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truck suddenly won't start


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I personaly would put a feul pressure gauge on it and see what you are getting . you could be getting some feul but not enough pressure to run it . I had this problem just the other day when trying to get my truck running after sitting for a while .

 

try this. rotate the key to the start possition severl times with out trying to start . after doing this say 5-10 times then try to start it . if it starts it will be a feul pressure problem . it should start and run for a little while then die once you try to give it a lilttle gas . or just die out once it uses up the feul pressure .

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I personaly would put a feul pressure gauge on it and see what you are getting . you could be getting some feul but not enough pressure to run it . I had this problem just the other day when trying to get my truck running after sitting for a while .

 

try this. rotate the key to the start possition severl times with out trying to start . after doing this say 5-10 times then try to start it . if it starts it will be a feul pressure problem . it should start and run for a little while then die once you try to give it a lilttle gas . or just die out once it uses up the feul pressure .

 

 

Tried that and that is exactly what is happening ...

Now I need to get the gas out of the tank so I can replace both pump & tank.

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Before you drain the tank and lower the tank i would go to Auto Zone and get a pressure gauge. I made this same mistake, i drained my tank and changed my pump and still had the same problem.

 

If I had low pressure to the rail wouldn't I still need to replace the pump?

I've already replaced the filter and the old one had a bunch of junk in it, so replacing the tank would still be a good thing.

I am performing a resto on the vehicle and since replace just about everything electronic under the hood.

 

She was running GREAT! before this happened.

 

Maybe the one of the rubber tubes in the tank is the issue and I am sucking a little air.

Truck has 60k and sat for about 3 year prior to me starting to dress her up again.

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If you have low pressure at the rail then yes you would still have to change the pump.

If your restoring it and want everything to be perfect then i guess i would replace all the stuff too. I thought you were just trying to get it running again, i didn't realize you were restoring it.

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UPDATE:

 

Disconnected the fuel line and connected a 6ft line to it. Manually fired up the fuel pump and let it pump out 3 Gals of gas.

Gas stream looked like a real nice flow. Hooked the gas line backup on the jeep and manually over road the fuel pump again while trying to start. Same results again.

 

Note: Seems harder to start as it warms up.

 

Replaced CPS the other day with a known working one.

Spark on all cylinders.

All injectors are new refurbs. Doesn't seem like all 6 would be bad/plugged at the same time. Plus when I do get it to run for 20-30secs, she runs good, then died.

 

Priming the fuel pump as noted in a past post, yields the same results.

 

Any special grounds, connectors I may need to be looking at? Do you think it might be the ECM?

 

Anthony

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its not grounds or connectors or you wouldnt start at all.

 

i know it pumped fine and all but have you checked the pressure?

 

have you run injector cleaner through it? i know it won't run for long but keep doing it consider it a test of your battery,starter ,and patience.

:thumbsup: good luck

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I know i asked once but have you messed with ignition switch yet? I went thru all this same stuff and found out the ignition switch shuts the injectors off or something. Cause mine would run all day long on starting fluid, had good fuel pressure, and great spark.

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I know i asked once but have you messed with ignition switch yet? I went thru all this same stuff and found out the ignition switch shuts the injectors off or something. Cause mine would run all day long on starting fluid, had good fuel pressure, and great spark.

 

Physical switch on column or the ignition module?

 

Anthony

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I'm re-reading your updates here.........and thinking.........EGR valve :hmm:

 

Find the vacuum line to the EGR valve, and pull it off, and plug the line with a screw, then try to start it and see what happens.

 

A plugged / faulty valve will let the engine fire, and then choke it right out. Short easy test to do.

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Ok I have reread this post and I see NOTHING about what kind of feul pressure you are getting . you need to do what every one has said and get a gauge on it . that is the only way to tell . you culd have a pin hole in the short feul line in the tank . This was my problem when I bought non running one. they did titen the clamp and it has the same problem as you are having now .

again you MUST check it with a gauge .

Please post you readings. :smart:

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Ok I have reread this post and I see NOTHING about what kind of feul pressure you are getting . you need to do what every one has said and get a gauge on it . that is the only way to tell . you culd have a pin hole in the short feul line in the tank . This was my problem when I bought non running one. they did titen the clamp and it has the same problem as you are having now .

again you MUST check it with a gauge .

Please post you readings. :smart:

 

I did not check the fuel pressure yet. I've decided to replace the tank and pump and just got them in today.

Since I am restoring it and seen the amount on crap on the inside of the filter, it really needed to be done anyway.

Once the new tank/pump is in, I will test fuel pressure, which should be perfect unless something on the rail is messed up.

 

Volume on the pump doesn't look very good. Gas only streams out about 1 1/2 inch before dropping off. I am using the pump to pump the tank dry so I can replace it.

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Ok, Quick update.

 

Dropped tank. (remember to drop drive shaft, would have saved a lot of time)

Put tank on work bench.

Loosen and remove retainer ring.

Wiggle out pump/sending unit.

 

Cool! There's the problem ... All the rubber to shot!

 

Disassemble the unit and remove pump from housing.

 

Open box with new fuel pump .. wait mine done look like this :fs1:

 

Take pictures and write down numbers .. Call Rockauto ... What! The pump I am describing is for a 2.5l '89 pioneer :wall:

 

Carter # P74032

 

But I have a 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0l. WTF!

