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i reneclty try start to let it warm up and charging battery plus move to other park spot.

 

its started fine then after few mins, my shifting into reverse and let it idle and talk with my friend for little then sudden out of blue, the radio was blink and gear start grid bad, engine started spluttered. so i turned engine off then wait for min and starting again... its won't start and starter motor start make werid noise like tap tap tap very quick. sounds like battery didnt feed starter enough ammp but doubt cuz its don't make noise like click and headlight bright enough

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Tell me if I got this right:

 

You started your 87 MJ to charge the battery and move it to a different parking spot. You shifted into reverse, left it in gear at idle while you talked with a friend. After some amount of time, the radio blinked, you heard gear grinding noise and the engine started to splutter. You then turned the engine off and scratched your head for a few minutes trying to guess what just happened. When you try to start it now (as in every time after last turning it off) you hear very quick "tap,tap" noises but it doesn't sound like a "click". You know that you have some voltage from the battery because the headlights turn on.

 

If I got the interpretation correct, then yes, you definitely have a problem. Is this a manual or auto? Which engine? Were you sitting still when this all happened? What have you already checked?

 

Yes, I know. I have questions and no answers. I could only give a wild donkey guess without more information.

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If I got the interpretation correct, then yes, you definitely have a problem. Is this a manual or auto? Which engine? Were you sitting still when this all happened? What have you already checked?

 

Yes, I know. I have questions and no answers. I could only give a wild donkey guess without more information.

 

manual (5spd), 4.0l inline 6, and yes sitting still. i checked to see if there any low fluid level, changed oil, check most fuses as possible and added a bottle of sea foam into fuel tank.

 

 

let me explain it clear. sorry Ijust got headache for an while which not explain clear, so let me explain it clear. actually engine start spluttered before gear started grind and some unexplainable weird sounds since i'm myself a deaf with hearing aid :( . then I sudden put shift back to neutral while still depress the brake and clutch pedals. sudden out of blue while shifting reverse to neutral, i can feel shift stick was all grind bad and heard it very clear.

 

its feel like there would possible be slightly of clutch pedal's free play which not full disengage the clutch diagram off the clutch disc while full depress the clutch pedals to floor.

 

I'm keep think its free play or need SYE or possible worn out part(s) of transmission system, adjust the distributor by using the ignition timing light, check fuel pressure, sparkplugs condition and brand, etc.

 

edit: I'm starting think about to remove whole dashboard and check all wires to make sure its not shorted, taped, solder proper, connectors condition, crossing, mess up, reseal, heat-shrink tubing in proper way, etc. Because i noticed the interior was mostly used from homedepot screws and used electric tapes to seal, cover with some of muds, aftermarket radio, cutted cluster gauge consle cover trim(not sure what its called), missing some switches, miss interior dome lamps :(, etc.

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I'm gonna say that your alt is shot and you have been running on the battery which finally wend dead or lo enough not to start engine. The starter draws much more "juice" than the lights... Charge up the battery, the engine should start. remove the positive battery cable. I'm gonna bet that the motor stalls... bad alternator.

 

Eagle is also on to something, check the cables first. It could be this and at the very least if they are original need changing...

 

CW

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I'm gonna say that your alt is shot and you have been running on the battery which finally wend dead or lo enough not to start engine. The starter draws much more "juice" than the lights... Charge up the battery, the engine should start. remove the positive battery cable. I'm gonna bet that the motor stalls... bad alternator.

 

Eagle is also on to something, check the cables first. It could be this and at the very least if they are original need changing...

 

CW

 

 

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor)

 

edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle?

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I'm gonna say that your alt is shot and you have been running on the battery which finally wend dead or lo enough not to start engine. The starter draws much more "juice" than the lights... Charge up the battery, the engine should start. remove the positive battery cable. I'm gonna bet that the motor stalls... bad alternator.

 

Eagle is also on to something, check the cables first. It could be this and at the very least if they are original need changing...

 

CW

 

 

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor)

 

edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle?

 

no bigger injectors would just hurt fuel mileage and damage the catalytic converter.

you can use a mustang 19Lb/hr injector for a little more efficient spray pattern (4 holes rather than 1) and it won't affect performance.

