MCF90 Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Just curious, the pin that I found over the nut on the chassis bracket looks almost like a safety pin. Is this what Jeep used from the factory? Just curious as I've never encountered this type of pin before. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Should be a standard cotter pin. Stick it through the hole and bend both legs so it can't fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 And speaking of width, has anyone tried some spacers on the rear of their lifted Comanche with stock rims? I want to keep my turbines, but with 31's and 32's, they are well inboard and rub the frame. I can see 1/4" working, but I need closer to 1/2". I'd hate to sheer the lugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I uses 1.5" spacers to get the rear to look the same as the front, because the body is wider at the rear. Worked well with my stock 10 spokes running P235/75R15, and also with my 15x8 soft 8s running both 33x12.50 and 35.12.50. These are running outside the wheel well, but it keeps them off the frame and inside of wheel well under flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Should be a standard cotter pin. Stick it through the hole and bend both legs so it can't fall out. I was expecting to find a standard cotter pin, but instead I found what looked to be a safety pin looking pin. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I uses 1.5" spacers to get the rear to look the same as the front, because the body is wider at the rear. Worked well with my stock 10 spokes running P235/75R15, and also with my 15x8 soft 8s running both 33x12.50 and 35.12.50. These are running outside the wheel well, but it keeps them off the frame and inside of wheel well under flex. Wow, how much lug is left to bolt the wheels onto at that point? Or are you using a spacer that comes with lugs? Anyone know a good place to get one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The spacers bolts to the studs on the axle, then the wheel bolts to the studs in the spacer. We're talking trucks here, not honda civics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The spacers bolts to the studs on the axle, then the wheel bolts to the studs in the spacer. We're talking trucks here, not honda civics. I don't need that much space yet. I am thinking just a 1/2" spacer for now since the minimum to clear the lugs without cutting them looks to be 1.5" for the ones yer talking about - far more space than i need or want. This is a DD, hunting vehicle - not a wheeler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I ran them when my truck was still stock. Puts the rear wheels as close to the outside of the flares as the front wheels. Makes it look even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I ran them when my truck was still stock. Puts the rear wheels as close to the outside of the flares as the front wheels. Makes it look even. The 1.5" spacers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13578&hilit=hubcentric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13578&hilit=hubcentric Ugh, those are definitely too wide. Hrm... I need half that space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Ugh, those are definitely too wide. Hrm... I need half that space. Ugh, then you better invest in some longer wheel studs sport............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Ugh, those are definitely too wide. Hrm... I need half that space. Ugh, then you better invest in some longer wheel studs sport............ I was thinking a 3/8" hub-centric spacer, and replace the bearings since they prolly are stock, anyways. I don't go wheelin. I just need to keep the wheels off the frame in moderate trail conditions. They just barely rub right now. As it sits, the looks really do not bother me much. I'm more worried about functionality. If I find I go wheelin more, then those spacers yer using may come in handy. Preeshiatcha, mang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Wasn't for looks only. The extended rear track helped me out a lot w. body roll hauling the camper around. Even w. a 3/8" hubcentric spacer I'd still install longer studs. When I put in my rear disk brakes, the Ford Explorer backing plate added an extra 1/4", so I got some 3/8" longer studs to compensate. Six full lugnut turns is the minimum, and I couldn't get that w. just the extra 1/4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Wasn't for looks only. The extended rear track helped me out a lot w. body roll hauling the camper around. Even w. a 3/8" hubcentric spacer I'd still install longer studs. When I put in my rear disk brakes, the Ford Explorer backing plate added an extra 1/4", so I got some 3/8" longer studs to compensate. Six full lugnut turns is the minimum, and I couldn't get that w. just the extra 1/4". Ugh(again). Hrm. I knew it wouldn't be an easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I ran them when my truck was still stock. Puts the rear wheels as close to the outside of the flares as the front wheels. Makes it look even. The 1.5" spacers? Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovrszd Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If I were adjusting the track bar I would take the axle end loose. That's where the adjuster is and then all you have to twist is the threaded end. As mentioned you would appreciate a second person when trying to put it back together. If you are determined to take the frame end loose you don't need a pickle fork. Remove the cotter pin. Loosen the nut until there's only a couple turns of threads holding it on. Then smack the cast bracket that the bar tapered bolt goes thru REAL HARD with a BFH. It'll drop loose and be caught by the nut you left on it. Never hit the nut or the bar. Then loosen the lock nut down at the axle end and turn the entire bar to adjust. I can't remember the last time I used a pickle fork. And I'm sure whenever that was, it was for something other than it's intended purpose. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If I were adjusting the track bar I would take the axle end loose. That's where the adjuster is and then all you have to twist is the threaded end. As mentioned you would appreciate a second person when trying to put it back together. Your trackbar must be different than most. Every adjustable trackbar I've seen had a threaded end on the frame side, with a regular TRE in it for the adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovrszd Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If I were adjusting the track bar I would take the axle end loose. That's where the adjuster is and then all you have to twist is the threaded end. As mentioned you would appreciate a second person when trying to put it back together. Your trackbar must be different than most. Every adjustable trackbar I've seen had a threaded end on the frame side, with a regular TRE in it for the adjustments. Hmmmm... I guess he didn't clarify. I assumed he had the TRE at the cast frame bracket and the adjuster down on the axle. I've never saw one with the adjuster at the TRE. But I'm new to the MJ world, maybe that's how they are built??? Sorry if I misled him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If I were adjusting the track bar I would take the axle end loose. That's where the adjuster is and then all you have to twist is the threaded end. As mentioned you would appreciate a second person when trying to put it back together. Your trackbar must be different than most. Every adjustable trackbar I've seen had a threaded end on the frame side, with a regular TRE in it for the adjustments. Hmmmm... I guess he didn't clarify. I assumed he had the TRE at the cast frame bracket and the adjuster down on the axle. I've never saw one with the adjuster at the TRE. But I'm new to the MJ world, maybe that's how they are built??? Sorry if I misled him. What cast frame bracket? I've never seen a cast frame bracket on an MJ or XJ. AFAIK they are forged. And I, too, have never seen an adjustable track bar with the adjustment at the axle end. They all have a fixed end at the axle and a standard TRE threaded into the upper (frame) end. The TRE IS[/b] the adjuster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 That's why I like the Teraflex - no pulling off one end to adjust. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Yes... that is nice. But what's nice about the other adjustables, is you can replace the TRE without needing to buy a new bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Teraflex sells any part of the bar w/o buying the whole thing, including bushings. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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