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WOOT you found the problem !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sucks they gave you the wrong part. but still now you have it close to being back on the road ! GRATZ!!

 

Actually, right part was shipped.

 

I have a cross bread Comanche where Jeep decided they had a couple of the old hangers around.

I had to order the "corrected" fuel pump which is used in the Pioneer 2.5l trucks. "Carter P74032".

 

Even though it is not RockAuto's fault, they are paying shipping back to them. :banana: Cool!

 

I am also returning the gas tank. My tank has a little grommet inside that helps hold the pump assembly, the new tank doesn't. My tank is in really good shape inside, so I lucked out.

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So........If I'm reading that right........Rockauto sent the wrong tank and wrong pump???

 

But, you found the problem to be the rubber hose from the pump to the sending unit outlet, correct???

 

Solution would be to replace the rubber line, and send everything back, and walk a way with an easy fix (and cheap too) :brows:

 

While you have the tank out.........A good cleaning with a wire wheel and a couple of coats of THIS sure would not hurt ;)

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So........If I'm reading that right........Rockauto sent the wrong tank and wrong pump???

 

But, you found the problem to be the rubber hose from the pump to the sending unit outlet, correct???

 

Solution would be to replace the rubber line, and send everything back, and walk a way with an easy fix (and cheap too) :brows:

 

While you have the tank out.........A good cleaning with a wire wheel and a couple of coats of THIS sure would not hurt ;)

 

No RockAuto did NOT send or list the incorrect part.

 

Jeep must have had a few extra parts from a 2.5l Comanche lying around they needed to get rid of.

I got those parts. I've seen this a lot on FORDS.

 

While have have the tank out, I am replacing the pump now. I am not going to "fix" and reassemble just to possibly do it again. Not to stay the new pump might not fail in the future either.

 

A

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let us know when it starts.

 

I went through ALL of this crap plus more to try and get my jeep started... took a wire wheel to the battery terminals and posts, fired right up, cursed the heavens HARD that day.

 

 

jamminz.gif She's Alive! jamminz.gif

 

Now another problem. With all this fuel pressure, the feed to the rail is leaking, but that's GOOD!

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Ok, Was getting ready to drop the beast off at the body shop and ...

 

A week prior, filled the tank up with the good stuff.

 

Started the truck up in the garage, started very quick.

Backed her out into the driveway. Let her idle and warm up for 5 mins.

Turn her off for and got side tracked for 1/2 hour. It was time to go, fired her backup again.

 

Backed up out of the driveway, put her in drive and proceeded down the road.

Got 100ft, stalled. Won't start. Push truck back to front of house.

 

Sprayed some gum-out down the throttle body, fires right up, then dies.

 

I figured no fuel, brought new fuel filter, installed, same response.

 

When you attempt to start, it sort feels like she will start but never fully starts.

Sometime she will run for 10-15secs.

 

Disconnected fuel line from filter, and looks like fuel pump is working.

 

Any idea's - This sucks!

 

Anthony

 

 

----

 

Wrapping it all up.

 

Truck just suddenly stopped working. It would feel like it wanted to start (run with the starter) and sometimes would for 15/30secs. All electronics good/replaced. New fuel injectors, throttle body cleaned and new gaskets. All new vacuum lines. The truck was running perfect!

 

--

Had full tank of gas (18gals)

Drained tank using the fuel pump (since it was working). Took 3hrs to move 16gals ( must have burnt 2gals ). About 1/2 gal remains in the tank.

Pulled battery ( please do this )

Disconnected and dropped drive shaft. ( You don;t need to remove / just slide it a side opposite the gas tank)

Disconnect 3 wire fuel/gauge harness at connector.

Disconnect lower fuel/return line from tank ( might be fuel left in line )

Disconnect upper fuel/feed line from tank. ( main fuel line, may have fuel in it )

Disconnect the inlets on driver side. (two main inlet and vent)

Jack driver side up with floor jack, Don't need to get too high, just enough to get the tank out.

Back off the strap nuts starting with one closes to cab. ( do the tough one first )

As the tank drops, disconnect the vents line on top of the tank ( I just cut them close to the fitting )

 

With tank out and on work bench, kick back and enjoy a smoke ( :no: NO! Kidding )

 

Using a piece of copper pipe and a hammer, spin off retaining ring holding hanger/pump inside tank.

Slowly pull and twist the unit thru the hole.

 

Look, ah all the rubber is busted up. Melted like it was in a fire.

Yes it is OK to be shocked when you realize those are bare wires in your gas tank. And yes the unit looks like a bomb!

 

Disconnect and replace pump unit. Make sure it is identical to the one you are replacing. My 89 Eliminator 4.0l used the 2.5l fuel tank and pump unit. This is not an uncommon practice of part swapping at the factory.

 

Install new pump, make sure + and - wires are on correctly or you will be doing this all over again.

Put assembly back into tank replacing the seal.

Tap retainer ring back on using the copper pipe and hammer. (Don't need sparks)

 

Reinstall tank back into truck.

Vent garage from fumes and keep garage open!

 

Install battery.

 

Fill with some gas - close eyes - hold breath - turn key.

 

4-3-2-1, Ignition!

 

Now you can enjoy a smoke and/or a beer.

 

Anthony

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