SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 alright i finally got around to starting this thread. ill get to the pics first since thats what you want to see anyway :chillin:drivers sidepass sideposer shot. it had to be done. theres a lil more flex then that but hey whateverand here's one of my problems. it leaks but not bad surprisingly. how do i go about fixing it?its not bad shape theres a few bumps and bruises. it grinds when i turn too far to the left i think i read that it might be the universal joint? and as mentioned before theres a little play in the front driveshaft. it just wiggles a little bit. alright trying to type this is @#$%in annyoing the computer screen keeps jumping around when i try to type!!!!! @#$% it ill repost what else i have to say. comments welcome everybody! thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 okay much better now. also everytime i drive it after i shut it down theres a slight clicking (:dunno:) it does it for a few seconds then stops. no clue as to what it could be. ill take a vid of it later and post it up. after the deal was all said and done, I'm very happy with this thing. ive never owned a jeep before and man i have been missing out! so far its made short work of everything i have on my trail and then some. ive gotten hung on the bumper climbing a ditch and that didnt even stop it. it just took out a $#!&load of dirt haha before i lift it I'm going to replace all the seals and fluids. fix the exhaust leak and that tranny leak. POR-15 the floor and frame again. which where do i buy some localy or do i have to order some? the fender flares arent coming off willingly. so far ive tried to take off the front drivers and almost every bolt broke but two. and those two are the only thing holding it on lol. might as well break those off too i guess lol. the rear bumper and front are coming off today as well as the baby spare under the bed. I'm thinking i might go a spacer/shackle lift cause its cheap and easy. wheres a good place to buy? ive got the cash, just have to make a list and get going. stay tuned for more updates :wavey: :shake: oh yeah is there any forum brother near Memphis Tn? I'm not that mechanicly inclined but not a complete tard either. it would just be nice to have someone whos been there before you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 Sure its a tranny/rear main leak? These things have a habit of leaking at the back of the valve cover, and it runs down the back of the block. From underneath, it looks like a mess. But really, the gasket is under $40 for the valve cover, and super easy. Rob L. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 I'm sure it is the rear main. ive already looked into fixing it through here and found a step by step posting. what I'm saying is look at the metal at the front bottom of the tranny all bent up. I'm sure its not supposed to be like that and I'm thinking (not for sure) that the leak is coming from there. is it just a plate or part of the tranny/motor? idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 There is an inspection cover, that is made of sheet metal that just bolts on... But could you take some pics from different angles? Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 thats prolly what it is then. its sheet metal. if not its another thin metal then. ill take some pics in a second and post them. how hard is that to replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 looks like whomever hung the exhaust off of there in the last one. is it supposed to be like that cause I'm thinking not :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 fender flares are gone baby! along with some of that side trem. it wasnt completely gone over with the bedliner so mud and other $#!& was under them. kind of like the gold look haha while having the tires off i cleaned up some stuff and saw this on the drivers side. don't know if that crack is supposed to be there or not and is there supposed to be a seal or something on the pass side? cause theres not I'm uploading a video of that clicking noise after i shutdown the motor. itll soon be posted. and again any help, advice, whatever would be much apperciated :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 While we can help you a ton in your build, tech questions-like the questions about the noise, are best placed in the tech section. They will get a ton more attention, and advice. That said, the inspection plate looks ok, but I don't think there was ever supposed to be anything for the exhaust attached to the transmission like that. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 theres the clicking. ignore the exhaust leak lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 While we can help you a ton in your build, tech questions-like the questions about the noise, are best placed in the tech section. They will get a ton more attention, and advice. That said, the inspection plate looks ok, but I don't think there was ever supposed to be anything for the exhaust attached to the transmission like that. Rob L. :nuts: don't know why i didnt think of that lol thanks man yeah i figured the exhaust wasnt supposed to be like that. how are they supposed to be setup? wait another tech question lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 The tranny mount has a exhaust hanger built in. Its very common for the exhaust part of the tranny mount to sag... resulting in a annoying rattle. Many people have resorted to what yours has. I have one myself. It holds the exhaust up off the X member so there are no more rattles... