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dana 60?


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hello guys, i reneclty got offered free for rear dana 60 to replace my rear 9" but dana 60 because my current rear 9" is all miss rear brake system so i can't off road without rear brake support and no parking brake either.

 

both r 4.10 gears and measured both which is about 68 to 70 inches wide.

 

most all i need to able swap is just get new spring preach brackets and wield it on dana 60 to fit my 6" lift comanche

 

anyway my point is that should i get dana 60 and swap my 9" rear?

 

edit: dana 60 was from old diesel truck that been left in barn for longtime.

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Two points:

 

First, a Dana 60 is a BIG and HEAVY axle. It's pretty much serious overkill for a Comanche. What size tires are you planning to run?

 

Second, there's a big difference (2 inches) between 68" and 70". Your post makes it sound like you regard that much difference as no big deal, but it could be a VERY big deal. With a standard (factory) MJ rear axle, the tires ride very close to the rear springs and the the frame and inner fender. Running 31.10.50s on factory rims, I came back from every off-road trip with new black rubber scuff marks on the insides of my rear fender liners. Awhile back, someone had a home-brewed spring pack undo itself (I don't recall if he omitted the spring clamps, or if they broke) and slashed the sidewall of a tire when one of the leaves turned just a little bit in the pack. You need to take some measurements, figure out what size tires and wheels you'll be running (including backspacing), and see if that monster will even fit under there. (Or, going the other way, how wide you'll need for flares if it's a lot wider than a stock axle.)

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Two points:

 

First, a Dana 60 is a BIG and HEAVY axle. It's pretty much serious overkill for a Comanche. What size tires are you planning to run?

 

Second, there's a big difference (2 inches) between 68" and 70". Your post makes it sound like you regard that much difference as no big deal, but it could be a VERY big deal. With a standard (factory) MJ rear axle, the tires ride very close to the rear springs and the the frame and inner fender. Running 31.10.50s on factory rims, I came back from every off-road trip with new black rubber scuff marks on the insides of my rear fender liners. Awhile back, someone had a home-brewed spring pack undo itself (I don't recall if he omitted the spring clamps, or if they broke) and slashed the sidewall of a tire when one of the leaves turned just a little bit in the pack. You need to take some measurements, figure out what size tires and wheels you'll be running (including backspacing), and see if that monster will even fit under there. (Or, going the other way, how wide you'll need for flares if it's a lot wider than a stock axle.)

 

true, thats what I'm been thinking and I'm running on 31 now but will plan to running on 35 or 36 on 5x5 15r/10.5

 

btw its in my garage (its my brother's which he gonna put it in his cj) but decide gonna give it to me

i can take pic of it if you want

 

my axles r already wide, its been swapped to dana 45 front and 9" rear with 6" lift without any backspacing. plus will planning to cut the fenders and add the aftermarket one but who knows

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The rear 60 you speak of is probably a complete waste.

 

Odds are this axle is a regular full float dana 60 which is a 30 spline axle. A dana 44 from a MJ is 30 spline as well. From a spline perspective they are identical. The difference is that the D60 is a full float which means the it can handle LOTS of weight because the weight of the vehicle is supported by spindles. The Dana 44 has the axle shafts supporting the weight of the vehicle. The Dana 44 isn't carrying mush in regards to weight since the MJ itself can't handle that much of a payload. I agree with Eagle it is too heavy and probably WAY too wide. That full float dana 60 axle should weigh about 400# and for reference the MJ Dana 44 should weight approx 220#.

 

I am a HUGE Dana 60 supporter when the axle is built a certain way. I have built a handful of Dana 60 axle that are semi float 35 spline axles at 61" width, disc brakes and when shaved have the same clearance as a Dana 44. A Dana 60 built this way can weigh about 310# and can survive sever abuse with no need to be concerned about shaft failure. I have an axle like this on my Buggy (on 42s) and my MJ on 37s.

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The rear 60 you speak of is probably a complete waste.

