can balance it while it comes out. Napa, ORiely, Autozone should sell them maybe rent them too.

 

I pulled with the transmission and transfercase attached.

 

Pointers?

- make sure the tcase linkage is disconnected, completely

- pull radiator, header and hood

- unbolt the motor mount from the frame instead of from the motor. The mount will get in the way

- I chained it at the AC/alternator bracket up front then crossed the head to the back head stud and fastened the chain with grade 8 hardware. I removed the valve cover since there was slight pressure on it from the chain.

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I'm actually in the process of removing a 4.0L from an '88 Wagoneer right now. I prefer to remove the header panel and radiator to make life a hell of a lot easier, also prevents any damage to them. I'm choosing to leave the trans in for simplicity sake. If you choose to leave the trans in, the upper two bell housing bolts are inverted torx, be real careful with these. If you end up stripping them, you will either have to try to get something in there to cut the bolts off or you will have to remove the trans with the engine. One of the bolts got stripped on my buddies 2001 XJ when we were swapping engines and we got an air powered cut off tool in there to cut it off, ended up nicking a few of the bell housing ribs but nothing deep enough to really make any effect on integrity.

 

It's actually pretty easy of a job, just tedious and time consuming.

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I pulled a 4.0L, AW4, and 242 as one unit out of a '99XJ a couple months ago. I removed the header, radiator, and A/C condenser and it was still a pretty tight fit. The transfer case got hung up on everything as I yanked it out. I wish I would have pulled out the motor mount brackets on the frame since everything seem to get snagged on those. I also tried to pull it leaving the exhaust downpipe on, but eventually pulled that out for some more clearance. One of the bigger issues was that I was pulling everything out on gravel so the steel wheels on my hoist didn't exactly roll....at all. I basically just used it to lift the assembly and then rolled the XJ backwards.

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