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i have dis assembled rear stock flares that go on my 92

i have all the pieces

just no idea how to put it together

since all the "bolts" are rusted in half, and over the flares is all new sheet metal, i have to use self tappers


how do they go on?

theres the flares, rubber plastic pieces, ant 6 metal clips

look at my 92 pic underneath this post...see....no flares!

i painted it yesterday...temp....and want to put the flares on :thumbsup:

thanks again in advance! jamminz.gif

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It is kind of a b-tch to get them back on but when you took them off there were, I assume, the little nut clips (little round push on holders). They help alot when holding in the bolts. If the "bolts" aren't usable and they're welded onto the sheet metal parts you can drill them out and JB weld some new (yes, stainless is good) to the sheet metal so's you can line it all up and THEN work the flares around the rubber underliner, get the bolts in the holes, push the inner liner over the bolts and slide the clips on there. That should hold them in place so you can get the nuts on. BONUS: The clips act like fender washers too.


http://www.universalwireforms.com/image ... ocknut.gif

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when i bought the truck it had fabricated bent steel tack welded above the rear tires...rusted out

and the flares were in the bed

i looked underneath to try n figure it out, but there is nothing there, its all replaced with new steel

no i only have the 2 trucks

here's what the quarters look like

well looked like until i painted them

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If it was me I would ditch all that stuff except the flares.


The the plastic pieces you are referring to mount inside the fender and overlap with the fender flare. It has been my experience that all this arrangement does is collect snow, slush, mud, etc. and helps rust out the rear fender.


I snapped all the studs off the metal brackets on mine when I took the flares off the first time. Mine were all rusted out so I pitched them too.


I reattached the flares using some washers and nylon hardware so I would not have to fight rusted hardware the next time the flares needed to come off. The nylon hardware is a bit more expensive, but should save me some work in the future.


The flares fit nice and snug without the metal pieces and the flares don't collect all the previously mentioned crud anymore. Now they are open and easy to rinse out.

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Ditto on the last two posts (above yours).



I used 1/4-20 hardware, through the stock flare holes, and tossed out everything else.


Stainless 1/4-20 hardware is pretty cheap, but I still used plain old zinc plated stuff.


The beauty of the plain jane 1/4-20 hardware is that it's dirt cheap, and when it's time to remove (assuming it's mounted out in the elements like this), put a wrench on it, and SNAP!, they break with a 1/2 turn of the wrench. :yes:


Grab a handful of new hardware for next to nothing, and put the flares back on.



It may sound counter productive & :nuts: but it worked for me when I was moving the flares around alot on the old trail Jeep. :D



If you're only planning to do it once, go stainless, or try the nylons like Carl posted. (I've only used nylon nuts & bolts for motorcycle applications, but they worked well in that application).


Also, I'd get hex head 1/4-20's.

They come in phillips head, flat head (screwdriver), or combo (both), but even in stainless, the screwdriver style are tough to get apart later.

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Also, I'd get hex head 1/4-20's.

They come in phillips head, flat head (screwdriver), or combo (both), but even in stainless, the screwdriver style are tough to get apart later.


:agree: x 1000... Learned this the hard way before I got smart and did it the way I previously mentioned. I ended up having to cut most of them off with the angle grinder and a cutting wheel... not fun.

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