MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Hey all, I was taking the interior out of my MJ to examine the extent of the rust in the floor panels and discovered I've got a leaky clutch master cylinder :mad: . My question is, is this a part that I could get at any auto parts store or would I have to order it online? Also, how much should I expect to spend on it? Thanks for looking, Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 On a positive note, the passenger side floorboard was clean, lol. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 You should expect to spend 45-70$ on a bendix one from any local parts chain. Not hard to find and easy to install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Ok, cool. I'll probably run to the local Napa tomorrow and pick one up. Also, I imagine that I need to bleed the system once the new one is installed? What is the correct method of bleeding the system? Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 The last thing I would be worried about right now is replacing it. Get it out NOW! That brake fluid leaking on top of the fuse box will eat away and make your fuse box very brittle. To the point where the truck develops gremlins that can only be fixed with a new fuse box... (Entire Wiring harness!) Hopefully you have just caught it. If not, it might be too late... Get in there, disco the battery, and start cleaning your fuse box off with some electrical cleaner to stop any continuing damage. Rob L. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 I've got a rag between the cylinder and the fuse panel to catch any drips. Its not a bad leak, just a drip or two when the clutch is depressed. The fuse panel appears to be in good shape, do distortion or anything, so hopefully I caught the leak early. All of the electronic gizmos seem to be working (except the clock). Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 The clutch master cylinder is one of those parts you REALLY REALLY need to buy from a dealer, regardless of the price. Aftermarket clutch hydraulic components seem to have a life expentancy of about 6 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 bleeding procedure on the clutch is just like a brake job, you want to try to get the master itself bled a little before you install it, but then crawl under the truck and crack the bleeder while someone is depressing the pedal. then close the bleeder and release pedal. repeat as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Pardon my ignorance, but where exactly is the bleeder for the clutch master cylinder? I've got a service manual, but there aren't any pictures that show where its at on the truck. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Pardon my ignorance, but where exactly is the bleeder for the clutch master cylinder? I've got a service manual, but there aren't any pictures that show where its at on the truck. Matt under the truck there will be a metal line going into the transmission bellhousing on the drivers side little more than halfway up. the other line that comes back out will have a bleeder screw on the end of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Thanks! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Just curious if anyone has attempted to get their clutch master cylinder out by themselves. I've tried and can't seem to get it. I'm having problems with the top bolt that holds the master cylinder onto the firewall. Any one have any tips? :dunno: Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Just curious if anyone has attempted to get their clutch master cylinder out by themselves. I've tried and can't seem to get it. I'm having problems with the top bolt that holds the master cylinder onto the firewall. Any one have any tips? :dunno: Matt PM me your addy if you want a hand one day shoring the MJ up. I am in your area... Usually have free time. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 I'm waiting for my POR to get here. I think I'll put some POR around where the master cylinder meets the firewall on both sides just in case it leaks agian down the road. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Well, I got the resivoir removed, the line removed, got the top bolt out, got the bottom nut off and it won't budge! Everything is disconnected, not sure what the hang up is. Anyone?? :dunno: Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 It's probably just frozen to the firewall from rust and crud buildup. Spay with pb-blaster or similar, let soak. If it were me, I'd give it some sharp whacks with a hammer to break it free. Have you gotten a replacement yet? I ordered the Rhinopac M0112 and it's a nice piece, sturdy construction and made of metal. Far superior to the plastic piece of crap I pulled out. I ended up paying $30 shipped. I've got a discount code if you're interested, not sure what the current prices are though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 I hit it with some PB Blaster. Guess we'll try it again tomorrow. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 I just looked at it again and I can't tell where its getting hung up at. I sprayed it all again with some PB Blaster. Hopefully I can get it knocked loose. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 It sounds like you got everything, there's not much to it. The top nut is fastened in the engine bay along with the hydraulic line, the bottom nut is fastened in the cabin along with the linkage to the pedal, and that should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Yup, I'm positive that I got everything, just not sure why its stuck onto the firewall. Must just be corrosion. Hopefully the PB Blaster will knock it loose. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Well, I sprayed the heck out of it with PB Blaster last night and just tried again to remove the clutch master cylinder. Still no luck. Is the bottom stud welded to the firewall or is it just another bolt like the top? Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 The bottom stud is welded to the fire wall. The problem your having is dissimilar metals, Steel firewall & bolts, and cast alum master cylinder. As suggested above, you need to take a BFH to the old MC and knock it off, that will be the only way to brake the bond of the galvanic reaction. PB Blaster, although a good product, will not cut it here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Dang, I was afraid of that. The only way I can really hit the master cylinder is down as there isn't alot of room around it. I don't want to bend the snot out of the lower stud. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCF90 Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 I STILL can't get the clutch master cylider off of the firewall! I just can't get it to break free. I'm afraid that if I keep trying, I'll end up pulling the stud through the firewall. I really need some help here guys, I"m out of ideas. :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 OK.......I assume you removed the rod off the clutch pedal??? If you can't swing a hammer in the compartment, you could always use a 2x4 to reach it, and then hit the 2x4 with the BFH :D If by chance, and I doubt it, you do break the stud off the firewall, you can always drill it out and replace it with a nut and bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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