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I'm gonna say that your alt is shot and you have been running on the battery which finally wend dead or lo enough not to start engine. The starter draws much more "juice" than the lights... Charge up the battery, the engine should start. remove the positive battery cable. I'm gonna bet that the motor stalls... bad alternator.

 

Eagle is also on to something, check the cables first. It could be this and at the very least if they are original need changing...

 

CW

 

 

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor)

 

edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle?

 

 

 

 

 

 

no bigger injectors would just hurt fuel mileage and damage the catalytic converter.

you can use a mustang 19Lb/hr injector for a little more efficient spray pattern (4 holes rather than 1) and it won't affect performance.

 

 

thats what i tot by running it rich fuel and i don't even have any catalytic convertor on my jeep ;) just a muffler

 

what about the precision auto injector?

 

http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... tegoryId=3

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thats a pretty good price, i got a set of ford 5.0L injectors (correct flow lb/hr) from five-o motorsports for somewhere in the 200$ range a few years ago so 105$ is a good price for a set of 6

 

and you're welcome to run it rich if you want to but there's probably another problem you could chase down and get it hammered out straight

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What year mustang will work and what engine

fuel injected 5.0Ls you're looking for a yellow 19lb/hr injector

 

 

Sweet Thank you.

i added a link to the site i bought them, the mustang style are a little better flowing than the cheaper ones are

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thanks for :hijack:

 

haha just kidding at least thankks for info. i wish my mj is already fixed. I'm tired of let its sit on park lot for about two mouths since after bought it. guess its what i got desvered for bought it cheap with lifted and two nice strong axles :)

 

edit: i was thinking about get engine swap to diesel or get skyline gtr inline 6 ;) just kidding. i will rather diesel over skyline gtr r34 inline 6

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Do you have a battery charger?

You don't need a meter at all. Just do like I suggested. If it does what I said, the alt is shot. But check the cables first.

That doesn't mean open the hood and take a gander... Take them off, clean the connections inspect the cables insulation reinstall with dielectric grease. Its copper wire, if its black its going bad. I have said it many times, copper wire is like a water pipe. The bigger the better flow anything tarnishing the copper is a restriction, get enough restrictions you have power problems. If yours is a renix it can cause many problems.

 

CW

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...........

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor)

 

edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle?

 

You don't have to have the fancy add-ons to do some serious testing.

 

Key off, lights off, doors closed, hood lamp unplugged (if it works at all) ---- Measure battery voltage

 

This will tell you first if your even close to having enough to turn on the electrics and spin the motor.

 

If it was to start, you do the same measurement. At idle, the battery voltage should be higher (than the off condition) if the alternator is working.

 

You have indicated at least two different problems (maybe more). I would get the truck running first, then wonder about all the add-ons that will drain your wallet.

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...........

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor)

 

edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle?

 

You don't have to have the fancy add-ons to do some serious testing.

 

Key off, lights off, doors closed, hood lamp unplugged (if it works at all) ---- Measure battery voltage

 

This will tell you first if your even close to having enough to turn on the electrics and spin the motor.

 

If it was to start, you do the same measurement. At idle, the battery voltage should be higher (than the off condition) if the alternator is working.

 

You have indicated at least two different problems (maybe more). I would get the truck running first, then wonder about all the add-ons that will drain your wallet.

 

thanks to let me know but i will still gonna need it for my job someday (toyota technician)

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found a issue is a dead alternator. sorry i admin that i didnt follow ur advice but hey i didnt use anything fancy tools, just a jumper cable haha

 

since i found it out because when i jumped it with my subaru and its started no problem then wait for like 10 mins.

removed the jumper cable and my engine still running so i pulled it out of parklot and plan to drive to my home then sudden its start strave of battery. sudden died. so i jumped it again. doubt it cuz of gas. its have plenty of gas so its started then died after remove the jumper cable, so its obv that alternator didnt charge the battery. so the result my friend volunteer to tow it back to my home with his nice flatblack 1987 bronco II v6. made it in 10 mins so tomorrow i will remove the altenator and send it to autozone for test

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