HELP! Front Brake HARD LINE LENGTH and FITTINGS Q's

[comanche09]

Hi All,

 

Just wrapping up my D30 axle swap and get to the brake lines.... Stripped the nut on the drivers side where the hard line meets the soft. :wall: :mad: They are rust welded together. Vice grips slip. The passenger side nut looks in the same condition.

 

I've decided to replace the hard lines in front all the way to the proportioning block. I've never double flared a brake line and don't want to go there at the moment.

 

Question 1- Anyone know if the nuts are the same in the proportioning block as at the hose (3/8 x 3/16)? They look the same. If so...

 

Question 2- What lengths do I need to pick up? The drivers side looks about 16", but there is not much room by the prop block to coil any extra... The passenger side goes along the firewall and looks pretty long.

 

Please help, getting ready to go to the part store... Thanks!

[Akula69]

In most cases the parts store is going to sell you a pre-cut length of straight brake line that is already flared and has the wrong size nuts on it :roll: Your main concern is the OD of the line

 

You can borrow a double flaring tool kit from some stores, some you'll need to rent it. Cut the existing flares off and use you old flare nuts from the vehicle. If (as you have indicated) the old flare nuts are unusable I have found that Auto Zone does carry the right sizes (just not on the pre-flared lines). You will need to bring one of the destroyed ones so they can give you the right size thread and ID.

[Pete M]

double flaring can be, well, a challenge. A quality flaring kit goes a loooong way to making them come out right, and the Autozone near me had some really cheap kits. It took some effort, but I was able to re-tube the entire 90 with it. The 88 I did back in the day and used the pre-fabbed lines. As long as you get the proper fittings, or can get adapters, it's pretty straight forward. Always get more length than you think you need, and always buy more lines than you need. You can always take them back.

[Eagle]

Another factor is that, if I understood the question correctly, these are the front hard lines. Those have to punch through the inner fender walls. The hole is just large enough for the tubing, it isn't large enough to pass an end fitting through. To each his own, but I would rather keep the small hole and make a flare myself rather than butcher the sheet metal so I could get a pre-fitted end through the fender.

[Pete M]

Good point. My 88 is not routed in the stock fashion so I didn't realize that.

[Akula69]

Uh..I forgot to add that these little pipe bending springs make life a heck of a lot easier as well:

 

http://www.generaltools.com/Products/6-Steel-Spring-Tubing-Benders-(14---58)__S106.aspx

 

And as Pete said, take your time on the double flares, but don't get frustrated as you will get them right with a good flare tool. You might wanna practice a bit on old tubing first to get the hang of it.

[comanche09]

Hey all thanks for the replies and the great info! I wanted to avoid flaring if at all possible.

 

FWIW, on my '88 the only odd fittings in the proportioning valve are the two inputs from the master cylinder.

 

The front and rear lines going out of the block have 3/8" fittings at the block and at the calipers/wheel cylinders. So I was able to pick up the pre-flared 3/16" lines with 3/8" fittings. I used a 60" section for the pass side and a 20" for the drivers side. The 20" was too long so I put a loop in it, definately could get away with a 12".

 

There were grommets in the inner fender and once removed the hole was around 3/4" in diameter, plenty enough to get the fitting through.

 

It ain't too pretty but it works. :thumbsup: Hope this helps someone :cheers: