mfpdm Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 So on the way to the scrapman today, my left front caliper locked up and nearly caught on fire.(smoking pretty bad) I limped it home and pretty much, the brake pads I put on about a month ago are gone and the rotor is toast. So question here is, what are the normal causes of the caliper failing? Is it just the unit itself or could it be more involved? If I put a new caliper on one side do I have to swap the one on the other, like your suppose to do with rotors and pads? Oh yea, this is a 2004 rubicon D44 axle in my 2000 TJ. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Causes of caliper failure can be many, but usually a ripped or torn boot, poor slides, and excessive heat are the big ones. A sticking pad could overheat the caliper and fry the seals inside. As with most other brake items, I try to replace calipers, wheel cylinders and everything in pairs. I don't think it can cause catastrophic failure by only replacing one, but it might cause a pull or something... I like the sides to be on the same page when it comes to braking force. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 The soft line can also cause a caliper to lock up, with the soft line acting as on one way valve, buy "collapsing" internally. I agree that it's "better" to replace the calipers and rotors as a pair, instead of just one side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 The soft line can also cause a caliper to lock up, with the soft line acting as on one way valve, buy "collapsing" internally. Agree w. Buffalo Bob. :D This actually did happened to me, but on the left front disk on a 96 XJ I had. And the hoses do not have to be replaced in pairs, but I think also that the calipers, pads, and rotors do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 always in pairs :agree: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 OK, I disagree. Pads and rotors yes, but why the calipers? What is the reasoning for this one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 OK, I disagree. Pads and rotors yes, but why the calipers? What is the reasoning for this one? For equal brake biasing to the wheels for one reason. I replaced a sticking right front caliper only on my MJ, reused the same pads, and the front brakes pulled to the left. Replaced the left caliper with one from the same mfg. as the left (Wagner), and the brakes didn't pull anymore. Still squeels when cold though............. :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 If the pistons are the same size, then they should exert equal pressure on the pads. Just because one caliper goes bad, say due to a torn boot, that doesn't automatically mean the other one is also bad. Will it hurt to do both? Absolutely not. I suppose in your case there may have been a difference between the aftermarket caliper and the original? To me that would be like a tech saying that because you have a bad left hub, you should do the right as well. As a dealership tech I changed plenty of calipers and wheel cylinders on one side only with no problems. But it was usually factory parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 If the pistons are the same size, then they should exert equal pressure on the pads. Just because one caliper goes bad, say due to a torn boot, that doesn't automatically mean the other one is also bad. Will it hurt to do both? Absolutely not. I suppose in your case there may have been a difference between the aftermarket caliper and the original? To me that would be like a tech saying that because you have a bad left hub, you should do the right as well. As a dealership tech I changed plenty of calipers and wheel cylinders on one side only with no problems. But it was usually factory parts. Yeah, I'm' sure you're right aemsee. Using factory parts you're relacing apples w. apples. Using aftermarket stuff like Wagner, even though the caliper has the same shell, who knows about the internal rubbers, piston, and spring rate? Anyhoo, it worked for me. But I still have that dayem squeel. Hopefully I'll receive that new caliper bracket from the Windman soon so I can try that........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 If the pistons are the same size, then they should exert equal pressure on the pads. Just because one caliper goes bad, say due to a torn boot, that doesn't automatically mean the other one is also bad. Will it hurt to do both? Absolutely not. I suppose in your case there may have been a difference between the aftermarket caliper and the original? To me that would be like a tech saying that because you have a bad left hub, you should do the right as well. As a dealership tech I changed plenty of calipers and wheel cylinders on one side only with no problems. But it was usually factory parts. Yeah, I'm' sure you're right aemsee. Using factory parts you're relacing apples w. apples. Using aftermarket stuff like Wagner, even though the caliper has the same shell, who knows about the internal rubbers, piston, and spring rate? Anyhoo, it worked for me. But I still have that dayem squeel. Hopefully I'll receive that new caliper bracket from the Windman soon so I can try that........ Have you tried any of the anti squeal stuff? The BG stuff you put on the pad surface always worked well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 Well, I went ahead and replaced both sides with new calipers and rotors. Work much better. I have a feeling that when I replaced the pads that I may have nicked or damaged the caliper trying to get the piston back far enough to get it on. I did notice that the rotors were a tad bit thinner which made installation a lot easier. I was really suprised that the brake pads even after what they went through, showed no difference from side to side. I took them with me to the store and compared them to a new set and there was just the slightest bit of difference so I reused them. After all I did just put them on. I got to say I think I'm sold on the wearever gold pads. Very tough. Thanks for ya'lls input. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 if the caliper on the side not being replaced seems good, and the caliper slides free, fine. for me, with 80% of braking force on the fronts i say replace it. as a former road racer i would always replace both calipers. as i consider brakes the most important thing on a car, racing or not. i am not willing to take a chance on old vs new. i have, in the old days replaced just one wheel cylinder thou. but calipers never will. i always cover the pads with anti squeal juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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