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 I'm thinking my manche should love me after today :yes: wish me luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 I'm thinking my manche should love me after today :yes: wish me luck YIKES!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: We forgot to inform you that the FRAM filters are very bad for the 4.0L. They are a really poor design, and have caused many problems. And I hope the stop leak tranny fluid isn't going in the Comanche. As a rule, anything with stop leak might solve a minor problem short term, but cause a whole mess o' trouble long term. Sorry to burst you bubble. :oops: Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 hmm didnt know. there was a fram on there already so thats what i went with. what should i of gotten? and the stop leak is going in but not all of it. just a little to see if it holds a steady amount. some days its low and others its overfull. idk what the hell cause i can't find any leakage anywhere. I'm at a dead stop now after cleaning the valve cover because those two triangle things in there i took the off to clean them out and all the gaskets broke :wall:. its sure looking pretty now without all that gunk all over it. i just don't want to see what the oil pan looks like :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 Different levels? The trans should always be checked hot, and while the engine is running. You'll have to read the stick as to whether it has to be in Neutral or Park. I hope the stop leak isn't in yet. For the oil filter, Walmart carries the Mopar filters, so I just use one of those. Purolator, WIX, and Mobil 1. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 nah its not in. ill hold off on it. as for the filter i thought about WIX but just went with what was there already. ill get a new one thanks for all the info man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Auto is spot on, always check auto tranny levels with a fully warmed up vehicle, parked sitting level, idling. WIX is THE filter all others are measured by. Go with a WIX. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 alright ive got a new oil filter and gaskets i need to do the pan and rear main. i finished the VC and spark plugs a few days ago before the string of storms rolled in. maybe ill get out there and give it a go today since the rain is gone and the ground is somewhat dry. though i am nervous about the RMS, i think i can tackle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 I'm in a fight with the oil pan. thinking its a southern jeep so itll just fall right off.........not the case at all :fs1: i bought gasket remover and I'm about to give it a go in a minute again but maybe a smoke break to calm my nerves haha edit: that gasket $#!& burns like a mofo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 seriously i hate to post 80 million times a day but the no answers i get from you guys reading this really helps :fool: i did nothing to you people except buy a comanche and ask for help. anyway i got the pan off finally but didnt get the clearance i needed to get it out. took off the starter and jacked up the body so high the wheels came off the ground and still didnt have the room. if i could get off the god damned steering damper, it would slide out but that won't come off every way i tried and haynes doesnt say. i mean its two bolts! wtf!........ I'm to the point where id rather watch it f-ing burn then try to fix it. oh and thanks to those who did respond with positive or negitive comments Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 i wouldve posted something but all i wouldve been able to say is to keep goin at it. ive never had the oil pan off a jeep 4.0 before so i don't know what to do. now did you get the pan seperated from the block? also for the steering damper why don't you just disconnect the drag link so the damper falls dpwn to the axel trust me those things don't come off easily.... a cutting torch is usually requiered. at least where I'm from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 thanks man didnt even think about that :idea: yeah i got the pan seperated it took almost a whole can of gasket remover and a lot of pounding a scrapper along both sides up front. but once i did that for a few inches, it popped right off. i had to go buy serveral deep sockets though cause the bolts are not all the same size. ill try to get it all fixed up tomorrow. i just hope the RMS doesnt give me this much trouble but ive got a huge breaker bar lying in wait if it does :D also the rear of my valve cover WAS leaking. so thats prolly where the leak was coming from or at least some of it. i seriously suggest anybody with oil leak check that first but you will need a flex joint to get back in there good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 The rear main can go either way. For some its easy, for others its a royal pain. I would have a brass drift or punch at hand, and a mallot or deadblow... You're also going to need a torque wrench to put your main cap back on and torqued to spec. For getting the pan out, take loose the sway bar and the upper shock mounts, and that should net you the extra droop you need out of the axle to slide it out. Just be careful not to overextend the brake lines. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 ive got a punch and a mallet. i don't have a torque wrench though. couldnt i just tighten them till they are tight but not too tight? thats always worked for me before but i guess i shouldnt go this route with some internal like that :hmm: if i do need one, does autozone have a loaner i could borrow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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