 

Odds are this axle is a regular full float dana 60 which is a 30 spline axle. A dana 44 from a MJ is 30 spline as well. From a spline perspective they are identical. The difference is that the D60 is a full float which means the it can handle LOTS of weight because the weight of the vehicle is supported by spindles. The Dana 44 has the axle shafts supporting the weight of the vehicle. The Dana 44 isn't carrying mush in regards to weight since the MJ itself can't handle that much of a payload. I agree with Eagle it is too heavy and probably WAY too wide. That full float dana 60 axle should weigh about 400# and for reference the MJ Dana 44 should weight approx 220#.

 

I am a HUGE Dana 60 supporter when the axle is built a certain way. I have built a handful of Dana 60 axle that are semi float 35 spline axles at 61" width, disc brakes and when shaved have the same clearance as a Dana 44. A Dana 60 built this way can weigh about 310# and can survive sever abuse with no need to be concerned about shaft failure. I have an axle like this on my Buggy (on 42s) and my MJ on 37s.

 

hmm yea full float but i think my dana 60 is a 30 too. i gotta count them again.

 

my rear 9" is 35 spline as i remember.

 

more info about dana 60 built? average total cost for build it? I'm in currently very serious budget (no job)

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hmm yea full float but i think my dana 60 is a 30 too. i gotta count them again.

 

my rear 9" is 35 spline as i remember.

 

more info about dana 60 built? average total cost for build it? I'm in currently very serious budget (no job)

 

 

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks.

 

I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price.

 

You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers

 

Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com

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hmm yea full float but i think my dana 60 is a 30 too. i gotta count them again.

 

my rear 9" is 35 spline as i remember.

 

more info about dana 60 built? average total cost for build it? I'm in currently very serious budget (no job)

 

 

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks.

 

I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price.

 

You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers

 

Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com

 

this website is great!

 

i agree with the pinions measure clearance to centerline but i remember there two different size of 9". which is size of bearing inside. I gotta get a axle removed and measure the bearing inside so i can know which get either pre-00' or mid 90' explorer brakes i can't remember what exact year of explorer but i will research more.

 

I'm totally agree with ur opinion about save the money u[p but the problem is that my 9" rear have NONE of brake parts. which i have to get wheel hub, caliper, pad, disc(rotor), brake line, proportionate (sp?), parking cable, etc. which is average totally 300ish dollars?

 

the dana 60 is just need spring preach, bracket for shock, new brake lines and seals which total less 100 dollars? i don't know man...

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hmm yea full float but i think my dana 60 is a 30 too. i gotta count them again.

 

my rear 9" is 35 spline as i remember.

 

more info about dana 60 built? average total cost for build it? I'm in currently very serious budget (no job)

 

 

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks.

 

I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price.

 

You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers

 

Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com

 

this website is great!

 

i agree with the pinions measure clearance to centerline but i remember there two different size of 9". which is size of bearing inside. I gotta get a axle removed and measure the bearing inside so i can know which get either pre-00' or mid 90' explorer brakes i can't remember what exact year of explorer but i will research more.

 

I'm totally agree with ur opinion about save the money u[p but the problem is that my 9" rear have NONE of brake parts. which i have to get wheel hub, caliper, pad, disc(rotor), brake line, proportionate (sp?), parking cable, etc. which is average totally 300ish dollars?

 

the dana 60 is just need spring preach, bracket for shock, new brake lines and seals which total less 100 dollars? i don't know man...

 

I don't know if it will work or what bolt pattern you need but you can get a complete Ford explorer axle from a 1996-2000 Ford explorer and take all the hardware off and apply it to the 9". These axles cost me $68 on half off day at the junk yard here in LA.

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I don't know if it will work or what bolt pattern you need but you can get a complete Ford explorer axle from a 1996-2000 Ford explorer and take all the hardware off and apply it to the 9". These axles cost me $68 on half off day at the junk yard here in LA.

 

so thats sound like ur recommend me to go to location junkyard to find oem parts from explorer? why didnt i think like that.. hmmm thank you, sir

 

Sean B.

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i say throw the 60 under it or give it to me lol

haha thats what I'm kept think and i can do those built method as Cracker did with his D60s.

 

i just took some pics of my D60, my brothers front D60 plus my rear 9"

mine- don't worry ill por15 it up and paint black with blue differential cover

 

my brother front axle

 

my rear 9"

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